cman1

iTrader: (1)

anybody runnin this shortie header on your 1st gen? how do you like it? fitment?leaks? pro's and con's....

cman1

iTrader: (1)

really...no-one?

cman1

iTrader: (1)

alrightythen....

83pingpong

Nice deal, and looks compact and those pipes sure look like they are all the same length...



So is long pipes better (like the LCE header)? If so...Why? I like the idea of having one pipe dropping down from the engine compartment.

Hedman website takes you to 39406, but 39400 seems to be the same thing?

This is NOT compatible with smog (EGR) components, but most people block off those anyway. In fact, you have to buy extra plates to block off for LCE header (just $15). ANYONE here installed one of these?

HighLux

Isnt it brand new? As in just out? I saw something about a new shorty lately.

83pingpong

cman posted (OP) in June. Hedman part number 39400 seems to be the black version. If you follow the look up for first gen at the Hedman website, it takes you to the High Temp Ceramic coated version (#39406-available for over $450). But Summit, Jegs, ebay all show the black version OK for first gen too. Less than $200 is a good price. I wonder about the build quality, and the flange fit.

Hedman does not seem to offer any piping downstream of the header, and the photo shows NO Ports for EGR. If that's true, it won't pass inspection in California, that's for sure.

I like the compact bend, and I also like the idea of having one single downpipe to deal with passing between the frame and bell housing. But you'd have to bend and weld your own, or pay someone to do it. LCE doesn't even list a first gen system (besides the header).

So who makes/sells a 2-1/2" exhaust system from the catalytic converter back (first gen)?

catfish21

iTrader: (1)

Doug thorley try y can't go wrong

catfish21

iTrader: (1)

[IMG][/IMG]

cman1

iTrader: (1)

hmmmm,i ended up getting an new stainless OBX for 149.00.welded up the air tubes,thick gasket and seems to be workin pretty good.

Bingle

I had a set of hedmans that looked just like the black one pictured. It was garbage. Kept blowing out the collector gasget, couldn't get it to seal right, and the flange on the collector end broke/tore off after only maybe 2 years. Don't waste your time/money. Junk.
Sorry Cman1, I'd have posted this when you did your O.P. if I'd seen it.
After those I got a set of NWOR tri-y headers that I've had on for more than 10years and 100K miles. They're still in great shape and I've had no problems with them. They look similar to the D.T. ones above and work great.

83pingpong

If the downpipe clamp that bolts to the bell housing is not modified and used to firmly secure the downpipe, the downpipe flange on the header will flex constantly. This is the most common cause for downpipe flange gasket failure on shorties, and eventually, flange weld failure.

I'll bet the flange works fine if you make sure the downpipe is pinned securely. Another trick I've seen is to mount a stainless FLEX section at the end of the downpipe to REALLY protect the flange from getting torqued. Have you watched your engine flex under load? It is pretty extreme. It is even worse if you offroad or climb. I am not surprised.

A shorty is especially prone to damage like this. The long headers don't suffer as much if the downpipe is not secured.

I wouldn't bash Hedman so casually. Maybe you had a bad experience, but they make excellent headers.

catfish21

iTrader: (1)

I have a question when I installed my header my bracket was missing from the bellhousing can you get that any where or am I out of luck

83pingpong

Mine was there when I bought my truck (230k miles), but the pipe tab was broken off. Even stock pipes flex pretty severely.

I'll probably have to fab one to replace it. I'll make if BEEFIER! Hard to imagine getting a stock replacement, and they are apparently flimsy! And a custom aftermarket mounting tab (if available) will be for an aftermarket pipe and may not fit your setup anyway.

The downpipe clamp not only protects the lower flange on the header, but also protects the header itself, and the exhaust flange on the block (bolts) from the stress from flexing. I'll definitely make one when I install a header.

Bingle

OK, I may have been a bit harsh, but my experience with the headman was not good. The tubes and collector flange were pretty thin guage (vs higher end headers). They might be fine for the money, but there are far superior options out there for a little more money. My drivers seat dyno found that my 22R liked the tri-y header design better than the Headman 4-1 also. I've run both and that's my experience.

83pingpong

Yup..it is a low priced header. I might get one, because I am on a tight budget, and lots to do on the truck.

The tri-Y design is actually what the OEM cast iron exhaust manifold and dual down pipe do, except OEM is narrow diameter, by comparison. I was impressed when I saw that Toyota had bothered to make the exhaust manifold a real tuned 4 into 2, with dual downpipes joining some distance from the manifold. That OEM design is very good for low end torque.

I thought the Hedman was at least 16 gauge steel. That's not bad. Thin walled radiate more heat and oxidize faster (and they are louder). Maybe wrapping them would be a good idea. It would extend their life and keep the engine bay a little cooler by those brake lines and stuff.

cman1

iTrader: (1)

this is what i got, OBX11338.just welded air holes up and used a 22r gasket,seems to be working really good after 7 months.

83pingpong

DT 4:2:1 makes contorted bends to make sure the headpipes are equal length, AND sticking to the 1:4 and 2:3 into 2, then 2:1 which is just plain the best configuration for 1,3,2,4 firing order. The pulses on the 1.4 pipe(s) and 3,4 pipe(s) are evenly spaced, and the extractor effect at the 2 to 1 connection (third Y) is maintained. This is VERY important for true extractor effect. Sure looks wierd, like Akropovic pipes for 4 cyl bikes

Hedman has a spiral (counterclockwise) pulse, which is the best you can do with 4 into 1, whereas the OBX is also spiral pulses (clockwise in this case). But, even with the bends, OBX 3 and 4 seem shorter than 1, and maybe 2. The Hedman headpipes are so short it is hard to tell.

I see an OBX for 179 on ebay. That is an excellent price for a stainless pipe. Unfortunately, Christmas is too close and I will just have to wait no matter what I decide

cman1

iTrader: (1)

i actually got mine for $149.00 free shipping.ill try and post a pic on the truck...im at work right now sooooo.

83pingpong

I am SERIOUSLY considering using the stock exhaust manifold, and fab a dual downpipe. There's a good reason to do this... First, the stock exhaust supports good lower rpm torque. Second, you can get lower exhaust pressure by sequentially opening up to larger diameter as you step down the system.

A 2" dual downpipe system, collecting into a 2 1/2" exhaust system could be a good way to get some higher rpm HP while preserving low rpm torque.

In fact, you can keep 1:4, and 2:3 isolated by making a dual exhaust system. This is the way a 4 into 2 system is handled for motorcycles, and for good reason. You maintain the true extraction benefits, and very low exhaust pressure at higher rpm. You can even stick with 2" and still keep high rpm exhaust pressures low.

It would be tricky getting pipes bent to go back to a dual exhaust, but it would sound good and would probably be just as powerful as a 4 into 1 if the carb is jetted for it...minor weight penalty.

johnyisthedevil

somebody asked if it was a new design. it isn't. I used one on a 83 I built back in 98/99ish. it was a new design then. that truck was body dropped and full a ride. webber side drafts and the whole nine. I chose it because it was a shorty design with one down pipe and the tubes didn't drop below the frame rails, and also because it blocked the smog ports. it is typical quality of American brands(ie. not very high end) but it was nice enough especially for the money. the gaskets that it came with were crappy and blew out quickly. nothing a good quality set didn't fix. I attached the down pipe(which I had to fab) to the bell housing with a simple bracket and regular old u-bolt style clamp and put a flex joint just past the bell housing where I could tuck it up tight. never had any issues with it cracking or blowing out gaskets or flange separation. and let me tell you I drove the piss out of that truck. regularly "dragging" for long stretches. never had any issues except for the paint burning off within 5 min of first start.

as for power gains...couldn't tell ya. it was definitely better than stock, but was never dyno'd and hard to tell what was making what difference. I can tell you that that truck hauled ass and was very surprisingly torquey.
bottom line... would I buy another? sure I'm actually considering it right now. wish there was a stainless version though. hope this answers some questions with some real world experience.