4x4taco

I've had my truck since this summer and I'm past ready to lift it. I was hoping for some advice and from browsing the threads, you guys seem to know your stuff.

I want to put a 3-3.5" lift so I can run 33x10.5s on the stock rims (15x7). I was originally set on the 3" Cornfed lift, but now I'm starting to look at some other options too. (Also, does anyone have any input on the Cornfed lift?)

After I began to think about it (which can cause a lot of trouble and delays for technical people) I realized that I put a lot of miles on my truck and even with the diff drop, the CVs might have an excessive amount of wear because the majority of the miles are 75+mph highway cruising.

Now I'm starting to look at some of the Old Man Emu kits, perhaps in combination with a spacer so I can run the 33s, or maybe a smaller spacer (2 or 2.5") in conjunction with a 1 inch body lift.

I wish I had the money to buy Sway-a-aways, but I can't afford them right now, maybe someday. I know there are plenty of spacers on the market and I was wondering what you guys would reccomend for my situation.

I know that the TRD coils are progressive and I've heard that they ride really stiff with spacers so thats why I was looking at the OME kits or maybe just a set of non-TRD coils with a linear spring rate.

Then there's the rear suspension. I need the extra payload capacity of an AAL to reduce sagging with my topper and gear. But I know that AAL make the ride a lot stiffer. I know Deaver makes progressive AALs but I know nothing about them (read: pleae give advice). How would it work to combine a small shackle lift and small AAL?

One final quick one, how do I know what new shock length I need for the rear after lifting?

I know this was long, but thanks a lot guys!

4x4taco

One more thing, since I'm pretty new to this, I think it might be easier for me to buy a kit instead of individual parts, so if anyone knows some kits, that would be great.

And if people know about the OME kits, please educate me, I've heard good things about them but do now know about them.

I am also going to be getting a TJM bumper so that might need to be compensated for too....

Thanks again!

newheeler

Have you searched for the answer to your questions? These questions are regularly addressed on here and on customtacos and TTORA.

TacoBell

To start with, you are going to have a hard time with 33's and just a couple inches of lift. They will rub like crazy. My friend has a 2001 with his SAW's cranked to the max, and they are Tundra valved, and runs 33's and he still rubs. He wants to go to 32's when these wear out.
Since you are worried about excessive CV wear, you wont want to go more than about 2-2.5 inches, and that limits you to 32's. Your best bet is still an adjustable lift like the SAW's, Fabtech, or something similar. That way you can go higher in the future if you want, or keep them low however long you want. Save your money and do it right the first time rather than spending $300 now and having to spend $800-$900 again later for another lift.

4x4taco

yeah, they probably have been addressed a lot, sorry about that, I'll go back and look

Tacoma Dude

http://www.customtacos.com

set up a FAQ for Tacoma lifts. I'm not on my home computer right now and don't have the bookmark but I'll see if I can find it and post it up.

Tacoma Dude

Here it is:

http://www.customtacos.com/tech/inde...v2&id=137&c=10

4x4taco

I think my question came off wrong....I know about all of the lifts, I've done plenty of research about all of them and know the pros and cons, mods that have to be done to accomodate lifts (cutting the crossmember for drop bracket types), and how they effect wear on the truck.

I was looking more for input from people running the different types of lifts and what they thought and what their individual advice is. So any input would be appreciated. And thanks to those who have answered.

3.4v6

i have an 01 pre-runner with the 3 inch cornfed lift. it was stiff at first but putting 33's on there softened up the ride a bit. cornfed lift would be a cheap but efficient way to go if you wanna save some money. im satisfied with my 3 inch cornfed, but what else can i do with a pre-runner.

Bighead

You really need to check the TTORA National Forums. This question comes up at least once per day there.

Napoleon047

just take a sawzall to the fenders. that way you can clear your 33's and still have stock cv angles. plus your COG isnt as high.

but seriously, when it comes to fitting tires, the width and the rim backspacing is just as important. your choice of the 10.5 wide model is a good one because it will clear better than a 12.5. if you use a rim that has stock backspacing, you should easily be able to clear it with a lift prescribed for 32's (32x11.5 and 33x10.5 create the same turning arc)

GRNTACO

I put the OME lift on my 2001 2.7L standard cab. I used 881's up front with the comfort shocks and the 15 A and B leafs in the rear with comfort shocks. I removed the 3rd leaf down and a over load in leafs. I am running 33X10.5 on my stock 15X7 alloy wheels. The tires rub on the frame but not much at full lock. They don't rub anywhere else under full compression. Now the rear is giving me some problems. Since the OME leafs move the rear axle forward about a 1/2'' the tires rub on the front part of the rear fender. I plan to cut this out and put the fender flare back on. I can't seem to get the tires to stuff far enough in the wheel wells to rub inside the well. I was thinking I may need a bump stop that is 1'' longer to prevent this. If you want to see pics let me know. I hope this helps.

4x4taco

yeah, thanks that does help. Pictures would be great because I'm still trying to decide whether to go with 33x10.5 or 32x11.5s on the stock rims. I know the OME kit comes with some trim packers that add a little bit more lift and I could always go with a 1/5" shackle in the rear. I think I might go with the 33s and if it does rub, I will probably put on a 1" body lift for the extra clearance. And you were saying that the front don't rub except a little at full turning lock and the rear only rub at full stuff with the 33s?

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Running a 2" or so suspension lift and a 1" body lift is one option to fit those tires, at least on stock rims:

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...it.shtml#FAQ10

Here's a picture of 33x10.50s on stock 15x6 rims on my 4Runner:



If you lift the front 2" or higher, you can install a 1" diff. drop. kit to lower the CV angles:

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/DiffDrop.shtml

4x4taco

thanks, it was actually your body lift i was looking at to add to the truck. and i think thats the combo i am going to go with

4cedRunner

If you want to run 33x10.5's believe it or not you don't really need to do anything, We ran that exact tire on our '96 4x4 Tacoma stock with no rubbing. 33x12.5's is not gonna work. Worst case scenario you might have to trim a bit of inner fender plastic if your truck has any. As far as the actual lift, If you want to keep the truck stock width and get the best performance out of it. I fully recommend this setup.

* Donahoe Bolt-In Coil-Overs (Front) http://www.kartek.com/prod-windows/t...oma-dre-co.htm These are the best coil-overs yet for Tacos/4Runners, because they have more oil capacity and are dialed to have exactly as much travel as the other susp. components can handle.

* Total Chaos Uni-Ball Upper A-Arms http://www.kartek.com/prod-windows/t...tundra-uca.htm These arms have the perfect geometry for a truck with about 2" of lift, they will allow you to re-gain the droop-travel lost by lifting the truck with coil-overs.

* Donahoe/Deaver Bolt In 1.5" Lift Leaf Spring Pack http://www.kartek.com/products/truck...p/rearsusp.htm This replacment pack has 5 or 6 leaves as opposed to the 3 stock leaves and is tuned to be more progressive and therefore less harsh but still has the same load capacity..

* Donahoe/Bilstein 7100 rear shocks and mounts. This kit will be available in less than a month, the shocks are being custom valved by Bilstein for the Tacoma application. It includes custom lower U-Bolt plates that have a new shock mount allowing the use of a slightly longer shock. The Bilstein 7100 is an affordable piggy-back shock that will match the performance of the Donahoe front bolt-in Coil-overs perfectly. Dylan fron Donahoe is running this setup on his 4 door Tacoma with 35x12.5's and fiberglass fenders/bedside, he also slightly clearanced the lower corner of the firewall to clear the tire. His truck sits about 2" over stock on 35's! It looks awesome. call Tim at Donahoe (714-632-3033) for more info about their product line, tell him Sean from Trails Less Traveled http:www.trailslesstraveled.com sent ya. Good Luck!

4x4taco

Thanks guys, I decided to go with an OME 882 kit and a 1" RB body lift and diff drop. It's all been ordered and I can't wait till it gets here. 33s to follow....

rngrchad

post some pictures when you get'r all setup.

4x4taco

i got it all installed this weekend and it turned out real nice. it's a good 3" of lift from the OME, but it's still on the stock 31s and i know they need to be replaced! in about two weeks, i'm getting the 33s and the body lift here. i posted the pics at an rti ramp i found on one of the other boards, but here is the link

"rti ramp"