wimpywade94

hey all, anyone have anything good or bad to say about the superlift stage 1? i can pick one up for 600 to my door off ebay and think im gonna do it. any help is appreciated, thanks
wade

Los Gatos?

Well from what I understand the best lift for the IFS trucks is the superlift stage 2 with welded a arms (I think that's what it is) I know that doesn't help you...but if you're really looking for some articulation, that's the way to go.

wimpywade94

how much articulation and whats the cost difference? i planned on using a stage one and a travel kit from i think its bulldog motorsports or something like that.

you think that would work?

thanks
wade

Bean

I just put that same kit from ebay on my truck. It's a brand new kit from an online retailer (I'll check the name of the company if you want, you'll probablt recognize it - I did).

When you say stage two, I assume you mean the addition of the optional kicker bars. They are an option no matter who you buy from and the base kit comes drilled to accept the parts, which can be installed later.

The kit went on fine and seems pretty beefy. The following has nothing to do with where you buy it from but... Be aware that the new crossmembers are not tapped for the stock skid plate even though the instructions say it can be re-used. I re-hung mine off some brackets I attached to the stock crossmember bolt holes (i can throw up a picture if you want).

Also be aware that you will have to cut the passenger side crossmember hanger to get the differential to drop into the new bracket - make sure to cut BETWEEN the holes, leaving the hole closer to the tire intact and keep the tabs you cut off. This way a return to stock will require a welder, not a major frame repair.

The factory hard brake lines at the wheel will NOT fit around the new drop bracket. They will need to be gently reshaped or new ones will need to be bent and installed.

Final note - the geometry of the new bracket lowering the wheel from the ball joint will require MAJOR adjustments to the steering linkage. I had to have a shop do that work for me cause I ruined the outer tie rods while trying to 'force' them back into place. This also ment that I needed to have it towed because the front tires were pointed different directions.... MAJOR ALINGEMENT will probably be needed.

I learned alot from the install, but I'll never do it again. It took 3 of us 27 hours and I still had to get the shop to re-do the tie rods.

If I can be of any assistance just let me know.

wimpywade94

yeah you helped out alot, im gonna go ahead and get the kit on ebay around july 9th or so, and im not doing the work myself, gonna have a shop do it, figure its worth the couple hundred extra! anyways thanks for the help, dont plan on using my stock skid plate anyways so not a biggie for me! thanks again

wade

Bean

Having done it, I'd agree - but if you haven't already, you may want to check around on install pricing.

My local offroad shop wanted $750 for the basic install, $125 for the alignment and that didn't include the new tie rods or labor to install them or modify them (mine had to be cut 5/16's inner and outer on both sides). His price also did not include the brake line work. Mine would have easily hit $1,600 just for the install. But that includes what I spent on complete new Toyota tie rod assemblies, if your lucky, you'll be able to adjust yours far enough or just need new outer ends. Mine were shot!

Have fun and take it easy around the corners after the install, the extra height really added to my lean.

wimpywade94

checked with les schwabs, they dont do that, neither does anywhere else around here!!! but oh well, ill just do it myself, i have a friend thats going to school to become an automotive engineer, hes good with that stuff, he said he'll come and help.

hey cant be that hard, can it? oh well!

heres how i plan on doing it,

1st

then
then
then get a new truck!!!

laterz

wade

Bean

You can do it yourself if you can get up the courage. One helper is great, I had 2 and we just kept getting in each others way.

Prepare yourself!
Measure from floor to frame just behind the sway bar mounts and make sure your jack stands are at least 4 inches taller.

Have at least one extra scissors jack, light and easy to adjust. You wont lift much weight with it but I needed one to push things into alignment many times.

Buy/borrow a good tie rod puller and ball joint puller. Dont use pickle forks unless you are prepared to replace the tie rod ends and ball joints.

Make sure you have a full set of metric sockets (regular AND deep wall). Make sure you have a 27 mm socket to remove the bolt on the bottom of the ball joint. Make sure you have a long breaker bar that will slide over your socket wrench. Mine was almost 4 feet and I needed much of that leverage. Make sure you are prepared to replace the brake lines with longer ones (mine were way too short to use the relaction brackets) get some extra hard lines and a bender per my earlier warning. Not hard to do at all it you have the tools and they are not expensive. Finally - make sure you have alternate transportation. Mine took a long time and I still had to have it towed because of the tie rods not working out right.

Edit... You will also need a larger than standard cresent wrench to put the bolt back on the ball joint and knuckle adapter as the sockets will not fit back in there once the bolts are in place.

You will probably also need a grinder and a sawzall.

Go the the superlift website and print out the directions and memorize them and realize they don't cover everything.

Good luck and happy wrenching.

Feel free to PM or post questions. I'd be happy to answer anything I can.