Front brake setup for 3rd gen - Already searched
#1
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Front brake setup for 3rd gen - Already searched
I already have the Tundra setup and have been very happy w/ this for the past year or so. I've wanted to add SS lines when I did the setup but ran out of time to finding a set. Also, the Raybestos pads I received w/ the Tundra calipers work great but squeel like crazy when they're cold. I'm tired of this so here are my questions:
1. Since I'll be changing pads, I've read good things on this board about Hawk and Acebono pads. It seems like the Acebono pads get the most hits and people seem to be very happy with them. For those w/ either sets of pads, can you comment on noise and dust?
2. When I swap the pads, I'll also do the SS lines. I figure I should change out the brake fluid while I'm at it. Has anyone went with the ATE Super Blue brake fluid. I only found one post on this but the individual didn't post results. Is this just a waste of money? It didn't seem like it was that expensive but I don't know what brake fluid normally costs. A bottle of this stuff at PP was $15 but I have a buddy that works there so I think it'll be cheaper for me. Any thoughts?
3. Lastly, while I'm at the front brakes, besides adjusting the rears and proper bleeding, any other tips/mods/etc?
Thanks.
1. Since I'll be changing pads, I've read good things on this board about Hawk and Acebono pads. It seems like the Acebono pads get the most hits and people seem to be very happy with them. For those w/ either sets of pads, can you comment on noise and dust?
2. When I swap the pads, I'll also do the SS lines. I figure I should change out the brake fluid while I'm at it. Has anyone went with the ATE Super Blue brake fluid. I only found one post on this but the individual didn't post results. Is this just a waste of money? It didn't seem like it was that expensive but I don't know what brake fluid normally costs. A bottle of this stuff at PP was $15 but I have a buddy that works there so I think it'll be cheaper for me. Any thoughts?
3. Lastly, while I'm at the front brakes, besides adjusting the rears and proper bleeding, any other tips/mods/etc?
Thanks.
#4
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I just ordered a set of the 199mm calipers and I plan on getting some OEM pads. Mainly cause I want something that wont squeel and will last a good amount of time.
As for fluid I recently flushed out all the factory fluid and replaced it with the prestone synthetic stuff. It was cheap and the difference in pedal feel is like night and day now.
Not to hi-jack your thread, but what is the advantage of SS lines and where did you pick yours up at?
As for fluid I recently flushed out all the factory fluid and replaced it with the prestone synthetic stuff. It was cheap and the difference in pedal feel is like night and day now.
Not to hi-jack your thread, but what is the advantage of SS lines and where did you pick yours up at?
#5
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Originally Posted by vegaskurt
Not to hi-jack your thread, but what is the advantage of SS lines and where did you pick yours up at?
#6
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I just recently started running the Akebono pads with Brembo rotors. I'd have to say I noticed a fairly significant difference in braking power. Makes me wish I got the slotted rotors. As for dust and dirt, they seem to do well, although I can't i've noticed a difference from stock. The design of the pad is better for dust, where each side of it is angled instead of meeting the rotor with a flat face. As for noise, no difference that I have noticed, but I have not run them in cold weather yet.
A tip I have, when I tried to take the bolt off of the clip that holds the break line, I snapped the head off the bolt (12mm I think), if your's doesn't come off easy, try to heat it up/pb blaster it/ and use an impact gun.
Last a scary thing that happened to me, after reattaching the calipers to the car and torqueing to specs, after about 100 miles, all 4 bolts holding the calipers were loose, one was almost falling out (which was rattleing, and the reason I checked in the first place) I retorqued them to MY specifications, and cranked them down... working fine now.
A tip I have, when I tried to take the bolt off of the clip that holds the break line, I snapped the head off the bolt (12mm I think), if your's doesn't come off easy, try to heat it up/pb blaster it/ and use an impact gun.
Last a scary thing that happened to me, after reattaching the calipers to the car and torqueing to specs, after about 100 miles, all 4 bolts holding the calipers were loose, one was almost falling out (which was rattleing, and the reason I checked in the first place) I retorqued them to MY specifications, and cranked them down... working fine now.
Last edited by ilikesoup; 07-20-2006 at 08:40 AM.
#7
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Originally Posted by ilikesoup
Last a scary thing that happened to me, after reattaching the calipers to the car and torqueing to specs, after about 100 miles, all 4 bolts holding the calipers were loose, one was almost falling out (which was rattleing, and the reason I checked in the first place) I retorqued them to MY specifications, and cranked them down... working fine now.
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#8
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I did a writeup on the SS line installation...It's HERE in the tech section.
I would not know about the uber cool brake fluids. Have not tried these yet but I would be interested in your results.
I would not know about the uber cool brake fluids. Have not tried these yet but I would be interested in your results.
#9
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Originally Posted by MTL_4runner
I like to use Loctite on those caliper bolt just as insurance against exactly what you mention.
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I actually have a set of Hawk pads sitting in the box at home. Just haven't put them on yet. I hope there better than the PF pads. I don't have much in the way of stopping power with them.
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