ok. i searched. and still nothing. i keep finding bad/mixed reviews.

...Mr. Alternator is unreliable
...rewinding alternators doesnt help much
...Dominick Iraggi is unreliable

the only one ive found that seems decent is Ohio Generator. i emailed them, but i dunno what their prices are...

anyways, what are some other options or preferences? i have no idea what i should be looking for really. im thinking i need around 120 amps +/- 20. im running a stereo and my speakers cut out, my lights dim, etc.

im on a tight budget. i have lots of other things on my list of mods, so the more money i can save, the better.

sorry if this has been covered before, ive never been a very good researcher

 

have u tried a capacitor on ur system? those are supposed to help. High output alternators are expensive, and IMO i would ditch the subs and amp, cause everyone ive ever known that had them (including myself) has always had trouble out of them. Just speakers and a head unit make good enough sound, unless ur goin for some sound system competition nonsense.....I thought about a big alternator, but idk....too rich for my blood.

 

Hey man,

I would get a 5-farad capacitor from Metra. They make some AWESOME products man! I've got a 2-farad in my 2nd gen and I wish I had gotten a 5-farad. I'm going to be doing a bigger system in my new Runner so I orderd the 10-farad...but that might be a little overkill for you...but for the price difference you may want to decide that. I'm not sure what the MSRP is on those but they aren't "cheap" but I'm pretty sure they are nothing compared to a HO alt. I get them at a discount from my buddy who works for Circuit City.

Hope that helps you man!

How many overall watts are you running by the way? I can't remember right now but do you already have an upgrade battery/wiring?

Fink

 

i could spend $200-$300 on a capacitor, or fix the problem for good with an alternator for the same price or a little more

running around 200 watts RMS to speakers... and another 480 RMS to the speakers

 

I'm not real sure that the alternator is your problem...I had an aftermarket one on my old 2nd gen and my lights still dimmed, I just think its the sudden drop in voltage from the system that makes it do that and a cap will fix that for sure.

But if you really think its the alt. then I'm definitely the wrong guy to ask about that. I am getting ready to upgrade all my wiring and stuff and then I'll be doing my system, so based on what you find I may be getting a different alternator if you can find a good one!

Fink

EDIT: With that little amount of wattage...I would say a 2-farad may even work for you. Do you have an Optima or equivalent upgraded battery...my system wouldn't even work that great on my other battery.

 

yeah i have an optima red top. i forgot to mention, i was quoted $295 + shipping by excessiveamperage.com for a 180 amp alt. have not heard much about them though.

 

That is f'ing expensive! I would wait for some more people to chime in but I really don't think its your alternator. I had over 2000w of power in my setup with my stock alternator, yellow top, 2 gauge wire and a 2-farad cap and i didnt have nearly the problems you are describing. With the cap at full charge and with my subs hitting at about 70% of their power my lights dimmed a tiny bit, it was barely noticeable...at full bump there was a noticeable dim but nothing to the point of not being able to see.

I would just hate to see you upgrade your alternator and spend about 300 bucks and then have the same problem occur. Caps are so easy to install, get one, if it doesn't solve it then send it back. Alternators are harder to do that with.

Just my pennies as usual though,

Fink

 

You might try going to a thicker guage wire on the charging system going to the battery. Try these caps out http://www.batcap.net/ ......if you are only running 680 watts then I'd say do a wire upgrade because that really isn't much at all! Or maybe your current alternator is getting weak...

 

Thats what I was sayin, bump up the charging wire and then see what that does for you. If that doesn't do anything get your alternator checked out, if its going bad just get you a stock one and that should solve all your problems.

If that doesn't do it, make sure you are running the right gauge wire to your system too. I would just go with 4 ga., thats what I run on all my systems no matter what wattage I've got just to be safe and to allow for expansion.

Hope all this hels you out man,

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I have a 180 amp alt in my 4R.
Maybe look for a wrecking yard locally or online.

I can run everything (heated seats, stereo, air on full blast, lights, 150x2 watts KC aux lights, 100 watts each for the fogs all on at once)
and lights will not dim.

 

I used to run around 1700 watts RMS Capacitor is only a band aid unfortunately, top solution is always HO alternator, BUT I threw a redtop under the hood and a yellow top in the back running parallel and it stopped all diming.

http://www.sounddomain.com/ride/186602

 

Well I guess I just had one he!! of a beefy alternator cause I never had any problems with my setup...however, I do think that trying a capacitor first before a new alternator is the best idea. Try it, if it doesn't solve anything then just send it back and go from there.

Fink

 

They do have a writeup on i think...offroad.com that goes thru upgrading your stock 60 amp to a 90 amp alternator by changing the stator in it. 90 amps would be plenty for a system of that size and maybe a little bigger.

 

here are a couple of links that might help out,

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12253

http://www.excessiveamperage.com/

http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homep...tt/elect27.htm

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...dual+batteries

this is something im researching now, i just had a 160 amp alt installed thursday. it came out of an es300 lexus, the only customizing needed was the lower bracket where the bottom bolt attaches.

maybe you should consider a trip up my way, with a core, it was 200$. nice vacation and lots to see around here!

lee

 

So is the stuff about Mr. Alternator not being reliable true? My buddy has had his on his Tahoe for years and he loves it...I was thinking of going this route when I get my system all set up but maybe not.

Fink

 

Mr. Alternator....*sigh*

I put my 150amp in last September, and since then I've had in and out 3 times due to failure. Brushes are cheap, and I can install the unit in 10 minutes or less- but that much failure is unacceptable in my book. Mr. Alternator doesn't warrant the brushes, either.

However, when it's working....all of my electrical problems are solved. The lights DO NOT dim when the bass hits anymore.

I say do it right, find a good alt (120amp Yota Alt?) and THEN tackle the Cap if it still isn't enough.

 

Well looks like my ideas are gettin shot down! LoL.

All I can say is from my experience...caps have fixed all my probs.

Hey gapguy, do you know what the amperage is on a 3rd gen alternator?

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If you care, mine is 180.



From what I learned in electrical class, and some here, a small alt that is rewound to provide more amps will not last as long as a larger unit.

Same principal as running 2, say 100 amp alts, instead of 1 large 200 amp alt will be more reliable.

Rewinding an alt will "stress" it causing it to burn out faster.
So going with a larger (what will fit) alt will be better off.

 

70 amps!

 

Wow, thats pretty puny. Well now my search for a HO alternator has begun, lol.

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