cackalak han

It might at first, but if you take it step by step, it's really is pretty straight forward. Just make sure you have all of the tools, so you're not running back and forth from the parts store---especially the 35mm socket.

I do not have a huge auto mechanics knowledge, but I was able to do this with ease. The most difficult part is trying to take out/put in the half-shaft from the diff (transmission in my case with Hondas). They can be stubborn.

Nuthuts96

iTrader: (1)

I didn't know exactly how to do it...really wouldn't have a clue, as i haven't done any cv joints yet, but now reading that walkthrough, i can understand the process more. thanks for the link. it almost inspires me to do it now...maybe just a badly needed oil change will suffice for now

icerunner

Dude I learned that there is no easy job... Im assahmed to say that I spent 2 freek'in hours replacing SWAY LINKS the other night...(Rusted nuts/bolts)


Remove the old boot after disassembly, clean thourally and then repack the hell out of the CV with Grease..and then slide the new boot on and clamp it down with new clamps...

and then hope for the best...HA!

wormhole

Now I'm $297 poorer. Only one side needed to be replaced and they wanted to replace the shaft but talked them out of it.

BIC performance

Any installed an aftermarket high angle inner boot?, I think Marlin has them. Ever scince i did my SS lift my inner boot has been spitting grease, but there are no holes or tears, its just coming out the big end.

GSGALLANT

Is that with the diff drop installed? Reason I ask is that I haven't had any problems with mine since I installed my SS #1.2 lift, but I have heard of others that have. Did you set the front to 2" or 2.5"? If you set it at 2.5", do you have a heavy aftermarket skidplate and belly pan, or just the stock skid plate? What about aftermarket bumper and/or sliders? If you don't have any of that, the front of your truck is probably sitting up higher than the lift is designed to put it (which would give you higher CV angles)

hillbillydeelux

if you guys keep messin those up try droppin your diff like 3inches with spacers it wont hag below the skid and the angles are less severe

GSGALLANT

With a 1" diff drop, the stock skid plate doesn't fit back up into it's stock location on a 3rd gen 4Runner (after a few mini-grinder mods, it gets pretty close though)... I can't imagine trying a 3" diff drop.

scuba

Deff going to bookmark that link.


I too also figured that when its time to do the boots, might as well just put new shafts in it too.

BIC performance

Yes thats with the 1" diff drop, I was going to go with a bigger diffdrop, but I didnt want the mounts to hang below the crossmember/ skid plate. I may try to add another .25-.5". I have the front set at the 2.5" and stock bumpers. I will be making some sliders, and hopefully skids this winter.

Randy

Ohio4R

Check out allprooffroad.com they have long travel boots there.

GSGALLANT

That's probably your problem. Steve recommends setting the lift at 2" if you have two out of three of (Steel front bumper, Sliders, Heavy skids), and setting it at 2.5" if you have all three. You don't have any, and have set it at the highest recommended setting. I'm not surprised that your CV angles would be higher.

BIC performance

Yes I do also notice that I "top out" the shocks when it bounces. I should have the Armor on there soon.

hross14

The boots on the NAPA axles are more pliable and have larger bellows. I used to have problems with my axles leaking grease after my SS#7 lift but since i put in the new axles it hasnt been a problem.

Dare44

The "toyota axles are stronger" comment i highly disagree with. I have blown both the toyota axles into little tiny pieces out on the trail. I actually kept some of the pieces for laughs. I have blown up one Autozone lifetime warranty one and that Napa one has not had any problems. I really wish I had the time and money to sas it but replacing these is not hard. Napa came in at $90 bucks for the new axle, and it always takes me 45 mins to replace the axle and do my brake pads... cuz i do these at the same time. anyway to the guys that don't know how to do it i recommend if u wheel to go out in your garage and tear it apart and put it back together cuz you will inevitably break one on the trail and I would hate to try to learn to do it there. And if the boot tears just replace the axle unless you trust yourself to get every speck of dirt out, or enjoy doing it twice

O and I HATE CV's BTW

cackalak han

While you're under there, try to see what they're talking about in that link. When it comes time for you to do it, it will seem a lot more clearer if you've already looked at everything.

Sway bar links, use some PB Blaster on the bolts (try to soak it overnight) and a breaker bar.

Exactly why I always just replace the whole axle. I mean, they're LIFETIME warranty axles. That means you won't have to spend another dime on that axle. OTOH, each time you tear a boot, you're out $20 or whatever that cost is. Plus it's a messy job with the grease and cleaning. And you're going to have to take the axle off anyway to do a thorough cleaning job. Never made sense to me why people did the repack. Unless they were really hard up on cash.

GSGALLANT

I think you answered it best yourself when you said you have to take the axle out everytime regardless. We can do a lot of boot replacements for the price of your new axle. My 4Runner stock axles went 90000 miles before my first boot went. I'm just over 105000 miles now on the clock, and I've only had to rebuilt each CV axle once.

cackalak han

A lot of boot replacements means what? $90 for the axle and $20 for boot is 4 boot replacements. 4 ripped boots = new axle. I will say that boots usually don't rip too often, but it does happen and can happen more than once. THEN count in the fact that your joint COULD go anyway. Then you're out $20 or $40 more, if you count the cost of boots you've already replaced and a new axle.

I thought we've already said our peace. It is a higher risk to put in a replacement boots vs. a new axle. Your repacked axle CAN last a long time, or maybe not. Yours lasted 90k miles. I've had mine rip at 40k miles. You seem like a knowledgable guy and has all the necessary tools for proper rebuilding or whatnot, and can tell the condition of the joint just by looking at it. I'm just an average Joe-Schmoe. For ME, I'm not willing to take that chance. I'd trust a new axle more than a repacked boot. $70 extra is nothing for a brand new axle with a lifetime warranty.

wormhole

The driver's side inner boot decided to explode today while out wheeling (not really explode but released a massive amount of grease).

Joy more $$ out of my pocket, oh well I'll be keeping someone employed for another day.