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Old 11-23-2008, 11:44 AM
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CV Boots

Both inner cv boots are torn. Crap!!!
Old 11-23-2008, 12:40 PM
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Then stop tearing them!!!!
Old 11-24-2008, 06:21 AM
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Regrease and replace?

Originally Posted by wormhole
Both inner cv boots are torn. Crap!!!
Hey,
Whats involved in replacing these boots....Just "regrease/repack and replace" the boots or is there more to it then that?

Last edited by icerunner; 11-25-2008 at 05:53 AM.
Old 11-24-2008, 06:32 AM
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i would just replace the axles and be done. they are easy to do.....
Old 11-24-2008, 07:35 AM
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Originally Posted by hross14
i would just replace the axles and be done. they are easy to do.....
do you guys still recommend the advance auto lifetime axles or stick with stock? my stock ones have lasted 120k miles so far.. granted i am easy on them but hey i aint complaining..
Old 11-24-2008, 07:49 AM
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I have not had to change out the axle in my Tacoma yet, but on my past race cars, I used NAPA axles.

First, do NOT just replace and repack the boots. Few have gotten away with this, but majority of the time, your axles will snap. Even a tiny bit of dirt that gets in through the tear will chew up the CV joint.

Secondly, Autozone, Advanced Auto, etc. all sell two types of axles. Remanufactured, and brand new. The reman's are a little bit cheaper, BUT numerous people that I know have snapped them in a short amount of time. Some have had them last, but it's really a crap shoot. The price difference is just a few dollars (i.e. for my car, it was $99 for new and $80 for reman--same lifetime warranty). Get the new axle. It really won't matter where you get them, since it was apparent that they were all from the same manufacturer. Just look for the cheapest price and that the place guarantees them for life.
Old 11-24-2008, 08:36 AM
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Originally Posted by cackalak han
First, do NOT just replace and repack the boots. Few have gotten away with this, but majority of the time, your axles will snap. Even a tiny bit of dirt that gets in through the tear will chew up the CV joint.
You shouldn't post bad info that could mislead others. Many people (that have the ability to) will rebuild their stock CV axles when they tear a boot, and it will still outlast many new aftermarket axles. The stock Toyota CV's are hard to beat for quality and durability.

As long as you don't drive for months and months with a badly torn boot that slings all its grease out, the joints will be perfectly fine (an inspection will confirm this when you get it apart and cleaned out.) The key is making sure the joint is well cleaned before you repack it. I also recommend going with OEM boot kits for the repair. I've tried several aftermarket boots and have yet to find one that will outlast a Toyota boot.

It comes down to personal preference as to whether people want to spend the time rebuilding a perfectly good Toyota axle, or spend a bit less time and a bit more money buying aftermarket parts.

Last edited by GSGALLANT; 11-24-2008 at 08:53 AM.
Old 11-24-2008, 09:03 AM
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Originally Posted by GSGALLANT
You shouldn't post bad info that could mislead others. Many people (that have the ability to) will rebuild their stock CV axles when they tear a boot, and it will still outlast many new aftermarket axles. The stock Toyota CV's are hard to beat for quality and durability.

As long as you don't drive for months and months with a badly torn boot that slings all its grease out, the joints will be perfectly fine (an inspection will confirm this when you get it apart and cleaned out.) The key is making sure the joint is well cleaned before you repack it. I also recommend going with OEM boot kits for the repair. I've tried several aftermarket boots and have yet to find one that will outlast a Toyota boot.

It comes down to personal preference as to whether people want to spend the time rebuilding a perfectly good Toyota axle, or spend a bit less time and a bit more money buying aftermarket parts.

How am I posting bad info? First, how many people find out RIGHT when the tear occurs? Even if it's been torn for a few days, you have a good chance of getting dirt in there, especially in a 4WD rigs that we all have, it's more likely to see dirt.

Second, IF the dirt hasn't already torn everything up already, you have to take the axle off and THOROUGHLY clean everything. If you miss a spot, all your efforts were in vain.

Third, just because the axles are OEM, doesn't mean they're bombproof. Many of the reman. axles are OEM. That is why parts stores give you a credit for the core. They take them apart, repack and resell. The problem is, even with those guys cleaning them all out and inspecting them, we still had people snap axles. One guy snapped his 5 times in a year on his daily driver.

For ME, I hate doing axles. I'd rather put in a new one with a lifetime warranty than mess with a used axle that may or may not hold up.
Old 11-24-2008, 09:11 AM
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join the club! my pass. side inner boot has been torn and missing grease for going on 2 years now. my driver's side inner boot tore and is missing grease for about the past 3 months. i'm drivin them til they break. im actually surprised the pass. one has held up in 4wd off road with no grease etc. i can't afford to replace the axles anyway so if it aint broke, i aint fixin it
Old 11-24-2008, 10:20 AM
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Originally Posted by cackalak han
How am I posting bad info? First, how many people find out RIGHT when the tear occurs? Even if it's been torn for a few days, you have a good chance of getting dirt in there, especially in a 4WD rigs that we all have, it's more likely to see dirt.
For people that regularly dunk the lower part of their vehicles in mud or dirty water, I agree. Normal driving on dusty roads, however... you won't get enough dirt getting into a boot tear to cause a problem for a long time (assuming the tear is not large enough to sling all the joint's grease out).

Originally Posted by cackalak han
Second, IF the dirt hasn't already torn everything up already, you have to take the axle off and THOROUGHLY clean everything. If you miss a spot, all your efforts were in vain.
For this, the inner joint is certainly easier than the outer joint, because you can take the inner joint completely apart. It is still quite do-able with the outer joint if you have a pan-full of mineral spirits or varsol. It does take a bit of time (an hour or so) to properly tear down, clean, re-pack, and re-assemble a CV axle.

Originally Posted by cackalak han
Third, just because the axles are OEM, doesn't mean they're bombproof. Many of the reman. axles are OEM. That is why parts stores give you a credit for the core. They take them apart, repack and resell. The problem is, even with those guys cleaning them all out and inspecting them, we still had people snap axles. One guy snapped his 5 times in a year on his daily driver.
I agree. They are not bomb-proof, although I would argue that most of the failures are not caused by dirt in the joints, but rather by turning much larger than stock tires, or by "spinning tires with steering wheel turned to full lock, with wheel intermittently touching the ground as the vehicle bounces while trying to get past an obstacle" type of situations... and I'd rather rebuild my own OEM axles, then buy OEM axles that have been rebuilt by somebody else.

Originally Posted by cackalak han
For ME, I hate doing axles. I'd rather put in a new one with a lifetime warranty than mess with a used axle that may or may not hold up.
I also agree that I hate doing axles... but that's also why I choose to rebuild mine, so that I don't have to replace aftermarket ones more often. I know it's easier to just take the old out and install the new in, but including set up time (placing vehicle on jack stands, getting tools out, etc...), it really only adds about an hour to the job to rebuild it.

There is no right and wrong (this has been debated lots). Just personnal preference.
Old 11-24-2008, 11:17 AM
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I've replaced and repacked my stock axles with new boots and grease... I've never had problems except when I don't have the correct tools to tighten the clamps hard enough and they seep out a little grease, in which I retighten.

Never heard of people snapping axles that much due to repacking?
Old 11-24-2008, 12:37 PM
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Me personally, i would go with Crack--Peice of mind that the thing isnt going to granade when i am out on the trail or even worse--in traffic.

Napa makes a good axles (or at least their manufacturer). From experience, once those boots open--its time to replace. People get away with it--yes, but thats not the 200$ savings i want.
Old 11-24-2008, 08:14 PM
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Up it's heading to Big-O tommorow to get fixed.

Dealer - $680 to replace both inner boots
Big-O - $300 (pep boys and midas where around the same).

Could I do this myself, no. Since I don't have the experience, the tools or space to do so.


I've also heard of breaking the aftermarket CV Joints.
Old 11-25-2008, 04:07 AM
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Originally Posted by wormhole
Could I do this myself, no. Since I don't have the experience, the tools or space to do so.
I've also heard of breaking the aftermarket CV Joints.
Do you have a 35mm socket a 14mm (i think) socket and a prybar?

You can do it then. Its not hard, what are you gonna do when you blow one on the trail?
Old 11-25-2008, 05:37 AM
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Originally Posted by crolison
Do you have a 35mm socket a 14mm (i think) socket and a prybar?

You can do it then. Its not hard, what are you gonna do when you blow one on the trail?
lol if you asked me all that i'd have to say no, yes and no. nothin like bein a poor college kid who can't afford "unordinary" tools right? if i blow one on the trail i'm going to hope whoever i'm with has the tools. guess it's good i can't afford to wheel anymore
Old 11-25-2008, 05:59 AM
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Originally Posted by crolison
Do you have a 35mm socket a 14mm (i think) socket and a prybar?

You can do it then. Its not hard, what are you gonna do when you blow one on the trail?
how do you fix a torn boot?
Old 11-25-2008, 06:58 AM
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Originally Posted by mkgarrison5
how do you fix a torn boot?
I would just pull the cv and swap it for a new one at autozone or advanced.

Originally Posted by drguitarum2005
lol if you asked me all that i'd have to say no, yes and no. nothin like bein a poor college kid who can't afford "unordinary" tools right? if i blow one on the trail i'm going to hope whoever i'm with has the tools. guess it's good i can't afford to wheel anymore
They aren't that much for the socket, you can also go with roughly a 1 3/8 socket for it or a 36mm.

All i need for mine is 10, 12, 14mm sockets, prybar and brass hammer.
Old 11-25-2008, 07:03 AM
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Originally Posted by crolison
I would just pull the cv and swap it for a new one at autozone or advanced.



They aren't that much for the socket, you can also go with roughly a 1 3/8 socket for it or a 36mm.

All i need for mine is 10, 12, 14mm sockets, prybar and brass hammer.
so basically to replace the front axle you take the tire off, take disc and brake assembly off. disconnect brake line and pull out the shaft?
Old 11-25-2008, 07:14 AM
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I haven't done one on my Tacoma, but I can do one on a Honda in less than 30 minutes. You don't have to take off the brakes. Looking at these steps, it's pretty straight forward. No way I'd pay someone that much to do this. Besides, if you're ever on a trail and snap an axle, you aren't left there stranded not knowing what to do.

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/cv_axle/
Old 11-25-2008, 07:30 AM
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Originally Posted by cackalak han
I haven't done one on my Tacoma, but I can do one on a Honda in less than 30 minutes. You don't have to take off the brakes. Looking at these steps, it's pretty straight forward. No way I'd pay someone that much to do this. Besides, if you're ever on a trail and snap an axle, you aren't left there stranded not knowing what to do.

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/cv_axle/
now that looks confusing lol...


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