toddowaddo

Don't forget, if you have a rear wiper that it has to be in position or the window won't work. Don't ask me how I know this Happened on my '86 4runner.

After I figured out the problem I bypassed that switch.

Todd

thook

Discovered that one a LOOOOONG time ago! But, thanks for mentioning it.

thook

Okay, so can I safely bypass the relay? My idea is to jumper the input and output (up and down) on the module. It's been raining alot and I can't get my hands on replacements right away.

thook

Also, I made a mistake. The relays only click when the ignition is ON.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Yes, read the page I posted earlier, it gives that option among others.

thook

Sorry, wasn't sure what you meant application wise. I did read it. Only I understood that just to test, not actually get the window to work. In any event, I tried it and the window would not work. Would this mean the problem is actually further back in the system?

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Sure, you can add a switch, as shwn on the web page, to completely bypass the window relays altogether for either testing purposes or to use full time. Basically the window motor works with 12V and ground applied to it's two terminals. Apply one polarity and it goes down, swap polarity and it goes up. If the motor will not run with power ang ground applied directly to it, then the motor is likely bad.

thook

Thank you for your patience, 4Crawler. I had gotten lost in some of the terminology. But, now, after having read all of the information several times over, once I had figured out what pages you were referring to, I have a definite understanding of what is what and where it is and what it does. Hey, I've learned Greek! Or least the alphabet. So, today I will do my tests, the correct way this time. I will post on any results. Thanks again.

thook

Trying to remove old relays, are they cemented on?

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Never removed andy myself, they are of course soldered in place. They may also be glued on for assembly, but once you are sure all the solder is gone, then do whatever it takes to get the relay off w/o damaging the PC board.

thook

Well, I did finally get the relays off. For everyone's info they are not cemented on. The solder did prove to be rather difficult. Put a scratch on the PC and a small hole or two in my finger with the screwdriver. Hope it works. If not, was no good with old relays anyway and can get my $20 back on the new ones. Finally figured out what the wiring diagram meant, so I have the toggle switch to bypass. In any event the window IS going to work, @#$% it! Thanks!

thook

Now I am not getting power to the module. Grrrrr! I checked all the fuses under the hood and behind the kick panel. All good.Tested the harness behind the kick panel and no power. In all my tinkering did I blow something somewhere? I looked at the wiring diagram on the links you posted and I can't make sense of it. Would there be a problem in the engine control panel on the passenger side? The vehicle runs. The window motor works otherwise. Tested it with a wire direct from the battery. Where to go from here? If you please, WTBleep did I do?

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Right at the top of the wiring diagram is the "Circuit Breaker" which supplies power to the window motor and relay module. Maybe it tripped and needs to be reset.

thook

Thanks 4Crawler! Will check it out. In the meantime I ran a bypass from the power to the radio, which I am not using because of some speaker or other malfunction, to a DPDT switch. It's funny because the motor, which is quite strong I might add!, seems to run a bit faster now. It actually startled me because it made the whole vehicle move a little much like when you start the engine. That window could take your head off!

dragon564

I read a post on another web site that had the directions on how to repair the relay box box by replacing the relays with some from radio shack it even gave the radio shack part number. I just wish I could find the site again. At any rate it is not that hard of a repair job to just replace those relays.....

thook

Thanks dragon! Yeah, I am intending to do just that. 4Crawler's cheap tricks link explains it, also. I've already gotten the relays from RS. Now, it's just a matter of having the time to do it, for me. And your are right it is not hard, just requires patience and a steady hand. At any rate my problem now is locating that breaker to make the eventual repair. I like to try and use what is already there in the system, as in original wiring and what not. This is the deepest I've ever dug into the electrical system on my rig. By the time I'm done I'll be a dangerous man. I LOVE to tinker.

thook

IN BUSINESS! Rewired my bypass switch to the dash and left it connected to the system in case of future issues. Is that safe? Also, called dealer and found circuit breaker. Was the problem getting power back to the module. Thanks 4Crawler! Now all that's left is soldering in new relays and hooking module back up. Maybe I can get the rear wiper working again. Woohoo! Hasn't worked since I bought the runner!
On another note, looking for another motor for my '92. Just as an option to rebuilding. Any suggestions/input either way? I'll post this somewhere else on the forum, as well.

Diesel_Freak

NICE!!!! good deal, I've been reading this thread hoping you'd get the help you needed... glad to hear you've got your window working... mine couldn't be better after that simple hasp flip... as for motor's, if you've got the coin, go LC engineering... hands down the best Toyota mnotors from what I hear... I'm really interested in their Supercharger kit for my 22RE... oooh power.

thook

Thanks Diesel-Freak! It is nice having an operational window. The hasp flip is a good idea. Leaving the bypass hooked in when I plugged the module back in was not a good idea. System not happy with that wiring setup! It's either bypass or not. But, I left all the bypass wiring in place to hook up if need be. Which is still the case! With new relays and all, the window will still not work tied to the factory system. Bypass unhooked, of course. Back to tracking down the problem. Probably a switch somewhere. More testing! Oh well!
I'll look up LC engineering. Thanks for the tip!

thook

They are too pricey for my budget. I have no real need for mods either. Thanks anyway! Will keep looking.
I suppose for the sake of narrowing in on what I AM looking for is a motor out of wrecked vehicles for a '92. I am told motors between '91 and '94 will work. But, that info has varied from person to person. Gotta go cheap as I can without comprimising quality. And as close to Arkansas for shipping as I can get.