Scarbro22

Skip to 2nd paragraph for questions if you don't want to know the background on why a swap is needed.

Let me start by saying that i've spent the first 4 hours of my break searching 3 different Toyota sites (Yotatech first of course) and calling local salvage yards in search of a new engine setup. I was driving down the highway when I started hearing hard knocking and immediately pulled off the first exit and saw a Valvoline Instant Oil Change place and clunked into there. They immediately said it sounded like a blown piston and upon further review found a small leak that they said couldn't account for the 3 missing quarts of oil! They topped off the oil at no charge and i came immediately home driving roughly 5 miles on it. Everyone i've called and read about seems to think its fatal to the engine and i'll need a new setup.

Now to what i'll do if the mechanic friend i'm visiting confirms the worst, a need for a new engine. One local place said they could hook me up with a 3.0 out of a 1993 T-100 with 83K on it with labor for roughly $2K. If i don't decide to sell the 4Runner, i thought i could go the way of the 3.4L swap but i know this is more costly. My question is if i go this route, is it a better financial idea to go ahead and convert to a manual in the process. This would cut the prices of say an ORS conversion kit. I found a 1996 3.4L enigine and tranny for $1500 locally but it's off a 2WD and mine is a 4WD. Is there any way this 2WD would help me out or is it a waste of time? Should i be looking at manual setups as well and just convert to manual in the process? Has anyone done the double swap? BTW PLEASE UNDERSTAND that I will be doing 0% of the work and it will be done by some local shop. Please offer advice on options or help answer my questions. Thanks, Andrew

Scarbro22

Well it's finalized, mechanic heard 2 seconds of the piston slapping hard and knew it was toast. Any help? Has anyone ever done any of the Downey Chevota swaps through a shop?

Scarbro22

nothing guys? I don't have long till i must decide the fate of my runner!

alltrac165

I have no experience through a shop, so I can't tell you about that. I know it took me a fair amount of time, like close to 40 hours, so it would likely cost you a good chunk of change. I don't think the 2WD computer will work like you want it too. There would be no provision for the 4WD dash light, or to switch on and off the ADD. My personal opinion would be that if a shop is doing it, it's not a fiscally sound idea.

Scarbro22

Well since i have to either pay someone to put in another 3.0 or pay someone to put in the 3.4, do you see it worth it then? Either way it'll be costing me. Any ideas on where to shop for either size engine?

The best 3.0 deal i've found is that 1993 T-100 that has 90K miles on it. The guy said he'd sell the engine for $1500 and install it for $400. That installation price seems very low since one mechanic said that when he looked the swap up, it said it'd be a 20 hour job at minimum.

alltrac165

It cost me 2100 just for the engine, computer and harness. Factor in the extra parts to make the exhaust work, swapping oil pickup and pan, figuring out the wiring, splicing the harnesses, reworking fuel lines, all the emissions changes, etc. and I'll bet your looking at 5K for a shop to do the swap to a 3.4, minimum. Your call if you think it's worth it. You won't get that back out if you sell, that's for sure. Ask Teamshiftpoint what he would charge to do it to get an idea, since he's done several. Or someone here has had ORS do the swap, see what they charge. If it were me, I wouldn't unless I had gobs of cash and really wanted the extra power. I managed just fine on the 3.0 for years. Just got a bug up my butt to do the swap when my engine blew a head gasket. Even doing the work myself, an 80K mile 3.4 cost double to install than a fresh rebuilt 3.0 would have. Don't get me wrong, I like it, it just costs a fair chunk of change and a lot of time. Or wait and see what happens with the 4Valve heads on the 3VZFE vs the 3VZE also developing here on this site.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116/mods-3-0-durring-full-rebuild-35794/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/3-0-3-4-power-build-up-progress-donations-needed-37265/

sschaefer3

[Cheese] I have a 3.4 in my 95. I also have a new auto tranny and crawler. ORS did the work. It is not cheap or quick. If cost is an issue, get another 3.0

I have almost 10k miles on the swap and all the loose ends are not tied up. Putting a 3.0 back in is going to be a thousand times quicker and easier. Everything will bolt back up.

I don't think it makes sense to swap to a stick only to save in the cost difference between conversion kits. I also know there is no longer a way to use the new auto unless you put in a divorced case. [/Cheese]

Scarbro22

I definitely missed that in my research. Without going to too much trouble, can you explain this? I really am leaning towards this cheap 3.0 around here.

sschaefer3

[Cheese] My junk leaks and has always leaked. Marlin has stopped selling the kit. This is not a research fact, I know this because I have been talking to them to finally get it taken care of. [/Cheese]

Turboz

I just sold a 3VZE with 100k for $500 and installed it for another $500. Guess I'm too cheap

The 3.4 swap is pretty tough if you have to pay another person. I would only go that route if you have the skills to do it yourself, Otherwise you'll dump more cash into the truck than it is worth.

We have an 88 4runner (V6 AT) it was a total dog. I put a new 3.0 engine with downey headers and the performance is more than acceptable. I am guessing the headers did the most benefit. If you decide to go this route take all the exhaust studs off the heads and install the engine into the truck with no exhaust manifolds or crossover. The only way to put headers in is with the studs removed.

Good Luck