Elvota's 3.4 swap

Elvota · 10-28-2007, 12:53 AM

Well, it has begun. Even though my 3.0 has never failed me... it has let me down in terms of power and MPG. I did a lot to it, and plan to transfer what is compatible to the 3.4 accessory wise. I am looking forward to being able to complete some road trips with a little more authority in the passing lane.

Donor motor: 3.4 out of a 96 4Runner, 5spd.

There are some mighty good writeups already here on YT with plenty of detail. Mt. Goat (link) and Breknraj (link) are just a couple of shining examples that I plan to have guide me.

There will be a few things different with my swap however that may help others.

1. I have an SAS
2. I have dual cases courtesy of Marlin and their various adapters (23 spline throughout)
3. I plan to use headers
4. I plan to wire it myself (but have ORS bookmarked should I fail

)
5. I plan to do a custom filter/ intake similar to what I built for my 3.0
6. No supercharger
7. No bodylift (hood, meet cut off wheel... cut off wheel, meet hood

)

I'll keep this thread updated... but my progress will be slow. Just starting to tackle the wiring at this point. I will then do some maintainence on the 3.4 such as timing belt, water pump and anything else that's easier to do with the motor out of the 4Runner.

On with some pics. Current 3.0 that is now in the way

Donor motor:

Electrical spaghetti

I have dowloaded basically the entire manual for the 96 4Runner from TIS (link) and have already found the $10 a day charge more than worthwhile.

So... wish me luck...

I am also looking for suggestions on sparkplugs, wires, air filter (cone type, not stock), oil filter, additional mods or anything that I might be missing. By the way, I have no plans to tear down the motor and do internal upgrades at this time. I will run it stock for a year or so, and then think about getting some more performance if I feel the need.

I did already have one wiring question... but didn't want it to get buried here. (link)

This ad is not displayed to registered members.
Register your free account today and become a member on Yotatech!

ocdropzone · 10-28-2007, 01:06 AM

Steve: Looks like you have got your work cut out for you. Good luck with it. After seeing some similar threads it makes me wonder if it would be possible to swap a 3.4 in my '81..probably more work than I am ready for, maybe a 2.7.

How many miles on the Donor engine and were you able to get the ECU etc from donor vehicle? The Spaghetti looks colorful...

Elvota · 10-28-2007, 01:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ocdropzone

How many miles on the Donor engine and were you able to get the ECU etc from donor vehicle?

I do not have an exact mileage on the motor... guessing over 100,00 though. But with 235,000 on the current 3.0, I can't complain. Funny, some non-Toyota people I meet don't know why I am so stoked to put a motor with 100,000 miles on it in my truck.

I did get the ECU and all the accessories with the motor. Majority of related components as well.

neoworm0 · 10-28-2007, 08:34 AM

subscribing. Good Luck with the swap!

mt_goat · 10-28-2007, 09:44 AM

Subscribed and may the force be with you.

In answer your question about air filtering, I'd try to find one of these to fit your cone holder:
https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/eaau.aspx

I wonder if since you have an SAS if you couldn't just keep the 5VZFE oil pan and dip stick?

fillsrunner4 · 10-28-2007, 12:06 PM

Looks good however was the harness cut? the pic of the 3.4 looks like you had to lable all the wires yourself. I know how that must have been if you did that. I used a AEM dryforce intake cone on mine. I also added a oil filter relocation kit so i could add a bit more oil just a thought.

MT goat i think i even with the sas it would be wise to add a 2wd t100 pan. the best place i have found for this was Sky Manufacturing. comes with pan, dipstick, and pickup tube. I can tell if i kept the stock pan it would hit.

Good luck and cant wait to see some more pics.

Elvota · 10-28-2007, 12:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fillsrunner4

Looks good however was the harness cut? the pic of the 3.4 looks like you had to label all the wires yourself. I know how that must have been if you did that.

It was cut. I had no luck finding a 3.4 in my area, I must be a bad detective. It really hasn't been that hard putting things back together... and I have learned a lot about automotive wiring in the process. Electrical has always been a mystery to me, so I am using this as a learning experience. This is of course assuming I did everything right. Guess I won't know that for sure until I turn the key.

Quote:

Originally Posted by fillsrunner4

MT goat i think i even with the sas it would be wise to add a 2wd t100 pan. the best place i have found for this was Sky Manufacturing. comes with pan, dipstick, and pickup tube. I can tell if i kept the stock pan it would hit.

I will most likely use the pan and related from my current 3.0 as that clears all the SAS stuff without issue... and is much cheaper than Sky.

My goal is to keep the entire project under $2000, and then reduce that a bit by selling the 3.0 after I am done. Guess we will see.

fillsrunner4 · 10-28-2007, 12:24 PM

Have you found the plugs to match that ecu? this was my problem but theres a guy here who helped me track down the part number if you need some ill send you his info if you want.

Its alot of wires but its actualy pretty easy once you start diy.

Elvota · 10-28-2007, 12:28 PM

Even though the harness was cut, I made sure to grab all the related wires and plugs. So, I have everything... just need to get it all back together.

I think I have the harness about 95% reconstructed... so next step will be mechanical. I am hoping to start tearing things apart within the next few weeks.

fillsrunner4 · 10-28-2007, 12:31 PM

sweet thats good you were able to get the plugs.

Keep us informed on your progress and good luck

ocdropzone · 10-29-2007, 09:50 AM

Under $2k...that will be much better than the 3.0

breknraj · 10-29-2007, 01:45 PM

Welcome aboard, Elvota!

It sounds as though you will have a seriously bada$$ set up, once you're done!

If your 3.0 oil pan fits well around your SAS, then you should be golden using that on the 3.4 - it will end up in exactly the same place. My donor had a K&N intake system on it, when I got it. I re-used the intake pipe and related hose hook ups, but I swapped the filter for a TrueFlow. It has been a great set up, for me (and getting about time to clean it - I've put about 10,000 miles on the beast, since the swap!)

Feel free to PM me, if there is anything that I might be able to help you with!

Elvota · 10-29-2007, 02:20 PM

Thanks for the votes of support.

It is my understanding that the 3.0 and 3.4 blocks are the same. Thus tranny, oil pan, accessory and engine mount compatibility.

What reasons (if any) would there be for my current 3.0 headers not to work/ fit on the new 3.4?

My hope is that they will, and save me some coin... but I know Downey and others list headers specifically for 3.0 and 3.4 applications. If just a difference in routing, my SAS may rescue me again with some additional clearances where the IFS wouldn't have them. Guess we will see.

fillsrunner4 · 10-29-2007, 02:40 PM

they are completly different heads so the headers will not work

mt_goat · 10-29-2007, 04:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fillsrunner4

they are completly different heads so the headers will not work

X2, not even close to fitting.

Elvota · 10-29-2007, 07:49 PM

Have you ever had one of those days where your brain just let's you down? Why oh why did I think the headers had anything to do with the blocks being the same.

Sure hope my gray matter starts firing on all cylinders soon or this swap is surely doomed.

fillsrunner4 · 10-29-2007, 08:14 PM

you can do it. trust me we all see those days. the blocks are very similar but not exactly the same. Keep researching and gather as much info as you can. its not a hard swap to do and theres plenty of help on this forum and others.

RobD · 10-29-2007, 08:20 PM

I had a cross-over custom made for mine that comes right off the factory exhaust manifolds. They used 2 1/4" pipe (if memory serves) because anything larger, in their opinion, probably wouldn't make much difference on a V6. Except take up more space behind the block, that is. If you're getting one built, have them build it as tight to the back of the block as you can, following the curve of the bellhousing. They did this with mine and it came down darn near dead perfectly centered between the frame rail and the transmission. Looks almost stock.

I've got tons of power, too, with it. It turns 33's at highway speed with no problem. I can maintain speed on 8% grades. I can pick up speed if I downshift. Stuff that was only fantasy with the 3.0.

Another good site is www.andrewzook.com

Elvota · 11-26-2007, 09:34 PM

Okay... finally getting started on this project.

Since the kitchen ReDo was slowing me down, I figured I might as well post a few pics. Few small things left, but I just was itching to get this swap under way.

Before:

After:

Turned out well IMO, at least we are really happy with it. Now, back to the task YT is interested in...

Elvota · 11-26-2007, 09:35 PM

First on the list for the 3.4 was to replace the timing belt, spark plugs, wires, idler bearings and possibly the water pump.

Timing belt kit (TS26271) from Parts Dinosaur:

Sparkplugs and wires from Sparkplugs.com:

Has to make a ESS (Elvota Service Tool

) for the crank shaft pulley to get the bolt out and install later:

Basically two lengths of 1 by 1 square tube welded to a piece of pipe I had sitting around. Then two 3/8" bolts drilled and welded in the proper position to match the CS pulley. Worked really well. Got ton's of leverage for removal and install. Could really crank that bolt. The one on my 3.0 came loose before (my fault) so I was glad to have this additional torque provider

After struggling with the timing marks for a bit, I got the belt on. The water pump had no signs of leaking and span smoothly. I had bought one from Parts Dinosuar, but it wasn't Aisin (Rock Brand) and the one currently on the 3.4 was Aisin, so I left it alone for now. This may be something I regret down the line... but I guess time will tell.

I ended up replacing the center top idler bearing as well as the one on the tensioner. Both felt a little loose and came with the kit.

Getting closer:

Don't have many pictures from there, but feel I did get a lot accomplished today.

Pulled the 3.0 ECU and got the harness pulled into the engine bay.
Disconnected most of the wiring, etc. from the 3.0 so I can pull it tomorrow.
Removed exhaust from headers back.
Dropped the tranny (that's a monster with dual cases and the rear heater hoses)
Removed the 3.4 oil pan (will be using the pan and pickup from the 3.0)
Removed 3.4 exhaust manifolds (will be running headers)
Took the flywheel down to get turned.

As I tore into the 3.4, there were no surprises. Spark plugs all looked fine and no sludge evident in the oil pan. Seems like the previous owner took decent care of the motor before the vehicles demise.

The goal tomorrow will be to pull the 3.0 and tackle a few maintenance items I have been wanting to do once the engine bay is free and clear.

Question:
Does anyone know if the 3.0 and 3.4 alternators are compatible? I'd like to keep my upgraded 3.0 alternator for the 3.4. I have heard that you need to swap the IC regulator on the back of the alternators, but I am not clear on this. I don't want to overload the ECM or cause other problems.

Elvota · 11-27-2007, 08:27 PM

Got a bit more done today.

Started to pull the 3.0 when I realized there is no way with my SAS and 35's my borrowed engine hoist was going to get it out of there. I am a little slow sometimes.

So, midway through, I took off the wheels and lowered the front end a bit:

Then as the engine started to come out, I realized that there is no way I was going to have everything clear with the headers still on.... so those came off mid hoist. Then I realized the radiator was in harms way... so that came out. Then I realized I couldn't go up anymore, and I couldn't get the truck any lower...

So, there I was... half way done with nowhere to go. Eventually, I was able to push the 4Runner back a few inches and then lower and raise and move and push and lower and move... you get the idea. Next time I'll make sure I don't have anything above me before I pull a motor.

Anyway, mandatory empty engine bay shot:

Did realize after that my engine mounts from the 3.0 where shot, so ordered another pair of those. Spendy suckers. My wishful goal of $2000 for the project seems to be rapidly vanishing. I knew it wasn't very practical, but figured I shoot for it anyway. Hopefully I can bring back down the final bill with the sale of leftovers.

I wonder if others who have undertaken this project before have ever looked into their garage and asked themselves, "How on earth am I going to get all that sorted out and back in my rig??"

I was able to clean up (relative term) the tranny a bit and fix the bad threads I had on the bell where the slave cylinder bolts on. Installed some stiffer Marlin shifter springs in the rear case.

Anyone know what this "Mystery" fitting would have been for? Big pic for reference first:

It seems like a vacuum line, but was capped:

I'd rather just eliminate it with a bolt instead of the cap, but was wondering what it once led to or it's purpose. Any guesses? [Edit: Turns out this line used to be run to the original V6 gear driven case as a vent. Should have remembered that in the first place. ]

Also started cleaning up some of the extra or sloppy wiring I had done in the past. I may remove the ABS system which I abandoned when I went to discs. If I can find a high pressure PS line to replace the existing I most definitely will.

Tomorrow the plan is to weld up a frame gusset on the inside rail for the steering box. I have some cracking going on at the bolts which I fixed temporarily before. Will be swapping the 3.0 oil pan and related to the 3.4. Figuring out the alternator situation and try to find a local source for a high pressure power steering line.

So far so good.

neoworm0 · 11-27-2007, 08:36 PM

I removed the ABS actuator from my truck and then used the lines from a non abs equipped 4runner. Did a bit of a writeup here:
http://bb.bc4x4.com/showthread.php?t...ht=ABS+removal

Elvota · 11-27-2007, 08:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by neoworm0

I removed the ABS actuator from my truck and then used the lines from a non abs equipped 4runner.

Now that is a great idea!! Would solve a lot of problems. I'll have to figure out where to find one.

neoworm0 · 11-27-2007, 08:49 PM

I kept my eyes open for someone parting a truck. I went to the dealer first but you don't want to know what they wanted. LOL. Keep the progress reports coming. I think I'm going to be doing this swap VERY soon. Sorry can't help you with that fitting. I don't recall seeing that on my tranny.

Elvota · 11-27-2007, 08:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by neoworm0

I kept my eyes open for someone parting a truck. I went to the dealer first but you don't want to know what they wanted. LOL.

Yeah... I read your thread. Dealer price is insane!!!

Would be nice to clean up that area. Hadn't thought about removing the rest of the electronics as well. Was just looking at that ABS relay today on the fender and wondered what it was for.

10-28-2007, 01:06 AM	#2 (permalink)
ocdropzone Contributing Member Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: PDX, OR Posts: 4,700	Steve: Looks like you have got your work cut out for you. Good luck with it. After seeing some similar threads it makes me wonder if it would be possible to swap a 3.4 in my '81..probably more work than I am ready for, maybe a 2.7. How many miles on the Donor engine and were you able to get the ECU etc from donor vehicle? The Spaghetti looks colorful... __________________ ~Robb '81 Trekker The B4Runner Build TREKKER Forum Mini FAQ/Misc Ideas Thread TRY THESE SEARCH LINKS GOOGLE FOR TOYOTA WEBSITES LINK TO ONLINE FACTORY SERVICE MANUALS Drive a real 1st Gen Wheel Responsibly, Don't Screw It Up for Others

10-28-2007, 08:34 AM	#4 (permalink)
neoworm0 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: North Vancouver, BC Posts: 604	subscribing. Good Luck with the swap! __________________ 1995 Toyota PU SR5. 2000 3.4l V6 and a few other mods. my album: http://www.yotatech.com/album.php?albumid=101 my SAS: http://picasaweb.google.com/areinhol...eat=directlink www.overlandcanada.ca www.alltracwagon.net

10-28-2007, 09:44 AM	#5 (permalink)
mt_goat Contributing Member Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Oklahoma State Posts: 8,916	Subscribed and may the force be with you. In answer your question about air filtering, I'd try to find one of these to fit your cone holder: https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/eaau.aspx I wonder if since you have an SAS if you couldn't just keep the 5VZFE oil pan and dip stick? __________________ ~Dale~ 93 4X4 ext-cab, auto, SR5, 3.4 V6, supercharged, 2.1" pulley, URD fuel mods, Aquamist WI, IPT valve body mod, dual cases, 4" superlift front, Alcan springs rear, 33 BFG MT, ARB locked front & rear, 5.29 US Gears, RB 1" Body Lift, 1.5" ball joint spacers, manual hubs, TJM T-17, Warn m8000.

10-28-2007, 12:06 PM	#6 (permalink)
fillsrunner4 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Sammamish, wa Posts: 2,724	Looks good however was the harness cut? the pic of the 3.4 looks like you had to lable all the wires yourself. I know how that must have been if you did that. I used a AEM dryforce intake cone on mine. I also added a oil filter relocation kit so i could add a bit more oil just a thought. MT goat i think i even with the sas it would be wise to add a 2wd t100 pan. the best place i have found for this was Sky Manufacturing. comes with pan, dipstick, and pickup tube. I can tell if i kept the stock pan it would hit. Good luck and cant wait to see some more pics. __________________ 94' toyota 4runner (Many a change!) purchased bone stock, NOW... SAS, 39" Iroks, Rear Leafswap, 5.29's , Air locked front, Welded rear, Chevy 4.3L V6, 5spd swap, dual T/C's MC10R10, flatbelly with custom skids, sliders, Chopped, Bobbed and so much more. Might as well start reading this if ya want know more Fillsrunner4 3.4crawler Build Thread Fillsrunner4.3 crawler (Part Two) build thread

10-28-2007, 12:24 PM	#8 (permalink)
fillsrunner4 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Sammamish, wa Posts: 2,724	Have you found the plugs to match that ecu? this was my problem but theres a guy here who helped me track down the part number if you need some ill send you his info if you want. Its alot of wires but its actualy pretty easy once you start diy. __________________ 94' toyota 4runner (Many a change!) purchased bone stock, NOW... SAS, 39" Iroks, Rear Leafswap, 5.29's , Air locked front, Welded rear, Chevy 4.3L V6, 5spd swap, dual T/C's MC10R10, flatbelly with custom skids, sliders, Chopped, Bobbed and so much more. Might as well start reading this if ya want know more Fillsrunner4 3.4crawler Build Thread Fillsrunner4.3 crawler (Part Two) build thread

10-28-2007, 12:28 PM	#9 (permalink)
Elvota Contributing Member Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Phx, AZ Posts: 3,436	Even though the harness was cut, I made sure to grab all the related wires and plugs. So, I have everything... just need to get it all back together. I think I have the harness about 95% reconstructed... so next step will be mechanical. I am hoping to start tearing things apart within the next few weeks. __________________ ================ 1990 4Runner \| V6 3.4 \| 5spd \| 240 someoddthousand miles \| SR5 \| SAS \| RLS \| 35's \| ARB \| TJM \| 217 to 1 \| W8000 - four wheels \| three sticks \| two hands \| one trail - RIGITY DIGITY visit the sticki chronicles

10-28-2007, 12:31 PM	#10 (permalink)
fillsrunner4 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Sammamish, wa Posts: 2,724	sweet thats good you were able to get the plugs. Keep us informed on your progress and good luck __________________ 94' toyota 4runner (Many a change!) purchased bone stock, NOW... SAS, 39" Iroks, Rear Leafswap, 5.29's , Air locked front, Welded rear, Chevy 4.3L V6, 5spd swap, dual T/C's MC10R10, flatbelly with custom skids, sliders, Chopped, Bobbed and so much more. Might as well start reading this if ya want know more Fillsrunner4 3.4crawler Build Thread Fillsrunner4.3 crawler (Part Two) build thread

10-29-2007, 09:50 AM	#11 (permalink)
ocdropzone Contributing Member Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: PDX, OR Posts: 4,700	Under $2k...that will be much better than the 3.0 __________________ ~Robb '81 Trekker The B4Runner Build TREKKER Forum Mini FAQ/Misc Ideas Thread TRY THESE SEARCH LINKS GOOGLE FOR TOYOTA WEBSITES LINK TO ONLINE FACTORY SERVICE MANUALS Drive a real 1st Gen Wheel Responsibly, Don't Screw It Up for Others

10-29-2007, 01:45 PM	#12 (permalink)
breknraj Contributing Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Summit County, Colorado Posts: 898	Welcome aboard, Elvota! It sounds as though you will have a seriously bada$$ set up, once you're done! If your 3.0 oil pan fits well around your SAS, then you should be golden using that on the 3.4 - it will end up in exactly the same place. My donor had a K&N intake system on it, when I got it. I re-used the intake pipe and related hose hook ups, but I swapped the filter for a TrueFlow. It has been a great set up, for me (and getting about time to clean it - I've put about 10,000 miles on the beast, since the swap!) Feel free to PM me, if there is anything that I might be able to help you with! __________________ Raj : 1960 Homo Sapien. 192cm, Blonde, Blue. Soon to lose spare tire. Worf : 1990 SR5 Xtracab 4x4 5 speed, Inca Red Metallic. 3.4 converted, with Taco 5 spoke alloys, 275/65R16 BFG AT K/Os. Soon to add rear e-locker.

10-29-2007, 02:20 PM	#13 (permalink)
Elvota Contributing Member Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Phx, AZ Posts: 3,436	Thanks for the votes of support. It is my understanding that the 3.0 and 3.4 blocks are the same. Thus tranny, oil pan, accessory and engine mount compatibility. What reasons (if any) would there be for my current 3.0 headers not to work/ fit on the new 3.4? My hope is that they will, and save me some coin... but I know Downey and others list headers specifically for 3.0 and 3.4 applications. If just a difference in routing, my SAS may rescue me again with some additional clearances where the IFS wouldn't have them. Guess we will see. __________________ ================ 1990 4Runner \| V6 3.4 \| 5spd \| 240 someoddthousand miles \| SR5 \| SAS \| RLS \| 35's \| ARB \| TJM \| 217 to 1 \| W8000 - four wheels \| three sticks \| two hands \| one trail - RIGITY DIGITY visit the sticki chronicles

10-29-2007, 02:40 PM	#14 (permalink)
fillsrunner4 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Sammamish, wa Posts: 2,724	they are completly different heads so the headers will not work __________________ 94' toyota 4runner (Many a change!) purchased bone stock, NOW... SAS, 39" Iroks, Rear Leafswap, 5.29's , Air locked front, Welded rear, Chevy 4.3L V6, 5spd swap, dual T/C's MC10R10, flatbelly with custom skids, sliders, Chopped, Bobbed and so much more. Might as well start reading this if ya want know more Fillsrunner4 3.4crawler Build Thread Fillsrunner4.3 crawler (Part Two) build thread

10-29-2007, 07:49 PM	#16 (permalink)
Elvota Contributing Member Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Phx, AZ Posts: 3,436	Have you ever had one of those days where your brain just let's you down? Why oh why did I think the headers had anything to do with the blocks being the same. Sure hope my gray matter starts firing on all cylinders soon or this swap is surely doomed. __________________ ================ 1990 4Runner \| V6 3.4 \| 5spd \| 240 someoddthousand miles \| SR5 \| SAS \| RLS \| 35's \| ARB \| TJM \| 217 to 1 \| W8000 - four wheels \| three sticks \| two hands \| one trail - RIGITY DIGITY visit the sticki chronicles

10-29-2007, 08:14 PM	#17 (permalink)
fillsrunner4 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Sammamish, wa Posts: 2,724	you can do it. trust me we all see those days. the blocks are very similar but not exactly the same. Keep researching and gather as much info as you can. its not a hard swap to do and theres plenty of help on this forum and others. __________________ 94' toyota 4runner (Many a change!) purchased bone stock, NOW... SAS, 39" Iroks, Rear Leafswap, 5.29's , Air locked front, Welded rear, Chevy 4.3L V6, 5spd swap, dual T/C's MC10R10, flatbelly with custom skids, sliders, Chopped, Bobbed and so much more. Might as well start reading this if ya want know more Fillsrunner4 3.4crawler Build Thread Fillsrunner4.3 crawler (Part Two) build thread

10-29-2007, 08:20 PM	#18 (permalink)
RobD Registered User Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Calgary, AB Posts: 1,724	I had a cross-over custom made for mine that comes right off the factory exhaust manifolds. They used 2 1/4" pipe (if memory serves) because anything larger, in their opinion, probably wouldn't make much difference on a V6. Except take up more space behind the block, that is. If you're getting one built, have them build it as tight to the back of the block as you can, following the curve of the bellhousing. They did this with mine and it came down darn near dead perfectly centered between the frame rail and the transmission. Looks almost stock. I've got tons of power, too, with it. It turns 33's at highway speed with no problem. I can maintain speed on 8% grades. I can pick up speed if I downshift. Stuff that was only fantasy with the 3.0. Another good site is www.andrewzook.com __________________ 1991 4Runner, 3.4 5VZFE swap, OME shocks/springs, 33" BFG All Terrain T/A KOs, Pioneer head unit, Infinity speakers, XM Satellite radio Last edited by RobD; 10-29-2007 at 08:26 PM.

11-26-2007, 09:34 PM	#19 (permalink)
Elvota Contributing Member Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Phx, AZ Posts: 3,436	Okay... finally getting started on this project. Since the kitchen ReDo was slowing me down, I figured I might as well post a few pics. Few small things left, but I just was itching to get this swap under way. Before: After: Turned out well IMO, at least we are really happy with it. Now, back to the task YT is interested in... __________________ ================ 1990 4Runner \| V6 3.4 \| 5spd \| 240 someoddthousand miles \| SR5 \| SAS \| RLS \| 35's \| ARB \| TJM \| 217 to 1 \| W8000 - four wheels \| three sticks \| two hands \| one trail - RIGITY DIGITY visit the sticki chronicles

11-26-2007, 09:35 PM	#20 (permalink)
Elvota Contributing Member Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Phx, AZ Posts: 3,436	First on the list for the 3.4 was to replace the timing belt, spark plugs, wires, idler bearings and possibly the water pump. Timing belt kit (TS26271) from Parts Dinosaur: Sparkplugs and wires from Sparkplugs.com: Has to make a ESS (Elvota Service Tool ) for the crank shaft pulley to get the bolt out and install later: Basically two lengths of 1 by 1 square tube welded to a piece of pipe I had sitting around. Then two 3/8" bolts drilled and welded in the proper position to match the CS pulley. Worked really well. Got ton's of leverage for removal and install. Could really crank that bolt. The one on my 3.0 came loose before (my fault) so I was glad to have this additional torque provider After struggling with the timing marks for a bit, I got the belt on. The water pump had no signs of leaking and span smoothly. I had bought one from Parts Dinosuar, but it wasn't Aisin (Rock Brand) and the one currently on the 3.4 was Aisin, so I left it alone for now. This may be something I regret down the line... but I guess time will tell. I ended up replacing the center top idler bearing as well as the one on the tensioner. Both felt a little loose and came with the kit. Getting closer: Don't have many pictures from there, but feel I did get a lot accomplished today. Pulled the 3.0 ECU and got the harness pulled into the engine bay. Disconnected most of the wiring, etc. from the 3.0 so I can pull it tomorrow. Removed exhaust from headers back. Dropped the tranny (that's a monster with dual cases and the rear heater hoses) Removed the 3.4 oil pan (will be using the pan and pickup from the 3.0) Removed 3.4 exhaust manifolds (will be running headers) Took the flywheel down to get turned. As I tore into the 3.4, there were no surprises. Spark plugs all looked fine and no sludge evident in the oil pan. Seems like the previous owner took decent care of the motor before the vehicles demise. The goal tomorrow will be to pull the 3.0 and tackle a few maintenance items I have been wanting to do once the engine bay is free and clear. Question: Does anyone know if the 3.0 and 3.4 alternators are compatible? I'd like to keep my upgraded 3.0 alternator for the 3.4. I have heard that you need to swap the IC regulator on the back of the alternators, but I am not clear on this. I don't want to overload the ECM or cause other problems. __________________ ================ 1990 4Runner \| V6 3.4 \| 5spd \| 240 someoddthousand miles \| SR5 \| SAS \| RLS \| 35's \| ARB \| TJM \| 217 to 1 \| W8000 - four wheels \| three sticks \| two hands \| one trail - RIGITY DIGITY visit the sticki chronicles Last edited by Elvota; 11-27-2007 at 08:29 PM.

11-27-2007, 08:27 PM	#21 (permalink)
Elvota Contributing Member Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Phx, AZ Posts: 3,436	Got a bit more done today. Started to pull the 3.0 when I realized there is no way with my SAS and 35's my borrowed engine hoist was going to get it out of there. I am a little slow sometimes. So, midway through, I took off the wheels and lowered the front end a bit: Then as the engine started to come out, I realized that there is no way I was going to have everything clear with the headers still on.... so those came off mid hoist. Then I realized the radiator was in harms way... so that came out. Then I realized I couldn't go up anymore, and I couldn't get the truck any lower... So, there I was... half way done with nowhere to go. Eventually, I was able to push the 4Runner back a few inches and then lower and raise and move and push and lower and move... you get the idea. Next time I'll make sure I don't have anything above me before I pull a motor. Anyway, mandatory empty engine bay shot: Did realize after that my engine mounts from the 3.0 where shot, so ordered another pair of those. Spendy suckers. My wishful goal of $2000 for the project seems to be rapidly vanishing. I knew it wasn't very practical, but figured I shoot for it anyway. Hopefully I can bring back down the final bill with the sale of leftovers. I wonder if others who have undertaken this project before have ever looked into their garage and asked themselves, "How on earth am I going to get all that sorted out and back in my rig??" I was able to clean up (relative term) the tranny a bit and fix the bad threads I had on the bell where the slave cylinder bolts on. Installed some stiffer Marlin shifter springs in the rear case. Anyone know what this "Mystery" fitting would have been for? Big pic for reference first: It seems like a vacuum line, but was capped: I'd rather just eliminate it with a bolt instead of the cap, but was wondering what it once led to or it's purpose. Any guesses? [Edit: Turns out this line used to be run to the original V6 gear driven case as a vent. Should have remembered that in the first place. ] Also started cleaning up some of the extra or sloppy wiring I had done in the past. I may remove the ABS system which I abandoned when I went to discs. If I can find a high pressure PS line to replace the existing I most definitely will. Tomorrow the plan is to weld up a frame gusset on the inside rail for the steering box. I have some cracking going on at the bolts which I fixed temporarily before. Will be swapping the 3.0 oil pan and related to the 3.4. Figuring out the alternator situation and try to find a local source for a high pressure power steering line. So far so good. __________________ ================ 1990 4Runner \| V6 3.4 \| 5spd \| 240 someoddthousand miles \| SR5 \| SAS \| RLS \| 35's \| ARB \| TJM \| 217 to 1 \| W8000 - four wheels \| three sticks \| two hands \| one trail - RIGITY DIGITY visit the sticki chronicles Last edited by Elvota; 12-07-2007 at 04:14 PM.

11-27-2007, 08:36 PM	#22 (permalink)
neoworm0 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: North Vancouver, BC Posts: 604	I removed the ABS actuator from my truck and then used the lines from a non abs equipped 4runner. Did a bit of a writeup here: http://bb.bc4x4.com/showthread.php?t...ht=ABS+removal __________________ 1995 Toyota PU SR5. 2000 3.4l V6 and a few other mods. my album: http://www.yotatech.com/album.php?albumid=101 my SAS: http://picasaweb.google.com/areinhol...eat=directlink www.overlandcanada.ca www.alltracwagon.net Last edited by neoworm0; 11-27-2007 at 08:37 PM.

11-27-2007, 08:49 PM	#24 (permalink)
neoworm0 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: North Vancouver, BC Posts: 604	I kept my eyes open for someone parting a truck. I went to the dealer first but you don't want to know what they wanted. LOL. Keep the progress reports coming. I think I'm going to be doing this swap VERY soon. Sorry can't help you with that fitting. I don't recall seeing that on my tranny. __________________ 1995 Toyota PU SR5. 2000 3.4l V6 and a few other mods. my album: http://www.yotatech.com/album.php?albumid=101 my SAS: http://picasaweb.google.com/areinhol...eat=directlink www.overlandcanada.ca www.alltracwagon.net Last edited by neoworm0; 11-27-2007 at 08:52 PM.

Thread Tools	Search this Thread
Show Printable Version Email this Page	Search this Thread: Advanced Search

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
Elvota's '90 SAS 4Runner	Elvota	4Runners-2nd gen	3	12-28-2007 03:39 PM
1991 4Runner body swap or engine/tranny swap?	91slowrunner	86-95 Trucks & 4Runners	2	05-21-2007 10:11 PM
3.0 to 3.4 swap?s	91truck	86-95 Trucks & 4Runners	5	03-26-2007 08:41 PM
Axle/Gear Swap Help: Will a '94 Auto-V6 4x4 axle swap into my '90 22RE-5spd 4x4?	Justin311	86-95 Trucks & 4Runners	15	04-15-2006 12:18 AM
4wd problem/tranny swap/t-case swap wtf	squishy321	Offroad Tech	2	04-01-2005 11:41 AM