Hellvision251

Okay here we go.....
A few years back I had an alarm installed.. since then I have unhooked it and never use it anymore.. About 3 weeks ago I went out to start my truck and it wouldn't start.. I would turn the key to the acc position and the radio would come on like normal. When I would turn it to the "on" position the radio would go off, but all the dash lights would come on.. I thought that it was a issue with the old alarm, so I completely took it out of the truck, but it still wasn't working. In the middle of putting the dash back together the truck randomly started working, and would start...... But just this morning I went out and it started fine drove to lowes, came out and it wouldn't start....I notice that my key also wasn't unlocking my driver door because it was soooo worn out.. Also when the key was in the "on" position and I tried to turn the turn signals on, all the dash lights were blinking.. so I bump started it so I can get It back to the house.... and that's were I sit now.. I'm thinking the ignition switch is worn out because the key was so worn... Does this sound like a reasonable explanation for all the bs that has been happening?? thanks

Hellvision251

and when I say wouldn't start I mean wouldn't even turn over but was making some clicking noise, not very loud but you could hear it..

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

The ignition switch lock cylinder turns the electrical part of the switch.

If the lock cylinder was worn to the point or broke that the electrical switch did not turn you would get nothing(no clicking)

I would inspect and clean your ground cable connections As well as the battery terminals.

Could be the contacts in the starter if the weather has gotten colder it could have effected the starting system enough to cause the no crank condition.

When you removed the alarm just what did you do where it was spliced into the harness perhaps that is the cause of the light blinking

Did you get all the alarm out and wiring out?/

Hellvision251

I checked my ground all is good. Truck just died on me again in a freaking parking lot.... Bs. I started using a newer key and the truck ran fine for about 4 days. Then all of a sudden the damn thing stopped working. More symptoms, headlights will not come on at all and the dash lights have a very light surge to them all while the key is at the on position, still no radio. This is really starting to bother me now

Hellvision251

Also to note when key is in the acc position( listening to the radio) and I step on the break peddle the radio turns off until I take my foot off the break....

RAD4Runner

Find out exactly what's clicking so we can help you better.

Move radio power wire from the brake switch back to the accessory circuit. J/K

Sounds like weak battery or poor connection to battery.

1. When brake lights are on they load the battery so much that voltage drops below what it takes to run the radio,
2. When you turn Ign switch to "Start" and starter solenoid energizes, the 12 amps that it takes to energize the coil also drops battery voltage.

Also possible that when Ign is turned all the way to farthest position, acc contacts open. (My radio does this now, altho I do not have any cranking issue because I have corrected the poor wiring that Toyota Did on the stock cranknig system.)

Try turning the key just far enough where you just hear the clicks and no farther.

So you would not be guessing and to methodically solve this issue, see 22R-E cranking system explained here

Hellvision251

Ill try replacing the battery and see what happens. I just don't understand how sometimes it will work and other times it wouldn't. My Toyota finally let me down :-(

RAD4Runner

Do not just replace any part without first verifying that it is bad and that, after putting lots of time and money into replacing it, it will solve your problem.

Have you done everything suggested above? Cleaned your battery connection down so bare contacts metal? Gray metal is not bare metal. You want to see shiny lead, aluminum, steel or brass contacting each other.

once you have done that ad you still have a problem, have battery tested at store first first.

You can also test yourself. Measure battery voltage with engine off and high-beams on. Got 12V or more? Then battery is good. The lower the voltage the worse your battery is.

Measure batt voltage while cranking. Got 9.8 Volts or more? Then your battery should be fine. The lower the voltage, the worse your battery is.

If you have extra money I suggest getting . Good troubleshooting tool and conversation piece (is that 14.5 degrees centigrade?)

Hellvision251

Well guys I finally got back to working on the truck and took another look at the battery.... It turns out the terminals were very dirty and I didn't notice because they have been dirty for so long.. I took a wire brush to them and it seems like that fixed the problem.. Thank you guys for the suggestions.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

You should have looked at your battery terminals first!!

As they are the easiest problem to get to.

Just curious would you have cleaned them when installing your new battery??

What part would you have replaced after the new battery did not fix the problem??

Hellvision251

We'll it was the battery it's self that needed the cleaning not the terminal on my truck. But from there I would have parked it until I had money to have a shop look at it.. I guess I just over look te simple stuff.