Electic Fan Switch option
11-22-2010, 06:35 PM
#1
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Electic Fan Switch option
This is for those of us who want to put in an electric fan and want an automatic switch..
I bought a hayden fan controller but it broke, an I have been using a switch for long time. Forgot to turn it on a couple of times, once crawling through a canyon.
So here is my solution, the OEM fan switch for a Honda bolts right in..
I used a fan switch from a 1990 Honda CRX, screws directly into the coolant drain plug on the drivers side of the motor to right of the exhaust manifold.
It completes a connection at 195 deg and doesn't turn back off for a while.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SMP-TS84/
The "Standard" brand name TS84 has a shorter nub on the end, I think I broke the stock one because it was too long. These can be found for much cheaper, I got mine for $15 it was just the first link.
I have it set up now with three relays in parallel, and a second set of relays on a switch which I will keep until I know the system works perfectly. Later I may use the switch to turn the fan off for those deep water crossings I never do.
I bought a hayden fan controller but it broke, an I have been using a switch for long time. Forgot to turn it on a couple of times, once crawling through a canyon.
So here is my solution, the OEM fan switch for a Honda bolts right in..
I used a fan switch from a 1990 Honda CRX, screws directly into the coolant drain plug on the drivers side of the motor to right of the exhaust manifold.
It completes a connection at 195 deg and doesn't turn back off for a while.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SMP-TS84/
The "Standard" brand name TS84 has a shorter nub on the end, I think I broke the stock one because it was too long. These can be found for much cheaper, I got mine for $15 it was just the first link.
I have it set up now with three relays in parallel, and a second set of relays on a switch which I will keep until I know the system works perfectly. Later I may use the switch to turn the fan off for those deep water crossings I never do.
Last edited by Outsane; 11-22-2010 at 06:40 PM.
12-11-2010, 09:41 AM
#4
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This is for those of us who want to put in an electric fan and want an automatic switch..
I bought a hayden fan controller but it broke, an I have been using a switch for long time. Forgot to turn it on a couple of times, once crawling through a canyon.
So here is my solution, the OEM fan switch for a Honda bolts right in..
I used a fan switch from a 1990 Honda CRX, screws directly into the coolant drain plug on the drivers side of the motor to right of the exhaust manifold.
It completes a connection at 195 deg and doesn't turn back off for a while.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SMP-TS84/
The "Standard" brand name TS84 has a shorter nub on the end, I think I broke the stock one because it was too long. These can be found for much cheaper, I got mine for $15 it was just the first link.
I have it set up now with three relays in parallel, and a second set of relays on a switch which I will keep until I know the system works perfectly. Later I may use the switch to turn the fan off for those deep water crossings I never do.
I bought a hayden fan controller but it broke, an I have been using a switch for long time. Forgot to turn it on a couple of times, once crawling through a canyon.
So here is my solution, the OEM fan switch for a Honda bolts right in..
I used a fan switch from a 1990 Honda CRX, screws directly into the coolant drain plug on the drivers side of the motor to right of the exhaust manifold.
It completes a connection at 195 deg and doesn't turn back off for a while.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SMP-TS84/
The "Standard" brand name TS84 has a shorter nub on the end, I think I broke the stock one because it was too long. These can be found for much cheaper, I got mine for $15 it was just the first link.
I have it set up now with three relays in parallel, and a second set of relays on a switch which I will keep until I know the system works perfectly. Later I may use the switch to turn the fan off for those deep water crossings I never do.
I understand why u have the switch as a back-up system... just curious why the multiple relay set up...
12-14-2010, 09:31 AM
#5
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Thread Starter
forgot about this post...
The three 40 amp relays in parallel is to cover the high load on start up, two sets were set up that way as I went through several options. I'll probably run the AC on the low fan setting and the thermo switch to the high fan setting.
I am plan on making the fan automatically turn on with the AC (that needs a recharge).
and I may leave the switch in the cab not sure.
Not going to make a switch to turn the fan off, not many water crossings of that depth here in San Diego, and I can always just pull the connector apart on the fan.
The three 40 amp relays in parallel is to cover the high load on start up, two sets were set up that way as I went through several options. I'll probably run the AC on the low fan setting and the thermo switch to the high fan setting.
I am plan on making the fan automatically turn on with the AC (that needs a recharge).
and I may leave the switch in the cab not sure.
Not going to make a switch to turn the fan off, not many water crossings of that depth here in San Diego, and I can always just pull the connector apart on the fan.
12-14-2010, 10:38 AM
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I get it now.... though why not just use a larger cap. single relay? It would be more reliable because there where less components to fail...
the usual practice is for the thermo switch to activate the low setting and the AC switch to activate the high setting. This is because the engine is going to call for cooling more often than the AC (generally) and a "constant" high setting would draw too much power and possibly over cool the engine. Also remember the AC condenser coil is in front of the rad and the fan has to pull the air through both the high setting is more efficient for this.
As for the auto on with the aC that's easy... just tap the fan relay set inline with the AC power line. Check the polarities though remember Toyota likes to use a switched ground for things not a switched "hot" like NA mfgs. {I don't know if this is the case with the AC switch I don't have the schematic open in front of me just now.
the usual practice is for the thermo switch to activate the low setting and the AC switch to activate the high setting. This is because the engine is going to call for cooling more often than the AC (generally) and a "constant" high setting would draw too much power and possibly over cool the engine. Also remember the AC condenser coil is in front of the rad and the fan has to pull the air through both the high setting is more efficient for this.
As for the auto on with the aC that's easy... just tap the fan relay set inline with the AC power line. Check the polarities though remember Toyota likes to use a switched ground for things not a switched "hot" like NA mfgs. {I don't know if this is the case with the AC switch I don't have the schematic open in front of me just now.
12-15-2010, 12:14 PM
#7
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Thread Starter
I get it now.... though why not just use a larger cap. single relay? It would be more reliable because there where less components to fail...
the usual practice is for the thermo switch to activate the low setting and the AC switch to activate the high setting. This is because the engine is going to call for cooling more often than the AC (generally) and a "constant" high setting would draw too much power and possibly over cool the engine. Also remember the AC condenser coil is in front of the rad and the fan has to pull the air through both the high setting is more efficient for this.
As for the auto on with the aC that's easy... just tap the fan relay set inline with the AC power line. Check the polarities though remember Toyota likes to use a switched ground for things not a switched "hot" like NA mfgs. {I don't know if this is the case with the AC switch I don't have the schematic open in front of me just now.
the usual practice is for the thermo switch to activate the low setting and the AC switch to activate the high setting. This is because the engine is going to call for cooling more often than the AC (generally) and a "constant" high setting would draw too much power and possibly over cool the engine. Also remember the AC condenser coil is in front of the rad and the fan has to pull the air through both the high setting is more efficient for this.
As for the auto on with the aC that's easy... just tap the fan relay set inline with the AC power line. Check the polarities though remember Toyota likes to use a switched ground for things not a switched "hot" like NA mfgs. {I don't know if this is the case with the AC switch I don't have the schematic open in front of me just now.
wiring should be fine for the AC, super easy with blade connectors if I remember right.
If OEM usually goes High for AC and low for Engine, I will do the same.
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12-16-2010, 09:31 AM
#8
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Being in SanD you may want to add a switch so you can turn on the high fan without turning on the AC. I think the OEM can do that for cases where the low fan cannot keep up like in very hot conditions with low airflow like traffic jams and so on...
Just a thought... of course in those conditions you'd have the ac on anyway so...
Just a thought... of course in those conditions you'd have the ac on anyway so...
12-16-2010, 09:55 AM
#9
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yeah, I would like to make a set up that would just start low for engine or AC, then kick to high if both are on..
have to see if I can find a simple route for that
have to see if I can find a simple route for that
02-28-2012, 12:06 PM
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Thanks Outsane. I should have been more clear about what I was asking for. How about a pic of where you installed the Electric Fan Switch.
I see you did this for the 22re. What was the thread? M12?
Anyone find a thread location to use on the 3VZE?
I see you did this for the 22re. What was the thread? M12?
Anyone find a thread location to use on the 3VZE?
02-28-2012, 12:16 PM
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Be careful using relays in parallel like that.
What will probably eventually happen is one relay will stop working first, leaving the other 2 over loaded.
Then eventually relay #2 will die faster (because of higher load)
Then relay #3 will die an even faster super overloaded death!
How many amps does that fan pull on start up?
What will probably eventually happen is one relay will stop working first, leaving the other 2 over loaded.
Then eventually relay #2 will die faster (because of higher load)
Then relay #3 will die an even faster super overloaded death!
How many amps does that fan pull on start up?
02-28-2012, 12:38 PM
#14
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Thread Starter
Correct relay made for continous use would be a better option, I still need to source one..
there is a lot of info here..https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...61/index7.html
I am currently using a totally different set up now..
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f131...roller-244645/
no pics yet it was raining yesterday
there is a lot of info here..https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...61/index7.html
I am currently using a totally different set up now..
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f131...roller-244645/
no pics yet it was raining yesterday
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