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Old 03-01-2007, 08:37 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Installed a simple 375wt Power Inverter *PICS*

Nothing to brag about, but thought I'd post up some pics of a 375wt Power Inverter I installed...while in all places - on vacation.

I took an idea out of member J.A.'s book and purchased a 375wt Power Inverter. It's nice b/c of its compact size and the fact that it can plug into any aux. outlet in your vehicle.

The cord attached to the unit is only 3ft long. For it to reach where I wanted to install it, meant either lengthening the cord or bring the power source closer. I did not want to see any wires, so I decided to bring the power source closer.

I bought a seperate aux. outlet for $5.00 at Walmart and installed it under the passenger's seat. (There was already a hole there, so I just purchased a bolt, lock washer and wing nut to secure it to the seat.) I simply tapped into the existing cigarette lighter (that I never use) and ran the wires under the trim and under the carpet:


375wt Power Inverter:



Aux Outlet Installed under Passenger's Seat:



Unit Installed:






I've already used it to:

-listen to a radio...w/ a 30ft extension cord attached to it to hear the sound better while grilling out.
-charge my 18vt Cordless drill while working outside on a house w/o electricity.
-charge my buddy's cell phone, b/c he forgot his car and wall charger. (Go figure.)
-hooked up a 13" TV
-Played video games
-and the list goes on.


This unit will sense when your battery is getting low on juice and emit beeps to make you aware of it. If you continue to allow the unit to operate, it will eventually shut off automatically when your battery reaches a certain point as to not drain your battery completely.


For $40, not a bad investment.
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Mods: Disabled DRLs, Disabled Keyless Entry Chirp, Disabled VTRAC/VSC/ABS, Fog Light Mod, Air Elbow Mod, Ashtray Mod, Mud Flap Mod, Rear Diff Breather Mod

Last edited by Rock Slide : 09-24-2007 at 08:27 AM.
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Old 03-02-2007, 04:17 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I have the exact same unit and use it all the time to operate my computer when working out of my car. I packed it on an airplane all the way to Canada to use it out of our rental car to power a blender at a music festival. Unfortunately the blender worked for only about 20 secs. before blowing the fuse in the Ford Escape (unfortunately toyotas were not available for rent). Needless to say, I changed out every nonessential fuse to run the blender and we made Margaritas to combat the heat

Your install looks real good! Don't forget to pack extra fuses if you want mixed drinks.
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Old 03-03-2007, 04:07 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Nice install. One of these days i need to get mine installed too.
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Old 03-03-2007, 02:53 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goin View Post
I have the exact same unit and use it all the time to operate my computer when working out of my car. I packed it on an airplane all the way to Canada to use it out of our rental car to power a blender at a music festival. Unfortunately the blender worked for only about 20 secs. before blowing the fuse in the Ford Escape (unfortunately toyotas were not available for rent). Needless to say, I changed out every nonessential fuse to run the blender and we made Margaritas to combat the heat

Your install looks real good! Don't forget to pack extra fuses if you want mixed drinks.

Cool! It's amazing what all you can use this thing for.

Great idea on the fuses. I'll go buy a handful of them today when I go to the hardware store later.


Quote:
Originally Posted by rocket View Post
Nice install. One of these days i need to get mine installed too.
Thanks. It's also nice just to have another aux outlet under the seat if need be.
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Mods: Disabled DRLs, Disabled Keyless Entry Chirp, Disabled VTRAC/VSC/ABS, Fog Light Mod, Air Elbow Mod, Ashtray Mod, Mud Flap Mod, Rear Diff Breather Mod
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Old 03-05-2007, 06:08 PM   #5 (permalink)
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You might consider running fused cable from the battery, as you proablyy will not be able to get all the potential out of that inverter running it on the cigarette lighter circuit (which is probably only 10A). If you are blowing the cigarette lighter fuse, it is because the circuit is overloaded and it is cutting the power before you burn up the tiny wires, and possibly your vehicle. You should use thicker gauge wire with a fuse a couple inches from the battery. Do a google on "wire gauge chart" (or similar) and you can find charts which say what gauge wire you should use for your power needs.

325 watts at 14vDC is 23 amps, most inverters claim double their wattage for surge loads which would make a peak of 46A load on the puny stock wiring. They really shouldn't even have a cigarette lighter plug on the inverter...

Nice neat install, though. I did a very similar install, under the driver seat of my LX450, ran new cable/fuses, w/an 850/1700w inverter. It's out of the way, but easily accessible.
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Last edited by firemedic : 03-05-2007 at 06:11 PM.
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Old 03-08-2007, 07:54 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by firemedic View Post
You might consider running fused cable from the battery, as you proablyy will not be able to get all the potential out of that inverter running it on the cigarette lighter circuit (which is probably only 10A). If you are blowing the cigarette lighter fuse, it is because the circuit is overloaded and it is cutting the power before you burn up the tiny wires, and possibly your vehicle. You should use thicker gauge wire with a fuse a couple inches from the battery. Do a google on "wire gauge chart" (or similar) and you can find charts which say what gauge wire you should use for your power needs.

325 watts at 14vDC is 23 amps, most inverters claim double their wattage for surge loads which would make a peak of 46A load on the puny stock wiring. They really shouldn't even have a cigarette lighter plug on the inverter...

Nice neat install, though. I did a very similar install, under the driver seat of my LX450, ran new cable/fuses, w/an 850/1700w inverter. It's out of the way, but easily accessible.
I have not blown any fuses yet, (knock on wood), but running bigger cables straight to the battery w/ inline fuses isn't a bad idea. I'll definitely look into that.

I would've preferred a larger inverter, but w/ an amp going in under my driver's seat for my radio and the rear heater fan located under the passenger's seat, I'm limited for space.

Great suggestions though, thanks.
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Accessories: SS 7.1 Lift Kit, WabFab 1" BL, TJM T15, Stubb Sliders, FX/TSX HID Headlight Retrofit, 1st Gen Rollbar, Tundra Brake Upgrade, Hilux Surf Field Monitor, TRD I.S. Wheels, Nitto TG 265/75s, Hella HID 4000s, Tint, Black Pearl Emblems, Clear Corners, TRD Decals, JBL Door Speakers

Mods: Disabled DRLs, Disabled Keyless Entry Chirp, Disabled VTRAC/VSC/ABS, Fog Light Mod, Air Elbow Mod, Ashtray Mod, Mud Flap Mod, Rear Diff Breather Mod
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Old 03-04-2008, 02:20 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Alright, I'm looking into doing one of these as well. I want to mount a 400/800peak power inverter in the BACK of my 4Runner, because there is already an amp under the passenger seat, and because I want it in the back. I'm looking at mounting it in those little compartments in the rear of my 2nd gen 4Runner. I'm also looking at adding a 12V out let back there. Has any one done this in the back? I'm looking to do the direct wire, to the battery, but I'm wondering what size wires I need, and how many amp fuse, and whether I can just ground to the frame in the rear, rather than run two separate cables all the way back. Thanks

BTW, nice install.
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Old 03-04-2008, 05:24 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Bump for some help...
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1994 Toyota 4Runner SR5 4X4
208,000 miles and counting
3.0 V6, 5 speed
14/19 MPG city/hwy(before 33's)
Current Mods
Headers, 2.5" Flowmaster custom exhaust, K&N FIPK
KC Daylighter 100 Watt lights
Ranchos x4, 2" Lift Downey coils
33-12.50 M/T's, 1" t-bar lift, 1" body lift
Tow pkg w/ lighthookups
Silverstar Headlights, Pioneer Deck w/XM
Brushguard
250Watt JLAudio 8" W3 Sub

Future Mods
12V Aux outlet-400/800peak inverter
roof basket/lights
Air locker
4.88 gears
H.O. Alternator
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Old 03-04-2008, 06:38 PM   #9 (permalink)
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1994 Toyota 4Runner SR5 4X4
208,000 miles and counting
3.0 V6, 5 speed
14/19 MPG city/hwy(before 33's)
Current Mods
Headers, 2.5" Flowmaster custom exhaust, K&N FIPK
KC Daylighter 100 Watt lights
Ranchos x4, 2" Lift Downey coils
33-12.50 M/T's, 1" t-bar lift, 1" body lift
Tow pkg w/ lighthookups
Silverstar Headlights, Pioneer Deck w/XM
Brushguard
250Watt JLAudio 8" W3 Sub

Future Mods
12V Aux outlet-400/800peak inverter
roof basket/lights
Air locker
4.88 gears
H.O. Alternator
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Old 03-04-2008, 08:21 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I did that about 10 years ago in my 1st gen:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...werPoint.shtml



As far as wire size, look up the current and distance the wires will carry that current:
- http://www.affordable-solar.com/wire.charts.htm

And for amps, take the inverter watts and divide by 12, so 800 peaks watts = 66 peak amps more or less, or for the 400 watt continuous rating, 33 amps.
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