Extremeair/ARB locker install has started (need help)
06-05-2004, 12:03 PM
#121
Hush yo mouf
Originally Posted by sdastg1
... and whatever you do, keep Brian away from the install! 
j/k
j/k
06-05-2004, 03:21 PM
#122
Aw, come on Brian, you mean you actually WANT to get dirty??? 
I'll probally just pull the third and have someone install the locker and put in new bearings while they're at it. So, I've only got about 6-7k miles on new RP gear lube in the rear diff. When I drain it, I'm thinking of catching it and reusing it since it's like liquid GOLD. Any problems with doing that?
I'll probally just pull the third and have someone install the locker and put in new bearings while they're at it. So, I've only got about 6-7k miles on new RP gear lube in the rear diff. When I drain it, I'm thinking of catching it and reusing it since it's like liquid GOLD. Any problems with doing that?
01-17-2006, 08:37 PM
#126
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ok guys, ive looked and looked, but cant the answer to my question, and the question is :
I have the extreme outback compressor, im going to hard mount it, but IF i add a tank, will it fill up the tires faster ?
i only use it to air up.
thankx..
I have the extreme outback compressor, im going to hard mount it, but IF i add a tank, will it fill up the tires faster ?
i only use it to air up.
thankx..
01-17-2006, 08:46 PM
#127
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If you pre-fill the tank, the first tire will go MUCH faster. Then, as you move from tire to tire, when you are not filling a tire, the compressor will run and partially fill the tank, resulting in quick surge of air when you start to fill another.
However, once that surge is gone, the compressor is now trying to fill the volume of the tank along with the volume of the tire, so it will actually be slower.
All else being equal, for exclusively filling tires, I wouldn't bother.
However, once that surge is gone, the compressor is now trying to fill the volume of the tank along with the volume of the tire, so it will actually be slower.
All else being equal, for exclusively filling tires, I wouldn't bother.
Last edited by WATRD; 01-17-2006 at 08:48 PM.
01-17-2006, 09:15 PM
#130
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Originally Posted by Ric
WATRD,
thankx for a quick reply. i wont worry about the tank then.
thankx for a quick reply. i wont worry about the tank then.
The ideal set up would be a tank that filled only when the pressure in the line rose beyond a certain point, indicating that the chuck was not on a tire, dumped suddenly when the chuck was hooked up, then got out of line until the pressure went back up.
01-17-2006, 09:19 PM
#131
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garrett1478,
i was thinking about right next to the battery, i cant seem to find the thread with a pic.
edit:
duhhh it was on the first page of this thread, here the pics of what im thinking about
i may flip it, to keep the fliter up higher.
i was thinking about right next to the battery, i cant seem to find the thread with a pic.
edit:
duhhh it was on the first page of this thread, here the pics of what im thinking about
i may flip it, to keep the fliter up higher.
Last edited by Ric; 01-17-2006 at 09:28 PM.
01-17-2006, 11:07 PM
#132
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Originally Posted by LarsDennert
I had regular air hose melt right at the fitting coming out of the compressor. When it melts, it pops off the fitting even with a clamp on it. I use about 2 feet of fuel line to the water separator and then regular cheapy air hose for the rest of the system. I think the compressor cylinder head soaked heat into the hose. I don't think it was so much the temperature of the air coming out that did it. Some air hose may be more heat resistant than other. Mine didn't stand up to the heat.
I did it your way with the ARB compressor too. The difference being that the ARB has a tank so the distance to the hose is great enough to disapate the heat. I ran that way for a few years. Now I run a separate manifold:
I did it your way with the ARB compressor too. The difference being that the ARB has a tank so the distance to the hose is great enough to disapate the heat. I ran that way for a few years. Now I run a separate manifold:
I got 125 length of hose if that means anythig! (Synthti!)
01-18-2006, 08:44 AM
#134
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I have a similar compressor and used a two gallon tank in the form of my sliders. For me it is ideal. Too big a tank and you won't get a benefit as others have said. You're going to have to think about how to start and stop that thing so it doesn't over pressurize. Besides a pressure switch that I need to regulate the system and keep the lockers happy, I use a purge check valve that unpressurizes the compressor head after a fill cycle. It allows easy restarts. I mounted mine behind the front bumper. There is enough space and the engine doesn't overheat the compressor. If you havent' already, see this page http://www.larsdennert.com/4runner/compressor
Last edited by LarsDennert; 01-18-2006 at 08:46 AM.
01-18-2006, 09:34 AM
#135
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waskillywabbit,
will do. ive already talked to the guys at Extreme outback, but we will see..
LarsDennert,
i have seen that page, thankx, but its been awhile. do you happen to have any more pics of the compressor mounting ? im either thinking about mounting it, next to the battery, or in front of the radiator behind the grill, almost in the exact spot you have it.
will do. ive already talked to the guys at Extreme outback, but we will see..
LarsDennert,
i have seen that page, thankx, but its been awhile. do you happen to have any more pics of the compressor mounting ? im either thinking about mounting it, next to the battery, or in front of the radiator behind the grill, almost in the exact spot you have it.
01-18-2006, 11:36 AM
#136
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I'm sweating the same thing. I want to go next to the battery, but I haven't figured out what all that entails. What I've surmised thus far is:
1. Replace battery with an Optima (smaller footprint)
2. Make custom battery tray to get more room
3. Extend battery cables if necessary
4. Do something clever (???) with the radiator overflow tank
5. Build a custom mount either off the battery area?? or ...?
I'd love to hear "here's a custom bracket you can weld on to avoid all that", but I think that's a wee bit optmistic!
Any more details on the setup macgyver had posted would be awesome!
1. Replace battery with an Optima (smaller footprint)
2. Make custom battery tray to get more room
3. Extend battery cables if necessary
4. Do something clever (???) with the radiator overflow tank
5. Build a custom mount either off the battery area?? or ...?
I'd love to hear "here's a custom bracket you can weld on to avoid all that", but I think that's a wee bit optmistic!
Any more details on the setup macgyver had posted would be awesome!
01-18-2006, 11:46 AM
#137
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Scottiac,
what battery do you have ? ive got the Yellow Optima, ive just slid it over, (as far as it would go) and the extreme compressor will fit, i might try this weekend to make a cardboard mock up of some kind of bracket..
i also would love to see more on the "macgyver set up"
what battery do you have ? ive got the Yellow Optima, ive just slid it over, (as far as it would go) and the extreme compressor will fit, i might try this weekend to make a cardboard mock up of some kind of bracket..
i also would love to see more on the "macgyver set up"
01-18-2006, 11:53 AM
#139
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I'll get whatever dang battery I need to pull it off! I found some more snaps on the macgyver setup in two other threads. Look in:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...ght=compressor
and page 4 right after it.
Also, there's a little bit more in:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...ght=compressor
If you figure out something that works, and are willing to duplicate the brackets, that would be REALLY awesome.
I found some more snaps on the macgyver setup in two other threads. Look in:https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...ght=compressor
and page 4 right after it.
Also, there's a little bit more in:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...ght=compressor
If you figure out something that works, and are willing to duplicate the brackets, that would be REALLY awesome.
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