nui

Howdy

So after having to get my car towed back 300km's last weekend due to a leaking injector, I pulled it apart this morning and think I have found the cause...





Would this cause the injector to leak severely ? ?

All the injectors were ultra sonically cleaned and new o-rings etc put on them less then 3 months ago, so i am assuming that faulty installation is the cause of this as the other 3 are fine ??

Now that I have taken them all out for inspection, do I need to fit new o-rings prior to installing them again or will they be OK ?

Also, can the injector leak internally and find its way out of the section between the actual injector and the electrical connection ? or is that all molded together and no possible to leak ?

Secondly..

On the fuel rail, there are two items, one is the fuel pressure regulator, and the other I don't know what it is ?

Regulator : ? (on the return end)



and this I don't know ? (on the incoming end)



For this other one, there is a small Phillips screw in the center of that top hat looking thing that can be screwed in to open the valve and allow less restriction, or screwed out to add restriction. I am guessing this is the regulator ? But everywhere I read seems to indicate that the regulator has a vacuum line attached to it, like the first pic does.

My screw is fully wound in which is allowing NO restriction, so does this mean my fuel pressure will be incorrect , and is this how I adjust it but screwing that screw until I get the correct reading of a fuel pressure gauge ?

Lastly, what are the affects of running fuel pressure too high or too low ?
I am running a microtech ecu which has been tuned according to the way the fuel pressure was (incorrectly) set ...

Thanks a lot for your help guys

Matt

LD

your preasure regulator is in the back of the rail (w/vacume line). on the front of the rail is your pulsation damper. I know the regulator is not adjustable. I believe the damper also is not. the screw might just be for assembly or inspection something. Yea, Bad fuel preasure: crappy idle , drivability problems, too low at high r's prob loss of power.

LD

Oh, and buy a full injector o-ring and bushing set for reinstall. cheap at most auto parts stores.

dillsmack

so if there is no vacuum line coming off the regulator on the back of the rail what problem or symptoms would this cause. (there is nothing on mine!!! and truck won't start but i'm not sure Why).

LD

install a vac line from the regulator to a port on the back of the air chamber. or if you have a fuel pressure vsv mounted to the back of the valve cover, plug it into that, and a vac line coming off the other side of the vsv plugs into the port on the air chamber. Not having it, I think could only cause some hot soak start issues, at most.

24Runna

Yup, improper installation of the injectors, I did the same thing.

After you get new o-rings, dip your finger in gas and put it on the o-ring, then twist it clockwise and counter clockwise til it is in, and make sure it rotates freely.

After you put them in, make sure everything is tight, and test it, short two terminals on the diag. port, B+ and FP I believe and let it run for about 30 seconds or so, checking for leaks. Good luck!

deejaysterling

i had this same problem, i forgot to put my injector seals in and it leaked gas.
new rubber seals and it was all good.

although now i have a problem with the pulsation damper bolt.

there is a copper washer that came out of it when i unscrewed it and now i can't remember if that washer goes top of the bolt or bottom of bolt.

anyone have any knowledge of how the pulsation damper bolt is put back on?

i mean it's strait forward ,just scew it in, duh, but this copper washer is making me ask questions. i don't wan't to start it and it leaks gas again,
(i have no working fire ext.)

anybody seen any pics of the pulsation damper bolt being installed?
this thread is pretty old, don't know if i'll get any responses....

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Fuel pressure will be too high at idle, making the engine run too rich:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ne_Pix/10.html

It'll run w/o that line, but I find the engine loads up under acceleration until you hit about 2500 RPM.

@hab

Link below shows the correct assembly.
http://www.utoyot8.com/FullImage.asp...22REC%2c22RTEC

I had the same problem after replacing the injector o-rings/grommets. It was leaking around the same top copper washer. I took the damper bolt off with everything else still in place (careful not to smash the injectors wiring harness right next to it) and flipped the washer around. Didn't leak after that.

Prolly better to just replace that washer with a new one.

sebastianholmes

witchhunter's website says to use a little bit of oil on the O ring when you reinstall, i had to redo my number 3 injector FOUR times. talk about PISSED. i finally looked up stuff and read that on their site and when i put it back in i just opened my oil cap got a little on my finger and rubbed it around the O ring, twisted it in and it felt like a hot knife in buter just popped righ in and no problems whatsoever after a week and a half

mikedunn1999

On the fuel pressure pulsation damper bolt, the copper washers go on each side of the banjo fuel line coming in from the fuel filter.

bryy

on the link posted eairlier it shows two different part numbers for copper washers are they different size, which size goes where?