SublimeBoa

Just wondering if there is a respectable ½ shaft manufacturer out there, besides Toyota OEM?

I priced OEM and looked around on line a bit, and it appears I could get both sides for ½ the price of one side OEM. I don't know, I buy a lot of OEM stuff for my 95 SR5, but I have a hard time believing in this case that it's going to perform THAT much better.

So, is there a decent brand out there that will hold up the avg 4 wheeling? My truck is stock, so I don't push it at all when I go. Mostly need it for sand or gravel.

While I'm on the subject, I broke the drivers side, naturally a LONG way from home. And tried to pack some rags into the gap created when the bearings went flying, so I could try and limp home without too much binding and clanking of metal. I limped for 120 miles like that, repacking the rags every so often, and was finally forced to remove the half shaft with the little tools I had, because it quit working. After some amout of effort, and purchasing a hammer so I could break the nuts loose, I actually managed to get it off roadside, without even jacking it up.

My question would be, will the replacement go in the same way? Or will I actuall have to release and swing out the rotar assembly? Anyone ever try it with all 4 wheels planted? I'm gonna try it that way first. If I get it, I'll let y'all know about it.

Oh yeah, I'm new here. Neat place. Lots of info too.
Rick

T4L

Welcome to Yotatech, Rick. Get some lifetime ones from Autozone or Advanced. After core charge, I think they were about $75 each.

T4L

Old next to new.

SublimeBoa

You say Duralast eh. Know anything about the Cardone's? I think that's another brand out there, about the same price. I haven't had the best of luck with car CV joints made by Duralast, a ½ shaft really ain't that much different in make up. Makes me wonder some.

Thanks for the input and welcome..
Rick

T4L

Don't know about the Cardones. I have the Duralast. I checked the sales slip, it was $100 for the pair. It was the lifetime replacement that sold me.

crafthorse

I run Duralast CVs, and do light to moderate wheeling, no problems, price and LLT Warranty sold me. No problems yet with mine been running for about 6 months. I have manual locking hubs, so that helps with wear on my CVs, you might think about doing a swap if you have ADDs.

AxleIke

I beat on mine pretty good.

IMO, there is no comparison between OEM and aftermarket. OEM is hands down the strongest you can get.

Now, if your rig isn't getting beat on and/or you have small tires, aftermarket is fine, and the Autozone ones are a favorite out here. They have a lifetime waranty and are 75 dollars after the core is refunded.

I would never buy new OEM. Plenty of used axles out there that can be cleaned up, and re-booted/greased, and perform outstanding.

Best used vehicles to find them in are trucks with manual hubs: less wear.

SublimeBoa

Thanks for the input everyone. I'm absorbing it all.

I do prefer OEM, and usually go ahead and spend the extra $ for it. But usually, OEM is about twice the cost of after market. In this case, it's 4 times that of after market, so that's why I'm checking into other brands.

Now used, I hadn't considered or even thought of. It's nothing to clean, repack and reboot the ½ shaft. Might have to look into that. We have a couple junk yards around.

Got a question though, what is it you mean by ADDs?? My rig is a 95 SR5 4Runner, 3.0L, Auto, running on 31x10.5 BFG KO's (stock tire I think). I have non locker front end. You saying this set up wears them out faster? Didn't know that.

Thanks for sharing.
Rick

Windsor

ADD is the 4wd disconnect on newer 4runners without manual hubs.

AxleIke

With ADD, your driver side axle disconnects from the diff by way of a vacuum actuated collar. This allows a very low resistance out for the passenger side axle, and thus, the driveshaft no longer turns.

But, both of your CVs turn all the time on an ADD equiped truck.

Trucks with manual hubs will likely have been driven with the hubs unlocked for most of their lives, and thus, have less wear. Thats why you should look for manual hubbed trucks when getting replacements.

tc

If you get the duralast ones from AutoZone, you want part number 7412.

NOT 7412N - the difference is "N" is for "new", using whatever steel they get. The 7412 ones are remanned factory, and actually seem to be a bit stronger (and they're cheaper).

Mine hold up reasonably OK considering hard 'wheeling with a HEAVY rig and dual cases. Still takes some stupid driving to break them ... and usually I break the actual shaft, not the joint.

AxleIke

True. Though you always seem to break in some weird-ass way. Like tangling a CV in a brake line.

tc

When I get stuck, I get stuck big and when I break I break big!

SublimeBoa

Well, I wasn't doing any hard wheeling when it broke. The stupid part on me was testing the 4WD in sand to make sure everything was turning right, but not actually crawling up underneath to inspect things. The truck was in great condition when I bought it, and I took it for granted that everything underneath was as good as the inside, outside and engine appeared to be. Turns out, both boots were torn, and the drivers side didn't even have any boot left. So I guess I been gathering desert dust for the last year. As soon as I needed the 4WD, I twisted the outer joint in half. Next time I look underneath as well. I know better, just didn't do it.

Interesting about the part number thing. How did you find out that sort of info? And is there anyway to guarantee a remanufactured OEM part, and not a remanufactured Duralast?

Anyway, I got plenty of time to make my choice since work usually keeps me too busy to get the truck out much more then one weekend a month anyway. So I'll keep researching and gathering info for now.

Thanks for all the replies.
Rick

tc

They told me. They had a hard time finding the 7412, so "upgraded" me to the -N for free. The bad thing is that now "downgrading" is nearly impossible.

I don't think you CAN guarantee, just your chances are really good, and chances non-existent with the -N ones!