Newbie Help - installing Leaf Springs
08-25-2010, 02:05 PM
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Newbie Help - installing Leaf Springs
Hi guys... Sorry for the super noob question here... 
but I just got done with my body lift on my 98 Taco... and now I'm getting ready to add my suspension lift -- Toytec coil overs with Bilstien 5100's... and for the back I'm putting in new leaf springs.
I believe the springs I'm getting are skyjacker 2.5" lift springs...
my coil-overs are comin' preassembled so I can just bolt them on...
so my question is.... can I install those leaf springs myself...
I seem to remember being in the shop getting new springs on my 81 Yota about 15 years ago... and it was a son of B****... trying to get those things on....
I don't have a shop, I got a some tools...
but am I gonna need anything special to do this... I don't have herculean strength or any tools to bend these suckers into place...
do they just pretty much bolt on without hassle usually... or do I need 3 power lifters and a 10 foot breaker bar to get these things on...
I'm already spending more than I should, I'd like to avoid another $500 in labor if I can help it.
thanks for the input
but I just got done with my body lift on my 98 Taco... and now I'm getting ready to add my suspension lift -- Toytec coil overs with Bilstien 5100's... and for the back I'm putting in new leaf springs.
I believe the springs I'm getting are skyjacker 2.5" lift springs...
my coil-overs are comin' preassembled so I can just bolt them on...
so my question is.... can I install those leaf springs myself...
I seem to remember being in the shop getting new springs on my 81 Yota about 15 years ago... and it was a son of B****... trying to get those things on....
I don't have a shop, I got a some tools...
but am I gonna need anything special to do this... I don't have herculean strength or any tools to bend these suckers into place...
do they just pretty much bolt on without hassle usually... or do I need 3 power lifters and a 10 foot breaker bar to get these things on...
I'm already spending more than I should, I'd like to avoid another $500 in labor if I can help it.
thanks for the input
08-26-2010, 06:25 AM
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No special tools..You will need some tall jackstands, because you are going to have to support the vehicle by the frame. You also may want to start hitting the bolts with PB Blaster now so by the time you go to take them off it should be easy.
08-26-2010, 08:37 AM
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That's a darn good idea.. I just bought a can yesterday. thanks
08-26-2010, 08:58 AM
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if you dont have air tools, you'll want a breaker bar, i used the shaft of my low-pro floor jack and put my half inch drive socket wrench into it, worked like a charm!
helps to have a larger set of jack stands (for the frame) and a shorter pair (for the axle)
grease your bushings!
4 lbs mallet helps a lot too!
use a lot of PB and let it sit, i soaked it over night, on both sides of shackle/frame.
helps to have a larger set of jack stands (for the frame) and a shorter pair (for the axle)
grease your bushings!
4 lbs mallet helps a lot too!
use a lot of PB and let it sit, i soaked it over night, on both sides of shackle/frame.
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08-28-2010, 12:24 AM
#8
In all the leaf springs I have changed on these vehicles that were on from new.
i just cut the u-bolts with a zip disc.
The real pain is the front shackle bolt it just bonds with the metal sleeve in the bushing . The nut comes right off but I always end up cutting the bolt flush with the hanger and just pry it out one side at a time.
** If anyone has a better way I am ready to learn!!!
The rears i just cut off also and put the New Parts kit in from Toyota.
After fighting hours the first time I always do it this way.
You will also need your floor jack to support the rear so you can lower it to allow you to get the old springs out and new ones back in .
i always use new u-bolts because they are cheap and I don`t have a lot of time to play around.
Good luck As it is your first time I would bet on a good day maybe longer.
i just cut the u-bolts with a zip disc.
The real pain is the front shackle bolt it just bonds with the metal sleeve in the bushing . The nut comes right off but I always end up cutting the bolt flush with the hanger and just pry it out one side at a time.
** If anyone has a better way I am ready to learn!!!
The rears i just cut off also and put the New Parts kit in from Toyota.
After fighting hours the first time I always do it this way.
You will also need your floor jack to support the rear so you can lower it to allow you to get the old springs out and new ones back in .
i always use new u-bolts because they are cheap and I don`t have a lot of time to play around.
Good luck As it is your first time I would bet on a good day maybe longer.
08-28-2010, 05:38 AM
#9
In all the leaf springs I have changed on these vehicles that were on from new.
i just cut the u-bolts with a zip disc.
The real pain is the front shackle bolt it just bonds with the metal sleeve in the bushing . The nut comes right off but I always end up cutting the bolt flush with the hanger and just pry it out one side at a time.
** If anyone has a better way I am ready to learn!!!
i just cut the u-bolts with a zip disc.
The real pain is the front shackle bolt it just bonds with the metal sleeve in the bushing . The nut comes right off but I always end up cutting the bolt flush with the hanger and just pry it out one side at a time.
** If anyone has a better way I am ready to learn!!!
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/TLCA_Tru...ech.04.01.html
Those bolts tend to rust to the steel sleeve inside the spring bushing. You need to break the grip of the rust to get it out. If its on the driver’s side, try hammering the end of the bolt, leaving the nut on the end. Another option to try is some heat from a torch to heat up the bolt. Or try a thin pry bar between the spring hanger and try to press down on the sleeve while prying against the hanger and bolt head. Often you can get enough pressure on the sleeve for the teeth on it to dig into the opposite side of the hanger and hold it in place so you can turn the bolt and break it free. Some PB Blaster or other penetrating oil might help if you can get it into the sleeve. If all else fails, a Sawzall or cutoff wheel will cut the bolt apart to get it out, then replace it with a 9/16” SAE or M14 bolts.
08-28-2010, 04:22 PM
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Thanks Roger!
I just received the Bed Spacers today... I probably won't install them until next weekend.... and a week or two after that, hopefully I can tackle the rear springs.
Thanks for all your help with my body lift, I really appreciate it. =)
While I'm at it... thanks to Wabbit and the rest of you for all the help, without Yotatech.. I wouldn't dream of tackling this stuff on my own... now.. I'm not sure if I trust anyone else to do it! hahaha.
I just received the Bed Spacers today... I probably won't install them until next weekend.... and a week or two after that, hopefully I can tackle the rear springs.
Thanks for all your help with my body lift, I really appreciate it. =)
While I'm at it... thanks to Wabbit and the rest of you for all the help, without Yotatech.. I wouldn't dream of tackling this stuff on my own... now.. I'm not sure if I trust anyone else to do it! hahaha.
Last edited by Yota_Stomper; 08-28-2010 at 04:24 PM.
08-29-2010, 12:08 AM
#11
Maybe in your climate in California you are able to sometimes break those bolts loose.
Here on the east coast with the damp and the winter slop and salt and now this liquid that is much worse.
You name it I tried it just had the sleeve spinning in the bushing . I have heard of people using a torch to burn off the bushing the rubber not the bolt .
I don`t look at that as a step up
Since I keep the bolts and rear shackle kits on hand and ubolts
Here on the east coast with the damp and the winter slop and salt and now this liquid that is much worse.
You name it I tried it just had the sleeve spinning in the bushing . I have heard of people using a torch to burn off the bushing the rubber not the bolt .
I don`t look at that as a step up
Since I keep the bolts and rear shackle kits on hand and ubolts
10-13-2010, 10:42 AM
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Looks like I'm gonna have my friends shop Retemper the rear springs?
for under $300 they'll do the work and retemper and rebend my rear springs.
they new springs alone will cost me $500.. then I have to do all the work myself..
So looks like I'll just install my front struts and then have the shop do the rear end
to match the lift...
any reason I shouldn't do this?
for under $300 they'll do the work and retemper and rebend my rear springs.
they new springs alone will cost me $500.. then I have to do all the work myself..
So looks like I'll just install my front struts and then have the shop do the rear end
to match the lift...
any reason I shouldn't do this?
12-13-2012, 09:25 PM
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Looks like I'm gonna have my friends shop Retemper the rear springs?
for under $300 they'll do the work and retemper and rebend my rear springs.
they new springs alone will cost me $500.. then I have to do all the work myself..
So looks like I'll just install my front struts and then have the shop do the rear end
to match the lift...
any reason I shouldn't do this?
for under $300 they'll do the work and retemper and rebend my rear springs.
they new springs alone will cost me $500.. then I have to do all the work myself..
So looks like I'll just install my front struts and then have the shop do the rear end
to match the lift...
any reason I shouldn't do this?
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