4x4YOTA

iTrader: (2)

ok so my water pump is leaking to the point my truck is not drivable so any body have any reconmendations for doing this I dont have money for a mechanic so Im doing it myself and I read that I have to pull my timing belt to do so whats the best way to do this to change out the gasket

4x4CPOSEADOG

It is easy to do. Just buy all the parts you need and tackle this job on the week end. The water pump from the dealer comes with a gasket and already has a rubber seal. You can do it.

Jay351

Don't change the gasket, change the pump AND gasket

4x4YOTA

iTrader: (2)

I dont have money for a new pump

drew303

if the pump is leaking out the gasket, then just re-use the pump but pumps are pretty cheap ~$30

I've had great succes NOT using RTV but im sure a mass will disagree. I've tried several times w/ rtv (granted 22r) ive just not had success. I think it's one of those situations/parts that you can get away w/out a gasket sealer.

Im not familiar w/ the 3.0's water pump but typically on most motors it's rather easy job. Pull the belts, and most cases the radiator fan and your only a few bolts from removing it and a few bolts from putting a new one back on.

4x4YOTA

iTrader: (2)

my water pump runs off my timing belt not fan belt

drew303

Like I said im not that familiar w/ the 3vze. Im sure theres threads on doing this if you search.

chugs

it's not a difficult job at all, i would advise getting a new water pump as well, not very expensive. Removal and installation of pump is straight forward, clean the surfaces, gasket, sealant applied, torque nuts. Only thing u gotta make sure u do is make sure pulley mark is at zero, tdc on cam gears should be at correct position, mark time belt where tdc marks are at so you can reinstall belt at the same position. Other than that, it should only take you a few hours.

Mr_Martinez1982

i agree, buy the parts, an if you cant afford them...then you cant afford to drive it. that or drive it as is, an risk overheating, then HG's... While your there, change the pump, even if it aint leaking, also change the timing belt, idlers, spring, anything an everything you can get to while everything is off. it may seem expensive, but consider this: whats more expensive a planned fix, or a broken timing belt on the side of the road three months from now....?

GSGALLANT

Replace the pump. Your old pump (if it hasn't been replaced recently) will probably have a shallow groove cut into the sealing surface to put FIPG for your seal. The new pump design doesn't have that groove... it's a flat sealing surface and there is a metal and rubber gasket that comes with it.

4x4YOTA

iTrader: (2)

so even if I dont need a new pump I should do it any ways???

4x4CPOSEADOG

Above qoute is your original thread. You mentioned that your water pump is leaking. That water pump is doomed and you need a new water pump. If you buy one that is OEM, then the gasket is included in the bag. The gasket has a rubber seal ring and you do not need any sealant to use on that gasket provided you torque the bolts to FSM specs.

Since you are replacing the water pump, it is highly recommended to replace both idler pulleys, timing belt, and maybe camshaft/crankshaft seals (if you see any sign of leakage). You also need to check the rod on the tensioner to make sure that it is tight. The reason why I'm telling you this is because once you start tearing down the front of the engine, there is no turning back. All the items mentioned above are all located around the water pump. You don't want to change just the water pump, then put everything back on and after two weeks your idler pulleys are squealing like pigs, then you have to go back there again and start from square one.

What I'm trying to say is "do it right the first time" so you won't be crying for the second time .

Here is my thread that I started: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...estion-118098/

GSGALLANT

Well... it depends. The pump that's on there now, does it have 20,000 miles or 200,000 miles on it? It's either close to being due, or it's not. A water pump is not my idea of a run to failure component if you like your truck at all. If the water pump fails, you can overheat your engine pretty quickly.

It's approximately an 8 to 10 hour job to replace the water pump and timing belt if you take your time and do it right, assuming you have all the tools that you need, which includes something to hold the crank pulley while you remove then properly re-torque the bolt that holds it onto the crank.

If your pump is leaking that bad, you should replace your timing belt, because coolant degrades it. If you're replacing your timing belt, it makes even more sense to replace the water pump also, then you'll know you're good for another 90,000 miles.

4x4YOTA

iTrader: (2)

ok so its leaking below my thermostat mount so Im gonna take it apart and see if thats my problem there before I tear completely into my engine

leebee

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...l-link-131168/

check this out, it should help you immeasurably.

another option

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...fsm/index.html

lee

4x4YOTA

iTrader: (2)

ok so I finally did my water pump and timng belt and Im glad I did cuz my belt was cracked and warped and when I took the pump off there wasnt even a gasket just trace amounts of RTV so I dont know if the gasket just detereated or there never was one but I replaced the pump, gasket, and timing belt and it was on of the easiest things Ive done only took me about 7 hrs and the crank bolt was the hardest process the took the most time so today Im gonna top off my radiator and let it circulate and fill up my whole cooling system cross your fingers it doesnt leak...


and I also took pics as I did it so I will post a thread soon for those who want to know what it takes / what I did