4x4CPOSEADOG

Hey all,

I replaced the leaky water pump on my 3.0slow yesterday. When I removed the timing belt form the right (PS) cam shaft the timing mark on the camshaft is pointing at 2 o'clock position instead of 12 o'clock supposed to be match with the timing mark on the number 3 timing belt cover. The driver side cam shaft is at 12 o'clock and matched the timing mark on the cover plus the crankshaft matched the nothed on the oil pump cover at it is at 0' degree.

Now the question is, how can I put the right (PS) camshaft back to the correct timing mark (12 o'clock)? Do I have to rotate it clockwise without the timing belt installed to aligned with the timing mark on the #3 cover? Or do I have to install the timing belt to rotate it? Can I rotate the camshaft by itself without damaging the engine?

Any help is greatly appreciated. TIA.

MudHippy

I had this happen 2 days ago. First remove the belt. Then you can rotate the camshaft pulley by hand to make it line up(counter-clockwise from 2 to 12 o' clock is fine). Reintall the belt, after, turn the crank x2 and see if it lines up. Mine didn't on my first try, the cams were in the right spot but the crank wasn't. So if that happens, start over making adjustments where needed(I moved my crankshaft a notch and put the belt on, then spun it x2 and they matched).

Good luck.

snap-on

take the belt off and put a socket on the cam nut and turn, it will be difficult to turn as you compress springs, but then it will shoot forward on the other side of the lob so watch it when you turning it with the rachet... (i prefer non-wracheting breaker bar)

once its lined up put everythign back to gether and good luck with the timming (ps make shure you start the truck up just after you put the belt on and get it tensioned to make shure its timmed right)

4x4CPOSEADOG

mudhippy/snap-on,
Thank you guys. I just want to make sure that I won't break something in the engine if I turn the PS camshaft counter clockwise.

MudHippy

Yeah, it wont hurt nothin'. They tell ya not to turn any of them counter clockwise, but you can. I don't think it would matter if you went clockwise around either(3VZE is a non-interference engine).

4x4CPOSEADOG

Hey Mud,
Okay, when you turned the camshafts and cranshaft the first time, did you install the crankshaft pulley and torqued the bolt? The FSM install the no.1 timing belt cover and install the crankshaft pulley then install the PS drive belt pulley with four bolts. Did you do all that stuff prior to rotating the camshafts/crankshaft to align the timing marks?

MudHippy

I left the cover off and just used the crankshaft bolt. But yeah. Mines an 88, so the tensioner is different than what the 93 FSM shows. I did exactly as it says here.


Are you having trouble getting it to line up all three?

4x4CPOSEADOG

I have not started aligning the camshafts since it is getting dark outside. I will work on the truck in the AM to get more daylight. I'm just trying to get all the detail so when I tackle the job tomorrow I'm ready to

4x4CPOSEADOG

Okay, I finally got the timing marks on both camshafts and crankshaft, everything were lined up. I installed the timing belt ensuring the CR marking on belt matched with the dot mark on the crankshaft pulley. Pulled the timing belt to get to the driver side camshaft which perfectly matched the notch on the timing cover #3 and the timing mark on the camshaft pulley, pulled it a little bit more and got to hang it on the passenger side pulley, then installed the pulley on the camshaft, using the Camshaft SST I slightly turned the camshaft to put in the knock pin on the groove, while ensuring the timing mark matches the timing on the cover and pulley. Tighten the camshaft bolt to 80 ft lbs. Check all markings and they all lined up, oooaah!

Then installed the crankshaft pulley bolt and torqued to 181 ft lbs. then installed the timing belt cover #1, installed the power steering pulley, installed the fan clutch, installed the tensioner. Now, this is the fun part, to make sure that the timing is at TDC, I rotated the crankshaft two revolutions, oooaaahhhh the timing marks on camshafts and crankshaft are perfectly lined up, so I did another two revolutions to make sure everything is at proper timing for the second time, well the timing marks on camshafts and crankshaft is good but the belt markings are not so I did another two more revolutions for the third time and guess what I found, WTF the LCAM marking on the timing belt is off ONE tooth and the same thing goes on the RCAM marking. They are one tooth off to the left when facing the engine but the timing marks on both camshafts and crankshaft are PERFECTLY ALIGNED with the 0' on the crankshaft pulley and so the camshafts are pointing at 12 o'clock and matches the timing marks on timing cover #3. So the question now is, how can I get the timing belt to perfectly align with the camshafts and crankshaft? Do I have to tear it down again and repeat the process? A one man show is not fun when you go back and do it again. So there you go again.

MudHippy

Nope, you all good. That's what it should do. Keeps the belt always contacting different teeth as it goes through the cycle. As long as the timing marks on the pulleys line up it's cool.

4x4CPOSEADOG

Thanks Mud,
I'm going to install everything, then fill it up with water and try to fire it out to make sure everything works. So, you're saying that I do not have to worry if the belt markings are not align with the tooth on camshafts? Do you think it won't give me any rough idle or engine may run rough? Okay, I'm going to try.

Anybody else opinion?

4x4CPOSEADOG

Here are the timing marks on both camshafts after 6 full revolutions, at initial timing belt installation everything lined up perfectly with all three timing marks (crankshaft/camshafts). Is this a ONE Tooth off? The distributor is pointing at number 1 spark plug.

MudHippy

Everything looks good there. If you keep turning the crankshaft, the marks on the belt should move 1 tooth every full turn of the camshaft pulleys, or x2 turns of the crankshaft. Like I said, if the timing marks are lined up on the pulleys the marks on the belt don't serve any further purpose.

4x4CPOSEADOG

So I put everything back on. Torque all bolts according to FSM on fan clutch bracket, installed fan and installed all new drive belts (AC, PS, and Alternator). Filled the radiator with water and crank the motor. I made sure the drive belts had some slacks and not too tight.

Well, as soon as the motor starts running, I hear a loud sound squeal like a pig. Remember, every parts I installed are brand spanking new from Northridge Toyota. Here is the list. New water pump, new number 1 and number 2 pulleys, new timing belt, new drive belts as mentioned above, new thermostat.

Did I possibly got a lemon water pump from Toyota? So, now do I have to tear it back again to make sure it is the water pump bearing that is faulty or the fan clutch? Everytime is start the motor and still squeal like a mofo.

What do you guys think is the culprit? Let me know please. Thanks.

TNRabbit

Did you replace your idler pulleys? Also, I don't believe the "off one tooth every rotation" thing is correct. Once you have it on, it should STAY the same.

Judging from your pics (hard to tell so far away, can you get a closeup of each cam sprocket with the crank on 0degrees?)...I'd say you left a tooth of extra belt between the two cam sprockets..that's what USUALLY happens when you first try to line it all up. You have to cock the passenger side sprocket to the right a little bit before you put the belt on it, then when you apply presssure it lines up with the mark. Don't worry about the belt itself; it's the sprockets/crank you have to get lined up. The belt is inconsequential.

justinking060310

mine had a "metal" sounding squeal for about the first half hour of runtime and then it went away - I thought i was going to be going in for the idler's

not sure if its the same, but mine was a high pitched squeal coming from the timing belt area...

4x4CPOSEADOG

TNRabbit,
The engine runs fine and no problem, it is the loud squealing sound that is pissing me off. Like I said when I put the timing belt on the crank and cams, the timing marks are perfectly lined up. I even push the passenger side cam a little bit to get the knock pin in the groove and everything lined up.
Everything is new even the lower and upper rad hoses. I only used water to run the engine and did not put in the 50/50 mixture of coolant and water yet since I'm flushing and draining it with the distilled water. As of right now, it is squealing like a pig being slaughtered. The fan clutch is a little bit tight when being spun by hand. But I do believe the noise is coming from the freaking water pump. I don't know if it is still under warranty or not. I got to call Northridge Toy.

MudHippy

There's another bearing that could be suspect in that vacinity. The fan pulley bracket bearing is right in front of the water pump. Did you inspect it thoroughly? If you remove the belts(PS,A/C,Alt.)and spin the fan by hand, maybe you'll hear something like a dry bearing sound if it's bad. It is the only likely candidate I can think of, but it could be a few things.

4x4CPOSEADOG

Mud,

Upon reading through fan bracket threads, I highly suspect that it is the false water pump bracket that is making the squealing sound. Due to the new drive belts installed, it is possible that the bearing got a heavy load. I will remove all the belts and see if it bracket spins freely without sounding like there is a sand in the bearing. With 126,000 miles on the engine, it is more likely the fan bracket is the culprit. Ouch, that is a $700 bucks + from the stealership.

justinking060310

just drive it for a little while -