stripped headbolt
10-25-2006, 03:45 PM
#1
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stripped headbolt
So, I'm trying to get the head bolts off my 3.0 and everything is going hunky dory until the cheap ass socket (not really complaining..it was leant and all I had) gave way and stripped the bolt head. The HB's are Toyota 12 points. It's not completely stripped off, but well on the way. I am hoping someone has a bit of good advice for getting this bolt out TONIGHT (fingers crossed)without me totally being screwed. ANYONE please!! Thank you in advance!
Last edited by thook; 10-25-2006 at 04:36 PM. Reason: Title was ambiguous
10-25-2006, 04:00 PM
#2
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Might wanna try getting a better socket and go at it again SLOWLY. Some penetrating oil might loosen it up a bit to help it break free. I dont know about what tools you have laying around but in shop class, the teacher welded a socket onto a stripped headbolt once to get it out. Seems logical as a last resort because your supposed to use new headbolts anyway.
10-25-2006, 04:10 PM
#3
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If the bolt is already beyond stripped then go by craftsmans bolt offs. If that isnt a choice get a torch and heat the metal up and have a go at it. Finally last resrt is to take a slightly bigger or smaller socket and jam it on thier with a hammer. The socket will be ruined and so will the bolt though.
10-25-2006, 04:15 PM
#4
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Might wanna try getting a better socket and go at it again SLOWLY. Some penetrating oil might loosen it up a bit to help it break free. I dont know about what tools you have laying around but in shop class, the teacher welded a socket onto a stripped headbolt once to get it out. Seems logical as a last resort because your supposed to use new headbolts anyway.
Damn it! I keep wishing I had a welder. I would absolutely give that a go. BUT, I will try the torch....I've got one of them, and some smaller twelve points.
Thanks a bunch, fellas!!!
10-25-2006, 04:28 PM
#6
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Thanks Kyle, I will. First, I have to get another 12mm 12point so I can still get the other bolts out. May not happen 'til tomorrow of Fri, though, the way things are looking. In which case, I'm going for a hardened steel socket (3/8")and adapter to fit my 1/2" drive torque wrench and breaker bar.
10-25-2006, 09:55 PM
#7
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This is probably a dumb idea, but in the spirit of brainstorming...
... can you just drill (or grind, depending on location) the head off of the one head bolt that is stripped? Then, pull the head and you will have the shaft of the bolt to grab, weld, grip, twist and unscrew.
This is more of a theory than a suggestion.
... can you just drill (or grind, depending on location) the head off of the one head bolt that is stripped? Then, pull the head and you will have the shaft of the bolt to grab, weld, grip, twist and unscrew.
This is more of a theory than a suggestion.
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10-28-2006, 08:28 PM
#9
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If the bolt is already beyond stripped then go by craftsmans bolt offs. If that isnt a choice get a torch and heat the metal up and have a go at it. Finally last resrt is to take a slightly bigger or smaller socket and jam it on thier with a hammer. The socket will be ruined and so will the bolt though.
I'm going to check into the craftsman bolt offs. I will also see if the O'Reilly has any kind of tool they will rent out.
Any more ideas would be killer!
Thanks a bunch all!
10-28-2006, 08:36 PM
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welding a socket on the head and using a breaker bar or something seems like the best bet but i know you may not have access to a welder... maybe you can dremel some new flat sides on it and use a smaller 6-point or something...im not sure how big this bolt is as i can't picture it
10-28-2006, 08:51 PM
#12
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Hey, that's a great idea. I thought of dremmeling just a straight cut through the center for a flat head impact driver, but your idea is better. I'm going to give it a shot. If you look at 12mm socket facing the side that fits over the bolt, the bolt head (being a 12 point) is slightly smaller than the diameter of the circular body of the socket. And you're right... I do not have access to a welder. A cryin' shame, it is!
BTW, I was just looking up the craftsman bolt out online and it appears it will only work for hex heads and not torx (or twelve point) heads. Anyone know? I'm very willing to be mistaken on this.
BTW, I was just looking up the craftsman bolt out online and it appears it will only work for hex heads and not torx (or twelve point) heads. Anyone know? I'm very willing to be mistaken on this.
10-28-2006, 09:00 PM
#13
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I just thought of something. If I dremmel on the headbolt it's going to produce a lot of metal shavings..which will get into the head. The heads are slated to go to the machine shop to be cleaned and inspected, so I would guess the shavings won't be an issue.???
10-28-2006, 09:51 PM
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if you dont run it with any shavings in damaging areas then no, however, to be sure, why not seal some saran wrap or something all around the bolt and make sort of a way to collect all the shavings? maybe have someone stand there with a shop vac to get all the shavings or a magnet, who knows. the slot idea is a good idea, i was going to suggest that as that is a way to get stripped screws out but i didn't know if you had access to a tool to provide enough leverage using something of that shape.
10-28-2006, 10:28 PM
#15
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Great minds...
if you dont run it with any shavings in damaging areas then no, however, to be sure, why not seal some saran wrap or something all around the bolt and make sort of a way to collect all the shavings? maybe have someone stand there with a shop vac to get all the shavings or a magnet, who knows. the slot idea is a good idea, i was going to suggest that as that is a way to get stripped screws out but i didn't know if you had access to a tool to provide enough leverage using something of that shape.
Last edited by thook; 10-28-2006 at 10:30 PM.
10-29-2006, 11:52 AM
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The head bolts are sunken into the head.
There is enough room between the head and the bolt to get a 12pt socket in there. That's about it.
It's going to be tough to get a pair of vice grips on the bolt to get it out.
Same goes with a Dremel.
At this point, if the bolt offs don't work, or aren't a consideration (I don't know how they work,or what thye look like) then I think what's going to need to happen is that he's going to have to drill the bolt's head off.
Once you get it off, make sure to invest in some good Craftsman or Napa Pro series sockets.
And when you put it back together, be SURE to chase the threads in the block (cut a slot in one of your old head bolts) and lubricate the new headbolts (my headbolts came with a packet of what looked like copper grease).
There is enough room between the head and the bolt to get a 12pt socket in there. That's about it.
It's going to be tough to get a pair of vice grips on the bolt to get it out.
Same goes with a Dremel.
At this point, if the bolt offs don't work, or aren't a consideration (I don't know how they work,or what thye look like) then I think what's going to need to happen is that he's going to have to drill the bolt's head off.
Once you get it off, make sure to invest in some good Craftsman or Napa Pro series sockets.
And when you put it back together, be SURE to chase the threads in the block (cut a slot in one of your old head bolts) and lubricate the new headbolts (my headbolts came with a packet of what looked like copper grease).
10-29-2006, 07:22 PM
#19
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Thank you all for the input!
I went by the O'Reilly after work today and got their "Irwin" bolt removal set...five sockets for $23 including a case. They also had a set....same sockets...without a case yet the same price.
Anyway, the thing worked like a charm. It bit right into the bolt head and I had it out in about three seconds. Yay cheater bars!!!! I suggest if anyone ever decides to remove their heads, or do any other motor work with high torque specs, to have one of these sets on hand. I was freakin' elated! And they're even compatible with impact tools.
I'm really glad I had the patience to wait 'til another day when I had the right tools. As well as any of these emergency ideas may or may not have worked, they would have honestly been a bitch. Although, I would have tried just about anything if it were absolutely my only option.
BTW, about all of my sockets are craftsman. I just didn't have any twelve points. I do now....one shiney, new 12mm!!!! Ha! What will I use it for now, though? My new head bolts are hex's....
Last thing....what do you mean "chase" the threads? Cleaning them out with an old bolt? And why cut a slot in it? I do have 17 others than aren't stripped. And thanks for the tip on lub'ing the new ones.
I went by the O'Reilly after work today and got their "Irwin" bolt removal set...five sockets for $23 including a case. They also had a set....same sockets...without a case yet the same price.
Anyway, the thing worked like a charm. It bit right into the bolt head and I had it out in about three seconds. Yay cheater bars!!!! I suggest if anyone ever decides to remove their heads, or do any other motor work with high torque specs, to have one of these sets on hand. I was freakin' elated! And they're even compatible with impact tools.I'm really glad I had the patience to wait 'til another day when I had the right tools. As well as any of these emergency ideas may or may not have worked, they would have honestly been a bitch. Although, I would have tried just about anything if it were absolutely my only option.
BTW, about all of my sockets are craftsman. I just didn't have any twelve points. I do now....one shiney, new 12mm!!!! Ha! What will I use it for now, though? My new head bolts are hex's....
Last thing....what do you mean "chase" the threads? Cleaning them out with an old bolt? And why cut a slot in it? I do have 17 others than aren't stripped. And thanks for the tip on lub'ing the new ones.
Last edited by thook; 10-29-2006 at 07:25 PM.
