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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

stripped headbolt

Old Oct 25, 2006 | 03:45 PM
  #1  
thook's Avatar
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From: NW Ark on wooded ten acres...Ozarks at large!
stripped headbolt

So, I'm trying to get the head bolts off my 3.0 and everything is going hunky dory until the cheap ass socket (not really complaining..it was leant and all I had) gave way and stripped the bolt head. The HB's are Toyota 12 points. It's not completely stripped off, but well on the way. I am hoping someone has a bit of good advice for getting this bolt out TONIGHT (fingers crossed)without me totally being screwed. ANYONE please!! Thank you in advance!

Last edited by thook; Oct 25, 2006 at 04:36 PM. Reason: Title was ambiguous
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Old Oct 25, 2006 | 04:00 PM
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From: Bucklesberry, North Carolina
Might wanna try getting a better socket and go at it again SLOWLY. Some penetrating oil might loosen it up a bit to help it break free. I dont know about what tools you have laying around but in shop class, the teacher welded a socket onto a stripped headbolt once to get it out. Seems logical as a last resort because your supposed to use new headbolts anyway.
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Old Oct 25, 2006 | 04:10 PM
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If the bolt is already beyond stripped then go by craftsmans bolt offs. If that isnt a choice get a torch and heat the metal up and have a go at it. Finally last resrt is to take a slightly bigger or smaller socket and jam it on thier with a hammer. The socket will be ruined and so will the bolt though.
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Old Oct 25, 2006 | 04:15 PM
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From: NW Ark on wooded ten acres...Ozarks at large!
Originally Posted by Kyle95sr5
Might wanna try getting a better socket and go at it again SLOWLY. Some penetrating oil might loosen it up a bit to help it break free. I dont know about what tools you have laying around but in shop class, the teacher welded a socket onto a stripped headbolt once to get it out. Seems logical as a last resort because your supposed to use new headbolts anyway.
Haha! I just replied to YOUR thread. Too funny!

Damn it! I keep wishing I had a welder. I would absolutely give that a go. BUT, I will try the torch....I've got one of them, and some smaller twelve points.

Thanks a bunch, fellas!!!
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Old Oct 25, 2006 | 04:19 PM
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From: Bucklesberry, North Carolina
Let us know how things go
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Old Oct 25, 2006 | 04:28 PM
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From: NW Ark on wooded ten acres...Ozarks at large!
Thanks Kyle, I will. First, I have to get another 12mm 12point so I can still get the other bolts out. May not happen 'til tomorrow of Fri, though, the way things are looking. In which case, I'm going for a hardened steel socket (3/8")and adapter to fit my 1/2" drive torque wrench and breaker bar.
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Old Oct 25, 2006 | 09:55 PM
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This is probably a dumb idea, but in the spirit of brainstorming...

... can you just drill (or grind, depending on location) the head off of the one head bolt that is stripped? Then, pull the head and you will have the shaft of the bolt to grab, weld, grip, twist and unscrew.

This is more of a theory than a suggestion.
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Old Oct 26, 2006 | 06:31 AM
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the heads of the bolts are sunk down into the heads cant really get to them for that kind of operation.
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Old Oct 28, 2006 | 08:28 PM
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From: NW Ark on wooded ten acres...Ozarks at large!
Originally Posted by CJM
If the bolt is already beyond stripped then go by craftsmans bolt offs. If that isnt a choice get a torch and heat the metal up and have a go at it. Finally last resrt is to take a slightly bigger or smaller socket and jam it on thier with a hammer. The socket will be ruined and so will the bolt though.
So I got to the last resort part. The bolt is completely stripped off now. Round as a doughnut. (hmmm...I could go for one of those right now...) Anyways, I got my new tools and had a go at it. Nope! Heated it up real good, then another go. Nope! Tried hammering an 11mm over it. Nope! It will not go down on the head of the bolt. I would try a 1/2 in., but don't have one and can't get one until tomorrow. Even then, I'm not sure if it will do any good.
I'm going to check into the craftsman bolt offs. I will also see if the O'Reilly has any kind of tool they will rent out.
Any more ideas would be killer! Thanks a bunch all!
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Old Oct 28, 2006 | 08:36 PM
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welding a socket on the head and using a breaker bar or something seems like the best bet but i know you may not have access to a welder... maybe you can dremel some new flat sides on it and use a smaller 6-point or something...im not sure how big this bolt is as i can't picture it
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Old Oct 28, 2006 | 08:46 PM
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Did you buy the bolt off's? They will work..
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Old Oct 28, 2006 | 08:51 PM
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From: NW Ark on wooded ten acres...Ozarks at large!
Hey, that's a great idea. I thought of dremmeling just a straight cut through the center for a flat head impact driver, but your idea is better. I'm going to give it a shot. If you look at 12mm socket facing the side that fits over the bolt, the bolt head (being a 12 point) is slightly smaller than the diameter of the circular body of the socket. And you're right... I do not have access to a welder. A cryin' shame, it is!

BTW, I was just looking up the craftsman bolt out online and it appears it will only work for hex heads and not torx (or twelve point) heads. Anyone know? I'm very willing to be mistaken on this.
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Old Oct 28, 2006 | 09:00 PM
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From: NW Ark on wooded ten acres...Ozarks at large!
I just thought of something. If I dremmel on the headbolt it's going to produce a lot of metal shavings..which will get into the head. The heads are slated to go to the machine shop to be cleaned and inspected, so I would guess the shavings won't be an issue.???
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Old Oct 28, 2006 | 09:51 PM
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if you dont run it with any shavings in damaging areas then no, however, to be sure, why not seal some saran wrap or something all around the bolt and make sort of a way to collect all the shavings? maybe have someone stand there with a shop vac to get all the shavings or a magnet, who knows. the slot idea is a good idea, i was going to suggest that as that is a way to get stripped screws out but i didn't know if you had access to a tool to provide enough leverage using something of that shape.
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Old Oct 28, 2006 | 10:28 PM
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From: NW Ark on wooded ten acres...Ozarks at large!
Great minds...

Originally Posted by drguitarum2005
if you dont run it with any shavings in damaging areas then no, however, to be sure, why not seal some saran wrap or something all around the bolt and make sort of a way to collect all the shavings? maybe have someone stand there with a shop vac to get all the shavings or a magnet, who knows. the slot idea is a good idea, i was going to suggest that as that is a way to get stripped screws out but i didn't know if you had access to a tool to provide enough leverage using something of that shape.
Yeah, it is a pretty good idea, huh? It's funny....I thought of all those things, too. And I'm sure it would all work just great. I think I'm going to just save myself a lot of effort and time (and cutting wheels!) and get the craftsman set, though. Sears has a revolving merchandise plan...so I'm told...hehehe!! (<<thook slyly plotting cost efficient repair schemes<<)

Last edited by thook; Oct 28, 2006 at 10:30 PM.
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Old Oct 29, 2006 | 07:58 AM
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Maybe just drill the head off the bolt?
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Old Oct 29, 2006 | 08:04 AM
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try vice grips they have worked well in the past for me with rounded off bolts.
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Old Oct 29, 2006 | 11:52 AM
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The head bolts are sunken into the head.
There is enough room between the head and the bolt to get a 12pt socket in there. That's about it.
It's going to be tough to get a pair of vice grips on the bolt to get it out.
Same goes with a Dremel.

At this point, if the bolt offs don't work, or aren't a consideration (I don't know how they work,or what thye look like) then I think what's going to need to happen is that he's going to have to drill the bolt's head off.

Once you get it off, make sure to invest in some good Craftsman or Napa Pro series sockets.

And when you put it back together, be SURE to chase the threads in the block (cut a slot in one of your old head bolts) and lubricate the new headbolts (my headbolts came with a packet of what looked like copper grease).
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Old Oct 29, 2006 | 07:22 PM
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From: NW Ark on wooded ten acres...Ozarks at large!
Thank you all for the input!

I went by the O'Reilly after work today and got their "Irwin" bolt removal set...five sockets for $23 including a case. They also had a set....same sockets...without a case yet the same price. Anyway, the thing worked like a charm. It bit right into the bolt head and I had it out in about three seconds. Yay cheater bars!!!! I suggest if anyone ever decides to remove their heads, or do any other motor work with high torque specs, to have one of these sets on hand. I was freakin' elated! And they're even compatible with impact tools.
I'm really glad I had the patience to wait 'til another day when I had the right tools. As well as any of these emergency ideas may or may not have worked, they would have honestly been a bitch. Although, I would have tried just about anything if it were absolutely my only option.
BTW, about all of my sockets are craftsman. I just didn't have any twelve points. I do now....one shiney, new 12mm!!!! Ha! What will I use it for now, though? My new head bolts are hex's....

Last thing....what do you mean "chase" the threads? Cleaning them out with an old bolt? And why cut a slot in it? I do have 17 others than aren't stripped. And thanks for the tip on lub'ing the new ones.

Last edited by thook; Oct 29, 2006 at 07:25 PM.
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Old Oct 29, 2006 | 07:50 PM
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Never seize is what I would use, will make sure it dont ever freeze up and it works!

Glad to hear the bolt offs worked! You can thank me later..
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