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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

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Old 03-21-2009, 07:57 AM   #1
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removing injector rails on 3.0

Alright, well i thought I could get through my 3.0 head job with just my engineuity (little joke there), the FSM and all of your guys old post and threads but alas I've hit a snag. When removing the right (pass. side) fuel injector fuel rail, at what location do I dis attach what must be the main fuel line? It is the large union connector on the firewall end of the passenger rail leading down to gas tank. Also, even with many a search performed I still am no closer to removing both the cam pulley bolts and hence the pulleys themselves. Any suggestions there would be great. I will try a strap wrench today. Just to clarify a post i read saying to put a 10mm socket on the fastner behind the pulley (you know, one of the bolts for the rear timing belt cover) to imobilize the pulley while you loosened the pulley bolt seems to bring undisired consequences i.e. the head of the bolt getting all messed up. Even if you were to be extremely careful, following that process through to its end result would mean disaster. PICS of fuel rail with connector in question will follow! THANKS

P.S. where is the oil return hole that you all say to plug with something so stuff doesn't fall down in there?
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removing injector rails on 3.0-fuel11.jpg   removing injector rails on 3.0-fuel22.jpg   removing injector rails on 3.0-fuel44.jpg  
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Old 03-21-2009, 08:24 AM   #2
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Heres a pic may help.
Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 03-21-2009, 08:24 AM   #3
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Scuba,

I've done this so many times and I don't ever remember there being a trick to this. If I recall I just used a big wrench with a rag to hold the fuel rail in place. Unfortunately with the air plenum in the way I can't get a better visual to remember exactly.
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Old 03-21-2009, 09:36 AM   #4
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On the fuel rail, I left the part you're pointing to hooked up. I removed the pipe that connects the 2 rails in the front and removed the bolt holding the rear pipe to the rioght side rail and that gave me enough to remove the 2 rails.

As for the cam pulleys, I can't help you there because I removed the cams with the timing cover after having no luck trying to remove the cam gears. Worked out pretty good for me, but if you're planning on replacing the front cam seals you will have to remove the cam gears. Luckily the machine shop did that for me.
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Old 03-21-2009, 10:33 AM   #5
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Woah

WOAH dude, Wrong..




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Old 03-21-2009, 11:59 AM   #6
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Thanks for the info. everybody, I now know where to take it apart at. Scuba sorry about the name thing, not intentional by any means (by the way do you know of the wreck of the Diamond Knot? Great diving if you are interested!)
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Old 03-21-2009, 02:19 PM   #7
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Ish happens lol...I was just like..uhh whos this guy...

Umm wreck of diamond knot...?
Never heard of it...
Feel free to enlighten me...


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Old 03-21-2009, 04:47 PM   #8
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There are two good ways to remove the camshaft pulleys.

The first is to use this tool from Kragen:

http://shop.oreillyauto.com/ProductD...egoryCode=3491

The "T" studs hook into the spokes on the cam pulley. The cutout in between them allows access for a socket to get to the pulley bolt. This is the best way to do it, you can even get it done with one person if you can jam the end of the cam wrench against something.

The other way is to use a large open end wrench (I think it is 1", but don't quote me on that). Take the valve cover off. The cam has a hex feature cast into it. Find that feature and have a buddy hold the cam with the open end wrench. Then you loosen the pulley bolt. You have to be very careful with this method. If the cam is allowed to rotate too far with the open end wrench on it, it will jam the wrench against the head casting and you will damage the head. But, if you are careful, this works fine also.

For re-installation, buy the cam wrench, it is cheap.

One other piece of advice. Replace the knock sensor pigtail when you do this job. The knock sensor is under the intake manifold and is connected to the wire harness with a jumper. That jumper gets very brittle with time and heat under that intake. When you remove the intake you will most likely crack that wire without knowing it. Buy a new one, they are cheap and the dealers all stock them. I replaced the knock sensor while I was in there, the torque spec for the sensor is 53 in-lbs. That number is very hard to find, I got it from a master tech at the dealer in my town.


Good luck,

Mike
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Old 03-21-2009, 09:20 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OutlawMike View Post
The other way is to use a large open end wrench (I think it is 1", but don't quote me on that). Take the valve cover off. The cam has a hex feature cast into it. ... If the cam is allowed to rotate too far with the open end wrench on it, it will jam the wrench against the head casting and you will damage the head.
27mm; a 1 1/8" will work. Don't try to "hold" the wrench. Just get a 2x4 about 24" long. Saw a short slot in one end to rest the head of the wrench, and set the other end of the 2x4 into the notch of the fender where the hood fits. (It's still nice to have a friend to keep the wrench from jumping out of the 2x4, but I cut a slot that fit the end of the wrench tightly enough that I had no trouble solo.)

The bolts go back on with 80 ftlbs, so you will probably need to "tool" again to tighten them.

Don't try to use an adjustable wrench; it won't fit. And OutlawMike is right; you don't want that wrench swinging into your soft aluminum head against 80ftlbs of torque.
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Old 03-21-2009, 10:28 PM   #10
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Another option for holding the cam pulley is a strap wrench I improvised out of the old timing belt when I replaced the head gaskets on my veezy. It turned out to work very well, and it was free. I attached a crude drawing to give you some idea.

I used a four foot 2x4 and cut out a semi-circle from one end of it so it matched the curve of the cam pulley (I flattened the corners some since they were too sharp - you could make your circle begin about a half inch in from each side to get the same effect.) I measured a piece of belt to wrap a bit less than 2 times around the pulley, PLUS an additional 10 inches or so to attach along the narrow edge of the 2x4.

I attached one end only of the belt to the 2x4 with two 3" lag bolts with large washers into pre-drilled holes (had to drill the belt, too). The nearest belt attachment should be 3 to 4 inches back from the curved end of the 2x4 because it will angle up from the wood, and it's easy to tear the belt against the washer - in fact mine eventually did just that a few years later. I attached the belt with teeth side down so the teeth would grip the cam timing pulley. That means the teeth will face inward toward the pulley. It held the pulley ROCK SOLID and I was able to just let the 2x4 brace itself against the fender while I used my breaker bar with pipe extension on the nut. It was TIGHT, but succumbed to superior force, and the strap wrench held it securely but very gently. I think it worked better than Toyota's SST would have.

Option: Attaching the belt so the teeth face outward, instead of inward, would still hold the cam pulleys fine, and would provide a better grip on other round objects like the crank pulley or driveshaft.

Using a new timing belt, though a little pricey, would provide a stronger and more grippy tool. Maybe you could scrounge a scrap belt in good shape from a shop or a buddy.

The tool turned out to be very handy for other jobs, too. It held the crank pulley really well. Last year when I had to torque my center bearing onto my propeller shaft with 134 ft lbs of force, the strap wrench held the shaft firm.

EDIT Sept 2010 - Suggestion for improvement: I just made this tool again this week to hold my harmonic balancer when changing the timing belt, and to provide some protection from cutting the belt against the lag bolt washer, I used an extra 8-10 inches of belt and folded it in half, toothed side to toothed side, and drilled the lag bolts through the two thicknesses of belt. The side of the belt leading to the pulley is on the bottom next to the wood, and the folded over side is on top providing some cushioning and protection from the lag bolt washers. It worked super well. This technique results in the smooth side of the belt against the pulley, and it held the crankshaft pulley better than when I had the toothed side facing in. This arrangement would still hold the cam pulleys just fine, so this is the way I recommend making the tool. It held the crank pulley against 181 ft lbs of torque with ease - I estimate the tool could withstand up to 300 ft lbs.
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Old 03-21-2009, 10:41 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scuba#1 View Post
Scuba sorry about the name thing, not intentional by any means
How about "Scuba Too" Sort of a mish between Scuba 2 and Scooby Do

(Don't know if the admins can or would change a user name, or if you could create a new one for yourself - admins please don't crush me for suggesting, I'm an ignorant noob myself )
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Old 03-22-2009, 08:47 AM   #12
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First let me say thanks for all your suggestions! I now have the injector rails off and the crank pulley and both cam pulleys. Boy were they on tight I will have to buy a new # 10 strength cam pulley bolt for the left side as the head of the original was actually bent to the side in the removal. (sorta like a tectonic plate shifting, lol.) No harm to the cam shaft from all outward appearance though, which is awesome. I ended up cutting a piece of old timing belt to exactly the circumference of the cam pulley plus a smaller piece to wrap around the pulley as well, for more protection at the point of tool contact. Then attached a chain wrench to that and a cheater bar onto the chain wrench handle and had a buddy work that while I used a 1/2 " drive breaker bar with a cheater bar on that as well. I then had my grandfather "tap" (a relative term) on the cheater bar that I was pulling on to simulate an impact wrench while I held constant pressure on it and lo and behold worked like a charm on the right side but the left side was not so accommodating though. Like I said the bolt is kinda funny now and the breaker bar broke in the process. Oh well I got them off and that's what matters! Really quick too while I'm here writing this, "SCUBA" google diamond knot and you will learn of a ship wreck in the straights of Juan De Fuca just outside of Port Angeles, WA. Challenging dive but worth every minute of it!! Thanks again, you all rock!
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Old 03-22-2009, 08:47 AM
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30, 3o, 3vze, 4runner, 93, cam, camshaft, fuel, gear, injector, intake, plenum, rail, removal, removing, replace, rh, seals

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