My search turned up empty. I tried to install my Downey truss tonight and it was a little snug going in to the spot it belongs but I just had to tap it in. I drilled the lower hole with no problems but when I drilled the upper hole the bit hit the actual coltrol arm. Did anyone have this problem? I did notice the control arm on the pass side is closer the the inside of the frame than the drivers. I was thinking of just cutting the taps off and welding it into place. What subgestions do you have?

 

only suggestion I have is to straighten the frame.
If it didn't go in smoothly, the LCA mounts are probably bent.
and straightening the frame will get your suspension geometry back to where it should be.

 

Id say just weld it in if you have a welder...

But abe has something going there...

 

Yes abe does. I never thought about it until he said it but the font pass side was wrecked befor I got it. It frame still kinda looks pushed back. I had it aligned and never had a problem with tires wearing so I never worried about it. The shop said it aligned right up. I may just weld it in and have to deal with cutting it out if I need to service the front diff. Thanks for the help

 

well, measure the distance between your front LCA bolts and measure the rear. if the rear is shorter, put a small hydraulic jack in there and spread the mounts until the bolt distance is the same front and rear, then weld the brace in.
then go get an alignment, 'cause you'll need one.

 

I had a similar issue with the Downey Truss. Its a good 1/4" to long for my rig, although without removing the Diff drop it wouldn't go in anyway, which I intend on doing soon. Not sure if I wanna risk spreading the gap with a jack, I think I'll just have Sonoran Steel make me a truss to fit my measurement.

 

so was the truss to long or was your frame tweaked?

 

considering the truss is made to a stock/standard measurement....
I'd say tweaked.

 

He said it was too long Jay.

 

x2.....

 

Quite possibly tweaked, but my rig has only done mild wheeling and before that was a Soccer Mum rig. So it must be way easy for that gap to get tweaked. As its only 1/4" and I do have the Firestone lifetime alignment, I may give the Bottle Jack method a shot, last night it didn't sound like such a good idea, but I see some quite experienced posters chiming in & agreeing with that suggestion, so I'd be willing to give it a shot based on their knowledge. In fact, I may go remove the Diff drop and do that today.

 

My truss bar went in with just a little hitting with the hammer. The gap between the arms was about 17in so it wasnt that bad. My problem came it when I went to drill the holes for the bolts the top bolt hole was lined up with the a-arm itself. so I there is no room to get the bolts in. I was wanting to put it in now because i'm putting BJspacers in tommorow. I figured Id do everything up front then get a alignment.