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Old 09-08-2006, 06:34 AM
  #21  
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not a single complaint about my NWOR headers ive had for 5+ years now.

at the time customer service was ok.

my downey I'm still on the fence about
Old 09-08-2006, 09:12 AM
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can I trade you my left kidney for the NWOR heaaders? lol

Being broke sucks!
Old 09-12-2006, 03:04 PM
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well, I don't detect any extra or lost power, not that I had any before anyway. Stock, I had 28" tires and 4.30 gears. Now I have (temporary, thank God) 4.10s and 35s so I'm dealing with gutlessness no matter what. I do like knowing #6 isn't getting all that extra hot air in its face now.

For anyon who is less cheap than me, I'd recommend using 1 7/8" or 2" from the manifold to the Y, then 2.5" from there to the Cat and muffler. Then 2.5 or 3" for the tailpipe.

Thanks for reading.

Last edited by AlaskaToy; 09-12-2006 at 03:05 PM.
Old 09-12-2006, 08:32 PM
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what are your thoughts on using 2 right hand exhaust manifolds and then routing the exhaust together on down ot just above the O2 sensor? im a little leary of one bank having less back pressure than the other by using 2 different sized down pipes...
Old 09-16-2006, 08:18 PM
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The scoop: the heat transfer to the pass side floorpan is out of hand. I am worried I'd boil fuel or worse at slow speed wheeling. I whipped out a heat shield this morning, but I don't think it is enough. I really think I should have run the exhaust wrap righ up to the flange.

Any way, here are some pix of the setup mounted....







Old 09-16-2006, 08:53 PM
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i gotta say that exhaust looks awsome man!! I dont know if i ever said so, but dizzam i like what ya did!
Old 09-20-2006, 04:10 PM
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Well thank you.

How long does the computer take to "relearn" the new configuration? I ask because maybe I can feel a difference now. I really can't be sure if the power is up or not; I think it *might* be though. As I said before it is tough to tell with 4.10s and 35s. I have driven it a few times this week adn last and I wonder if the computer is starting to do it's thing now. My idle is up some - about 1100-1200 rpm. Wheres the adjustment for that?

I plan on getting some adhesive backed aluminum heat shield stuff from summit soon to help with the heat on the floor/firewall.
Old 09-20-2006, 05:08 PM
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well for WOT i think that the ecu only looks at air flow and air temp. From there it refrences a table that states what should be a nice rich amount of fuel, so for WOT i believe it never changes.

Where mods will gain you power on WOT is the capability of getting more air into and out of the engine. More air in the more fuel the puter puts in.

But when you are in normal operation (closed loop? i think its called) The computer looks at air flow in, air temp, throttle setting and refrences a table for the amount of fuel to add. Then it starts looking at what the O2 sensor is saying and adjusts to get the AF ratio closer to stoich. Itll only does this however when the variables are kept constant. If something changes to make it jump to another square on the grid it starts from the grid value again. This table is static and does not change...

So a mod you add will probably take you away from stoich in closed loop thus giving you a bit more power. If you keep the throttle constant and the ecu stays in that particular grid square it starts going towards stoich.

That is my rudimentary understanding of OBDI operation, most of which was derived from Weasy2k, Toysrme257th, <96 Runner> in the smt 6 thread, and a few other professional mech. on here on this site.

Anyone reading this if im off base please chime in or add to it.

In light of all this I would look towards a change in climate, or fuel. Mods will make an engine more (or less) suseptible to changes in performance relative to the atmosphere. My FIPK for instance made no difference when the air temps were below 85*F, but when the temps are above that temp it made a HUGE difference! Have the temps changes or the humidity?
Old 09-20-2006, 05:34 PM
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yes, it has been much cooler here lately.
Old 09-20-2006, 05:42 PM
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THats looks excellent, Im thinking of puting a few more flanges in line so that section can be removed without disconnecting it from the manifolds.

The idle screw it the big slotted one on the side of TB
Old 09-20-2006, 05:45 PM
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Originally Posted by ^VooDoo^
Im thinking of puting a few more flanges in line so that section can be removed without disconnecting it from the manifolds.
Damn good idea.

Originally Posted by ^VooDoo^
The idle screw it the big slotted one on the side of TB
Thanks!
Old 09-20-2006, 06:00 PM
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Originally Posted by ^VooDoo^
THats looks excellent, Im thinking of puting a few more flanges in line so that section can be removed without disconnecting it from the manifolds.

The idle screw it the big slotted one on the side of TB
i havent forgotten about your pm, im just bouncing the ideas off of a few other people who know more than I about the subject of turboing!
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