StarWarsFan

Hi there!

Nice huh? I've searched a long time for a replacement for the vacuum hoses and found these ones on a dealer for compressed air equipment. These are hoses for compressed air but they look very nice and so I used them as vacuum hoses. The end caps normally squeezed with a press and so the hoses can't be removed without destroying them. Normally the caps a blank anodized metal but I painted them black and put them only for optical reasons over the hoses without squeezing. Here is another detail shot:



The hoses are so called "Silber-Schl?uche" here in Germany or Switzerland. I would translate the name to "silver hoses". They are available with diameters of 3.5mm up to 25.0mm.

Need more pics? Here's another one:



But back to my main problem. I solved the possible vacuum loss by this way:

There should be no loss of vacuum anymore and the valve cover is connected too. But there is no change on the running problem with the engine.

But as I know now that this is not a problem with the flashing CEL I should start a new thread.

StarWarsFan

Hi onion_75

Any hints or facts how doing this and how it should be? Thx a lot!

TNRabbit

Jump your pins & check with a timing light. If you don't jump the pins it will read WAY high.

StarWarsFan

Hello TNRabbit

OK, timing light is right and a friend has such a device. But can you be a little more specific what you mean with "jump your pins"?

TNRabbit

Sorry, jump the terminals like you did to check for engine codes.

StarWarsFan

Ah! Thx a lot. So it is not a problem to start the engine with the short in the diagnostic connector?

onion_75

hello starwarsfan mine done the same way when i changed my motor and i had it out of time by two or three teeth now after i re timed it.it runs great

TNRabbit

I don't think it matters, but you can short the connection after it's started to be certain. This willl bypass the ECU auto-advance. If you don't do this, your timing will read @ 25-30 degrees advanced.