StarWarsFan

Hi!

After doing a engine swap from the stock 4cyl to the 3L V6 3VZ-E on my PickUp I've got some problems to get the 3VZ-E running. The 3VZ-E was running very silent and smooth before the engine swap. It came out of a 1990 4Runner and I placed it into my 1990 Hilux. The swap took all in all nearly four years because of my very limited spare time. During the work I replaced the timing belt and cleaned the water pump and all the unmounted parts. Another modification took place on the oil pan to prevent a hit of the oil pan with the SFA and the mount of NWOR 3L-V6 headers. This is all done now and I put all the components together. This is beside the technical parts the wiring harness in the engine bay and the wiring harness behind the dashboard together with the whole dashboard out of the 4Runner. There are some connectors not used now because of the SFA in my truck. These unused connectors are located on the right front fender near the fuse box. I think or hope that this is not a problem. Actually the whole wiring going to the back of the truck is not mounted except the wiring to the fuel pump and the filling-level meter.

But my main problem is, that the engine is not right running. Let me explain what happens. If I start the engine it is running only if I push the throttle a little bit. With releasing throttle the engine stops. Another strange thing is that it is not important how much I push the throttle. The engine runs totally out of round and is not touring up or down as I push or release throttle. The ignition itself seems to work because all six tubes of the headers are hot. After this I check the TPS but it seems to work properly. I did this check directly on the connectors to the ECU and so I think it is not a wiring problem with the TPS.

After this I tried to take a look at the diagnostic codes. So I placed a bridge between TE1 and E1 on the diagnostic connector and turn ignition key on. The check engine lamp now always flashes. At first I thougt that it is a large error code but as I count till 100 I stoped counting the flashes. There seems to be another problem but what could it be? Is it a problem inside the ECU? Or a wiring problem on another location?

PS: Sorry for my english! I hope you understand what I tried to explain. Please let me know if you need detailed information.

TNRabbit

I'm not sure what you mean by this: "Another strange thing is that it is not important how much I push the throttle. The engine runs totally out of round and is not touring up or down as I push or release throttle."
Out of round? Not "touring" up or down?? Can we assume you swapped the ECU that was with the donor vehicle?

This initially sounds like a VAFM problem....

Do you have any details pics?

StarWarsFan

Hello!

I mean, the engine is only running, if I push throttle a little bit. But it makes no difference on the RPM if I push throttle a little bit or full! The engine runs irregular, unbalanced, uneven and if I release throttle then it stops. And I use of course the ECU from the donor vehicle.

What is this?

I will take some pics now and bring them up in the next minutes...

Thx a lot!

StarWarsFan

Hi again

OK, I took some pictures. Here they are:



Nice vacuum hoses, hm?







As you can see I've removed the plastic housing from the wiring harness. This is not finished yet because I did not found adhesive tape which looks like I want. So the appearance of the whole wiring around the engine is a big part on my ToDo-List.



The ECU is not screwed to the body at the moment and the red wire is just a connection to the cabin. On top of the picture you can see a relay. If I remember right, it is the one for the gas pump. Right?




A detailed ECU picture.



As you can see the dashboard is not finished yet. I have to remove it again for doing the next steps on the body. So I need a new roof and a new A- and B-Post on passenger side.



The green color is the old color. The whole truck will be the same blue as the engine room. Someday...




Isn't it a nice engine?


There are a lot of small things to do even around the engine. But actually I want to see if the engine is working. It took me years for doing this and I need a sign of success...

TNRabbit

That's a REALLY clean engine; looks good! I'm a little concerned about the flexible pipe you used for your intake--Check it thoroughly for leaks. It looks like it might be a little thin & causing the intake to "breathe".

StarWarsFan

Thx a lot!

The pipe is armed with a steel wire and has a diameter of round about 75 to 80mm. The intake connection has a diameter of 75mm and so the pipe is fixed with the tension jacks (I hope this is the right word for these wire clamps!?). I've got the problem that because of the body lift the stock connection pipe won't fit.

Any ideas for the flashing check engine lamp problem?

ewong

how well is that "clip lead" ground you have.

Is the body grounded to the engine block?

StarWarsFan

Hi!

Two minutes ago I was at my garage and replaced the clip with a screwed ear. The grounding of the body to the engine is well too. I have done the check with a ohm meter from the tranny to the ECU-Cover and it was alright. The problem is still there...

Other ideas?

TNRabbit

I don't think your ECU is reading something correctly. Sorry I can't be more specific. Have you checked for continuity between the VAFM

(This part):


and the ECU?

StarWarsFan

Hi TNRabbit

Yes, the VAFM seems to work properly. If I disconnect the plug on the VAFM I receice two error codes:

• 24 - Which means:
  INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR SIGNAL--OPEN OR SHORT IN INTAKE AIR TEMP. SIGNAL
  --INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE CIRCUIT
  --INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR
  --ECU
• 31 - Which means:
  MANIFOLD AND/OR AIRFLOW METER SENSOR SIGNAL CIRCUIT
  --AIRFLOW METER/CIRCUIT
  --MANIFOLD PRESSURE SENSOR/CIRCUIT
  --ECU

After reconnecting VAFM, unplug EFI fuse for 15 seconds, insert EFI fuse and turning ignition on, the check engine lamp is flashing continously like before.

Hm, this was unfortunately not the solution for the problem. Any other ideas?

PS: What is the full meaning of "VAFM"?

thook

In this picture there is something missing. There is a post that mounts the dashpot on the left hand side of the throttle body. It stops the throttle lever. Put it back in...instead of the bolt. That will give you a very erratic throttle behavior without it.

Plus, you need a tube from the breather on the valve cover to hook into the intake hose.

And, I'm not really sure if it's an issue because I've not heard otherwise even after talking to a Toyota technician, but your throttle position sensor may need to be pointing towards the plenum....as opposed to the way you have it...to read properly. If it's not an issue and it reads correctly as it is, then great. But, atleast you can eliminate this as a possible factor in your problems.

ovrrdrive

The CEL (check engine light) is supposed to flash continuously when there are no stored codes when you have the diagnostic terminals shorted out. When you remove the short it stops flashing right?

I think thook is on to something with the missing hose on the valve cover. I think you have a major engine vacuum leak that's killing it. I don't have a 3vze, but if I pull the PCV hose on my 22re it will kill the engine with a very violent shaking like you describe. Do you have access to a junkyard to get a stock intake pipe?

Btw, your English is plenty good enough to get help around here. Mush better than my Sweedish.

You may also want to start a similar thread over on 4x4 Wire. Those guys are brainiacs too. http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/postli...t=&Board=UBB11

StarWarsFan

Hello

Hm, actually I don't understand what you miss on this picture. If I compare it with the pictures which I took before the rebuild, this is exactly the same!? The dashpot is mounted on the place as it was before and the throttle lever is pushing the dashpot. If the dashpot is full moved then the throttle lever reaches the bolt on the right side of the dashpot.

OK, that may be. But how is it working without it? I've found pictures (here?) where they mount a small cone filter on the breather. So I thought, that it is not really necessary to connect the breather with the intake!? Anyway, I will fix this. Thx for the hint.

I've tested the TPS with a ohm meter and it works fine. I did not remove it during the rebuild and so it is on the position as it was since I bought the donor vehicle.


These are really good news! Yes, it stops flashing if I remove the short.

I have a stock intake pipe but it does not fix between the air flow meter and the intake because of my body lift. But the hint with the loss of vacuum is a very good hint! I've not checked this completely because I thought that there is a electric problem. But as you said: continous flashing means that there are no stored errors. And so it was completely right to see the errors if I remove the wire to the air flow meter as described in my last posting.

Thx a lot.

Thx for your help. Actually I don't know this page but I will take a look there.

I will try all these hints tomorrow. Now it is 10:55 PM here and this is a little bit too late for a soundcheck in my garage.

dcg9381

A loss of vacuum in that tube will result in the AFM not opening as much as it should.. EFI won't be right.. I'd start there also

JEBSR5

Someone will correct me if I'm wrong, but with the brake booster open like that with no master cylinder on it might create a huge vacuum leak.

Others have pointed out the drivers side valve cover hose is missing. I know for sure if I take mine off while it's running the idle slows down. This could contribute to idle problems, but not much.

I think the booster open like that might be a big problem.

The blinking light is normal with no codes as someone said.

I think the missing bolt at dashpot is because it doesn't have cruise control possibly.

dcg9381

I don't think it'll vac leak.. it's sealed internally even without the MC.

TNRabbit

VAFM stands for Volume Air Flow Meter.

thook

I realized that may be the case today after comparing the top end of two different year models of a 3.0. Pffft...guess I wasnt' much help with that..lol. All I know is when I didn't have the post installed correctly in relation to the throttle linkage on mine (with C/C) I got a very erratic idle and it revved way up with no input from the gas pedal.

StarWarsFan, I suppose then all you need is the throttle stop screw..the little bolt you mentioned. Sorry, I didn't know there were 3.0 throttle bodies designed like yours....so simply. In fact, your whole motor is simple...much simpler than mine. Must be nice..

And that's good news for me also that your TPS works that way. I've been wondering that for over a year now. It appears that way...like yours... in a diagram in the Haynes manual for Toyota 3.0's, but in the FSM it's the opposite. And I've asked around about it, but no one seemed to really know what to tell me. In that position, it would make it soooo much easier to test the TPS while on the TB. I do believe I will be switching mine around very soon.

BTW, your motor is looking rather sharp. Paint those Toyota letters on the plenum maybe red or gold. It'd be right swanky...

TNRabbit

Those are damn fine looking braided vacuum hoses, too! Where did you aqcuire them?

onion_75

check your timing