Can't get broken head bolt out
#1
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Can't get broken head bolt out
Broke head bolt while trying to remove head. Removed other nine head bolts, intake/ex manifolds, hidden timing chain cover bolt, timing chain cover, all delivery pipes connected to back of head. Can wiggle head but it wont pull off broken stud sticking out. Seems that bolt has bonded hard to head, maybe scaling has been building up and bonded to aluminum? Soaked for 10 days with PB Blaster. Pulled up on the head with engine hoist to point of almost lifting truck. Welded nut to stud and it snapped. Removed vale spring to get pipe wrench on with no luck. Any suggestions for a stud puller or female easy out? will load pic soon.
-Thanks
-Thanks
#2
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Read FSM and see what you missed. (P.S pump bracket?)
http://www.ncttora.com/FSM/1990-1995...e/cylinder.pdf
http://www.ncttora.com/FSM/1990-1995...e/cylinder.pdf
Last edited by 93toyrunner2; 06-01-2012 at 07:54 AM.
#3
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im sorry to hear that. i know my head bolts were so grimed up that it took every effort i had to remove them. seriously the shanks of the bolts were fouled up so bad it was difficult to turn them, even after the threads were completely dissengaged from the block. like sore-the-next-day-difficult.
i understand your problem, but solutions are difficult. i can only think of trying to weld on a nut again. find one thad has the same or slightly larger I.D. as the shank, let it slide down about half of the nut's hight and fill er up with melted wire. good luck
i understand your problem, but solutions are difficult. i can only think of trying to weld on a nut again. find one thad has the same or slightly larger I.D. as the shank, let it slide down about half of the nut's hight and fill er up with melted wire. good luck
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#9
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Bolt #4 on exhaust side. Between cyl 3,4 exhaust ports. Lifting from all combinations of front and rear head hooks while wiggling.Tried heating with map gas, might bring oxy act rig up to house. Stupidly I decided to to job at my house rathern than at my shop, been running tools as much as i've worked on truck.Just tired of working at work after work. Haven't had a chance to bring 220 mig up to house to weld another nut. 110 mig didn't have enough punch. If that doesn't do it I will drill. Any ideas for making a bit centering jig?
Last edited by flatbed; 06-03-2012 at 09:33 AM.
#10
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Yep, that's the typical one that has trouble. Mine snapped off too. I had to go get a bolt extractor set from sears. Cost about 30 bucks. You hammer it onto the top of the bolt and as you turn the wrench it bites into it and turns it out. That's the only way mine came off.
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Tried extractor, just shearhed stud like a lathe. Found a cool veido for a different welding technique.[YOUTUBE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4BFUfGKU_ts
#12
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I rebuilt the roommates 22re and it was this same bolt on hers.
Luckily I got it out without breaking and all was good.
Your head will likely be difficult to remove because there is carbon in the passage the bolt passes thru. I had to use a bottle brush and lots of solvent just to get the bolts to freely spin on hers.
Have you tried tightening the bolt? I know it sounds wrong but like rocking a car back and forth in snow to free it this also works with stuck bolts.
Last resort I think is to get the head clear of the block and Sawsall the bolt under the head.
Luckily I got it out without breaking and all was good.
Your head will likely be difficult to remove because there is carbon in the passage the bolt passes thru. I had to use a bottle brush and lots of solvent just to get the bolts to freely spin on hers.
Have you tried tightening the bolt? I know it sounds wrong but like rocking a car back and forth in snow to free it this also works with stuck bolts.
Last resort I think is to get the head clear of the block and Sawsall the bolt under the head.
#13
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youll get 'er. if i remember right i used something to pry underneath the bolt head while i turned it. once i was sure it was no longer threaded into the block anyway
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Use a "Dremel" tool with a small burr to make a divot in the top of the fastener you are trying to drill. Start drilling, then check to see if it is centered. If not, use the Dremel to "move" the centering hole.
I get the sense you are trying to remove the head of the bolt so that you can remove the engine head, and then get at the remainder of the bolt (with a stud remover?) So you'll use a drill bit that's almost exactly the nominal size of the head bolt (which may mean you'll need to buy a metric bit). Since you don't want to drill into the engine head at all, you can drill until it is "almost" there and then break off the bolt head with a socket (or a vise-grips).
I get the sense you are trying to remove the head of the bolt so that you can remove the engine head, and then get at the remainder of the bolt (with a stud remover?) So you'll use a drill bit that's almost exactly the nominal size of the head bolt (which may mean you'll need to buy a metric bit). Since you don't want to drill into the engine head at all, you can drill until it is "almost" there and then break off the bolt head with a socket (or a vise-grips).
#15
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The head bolt on my truck was stuck on the exhaust side also, after fighting it for a week we heated the block with a torch on the raised casting for the bolt in the block, and it came out. I had tried a 3/4 in snap on impact and a lot of penetrating oil but a little heat done the trick. I was lucky in that my bolt didn't break .We didn't heat the block until it changed colors to keep from causing problems.
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