b/j and torsion bars
#1
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b/j and torsion bars
hey i was wondering if you can put aftermarket torison bars and bj spacers in and not run into any problems and about how much lift could you acheive with both in place?
#2
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Have you searched? Do you understand what BJ spacers do in functionality? People have run BJ spacers and either kept the torsion bars the same or relaxed them a bit. Others have upgraded the torsion bars as well. Matter of opinion and lift upgrade path.
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yea i have got tired of reading lol and ya i understand but im wondering if i was to put the 1.5 bj in and put aftermarket torsion bars in say ome and cranked them would i run into cv trouble? and what would be the highest i could achieve and i also have auto locking hubs if that matters
#4
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Yes you can do that:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...cer.shtml#FAQ3
How much lift you can get will likely depend on your tolerance for a rough ride (larger torsion bars = stiffer torsion bars) and cranking up the torsion bars = rougher ride and less suspension down travel (which means a rougher ride). Probably can do 2" lift w/o too much trouble, in fact you'll see some vendors selling the 1.5" ball joint spacers as a 2" lift spacer.
Likely you have the automatic differential disconnect (ADD) and not auto hubs. You could put on manual hubs in place of the drive flanges, retain the ADD features with the hubs locked and yet unlock the hubs and save CV joint/boot wear.
And a front diff drop can help lower the CV joint angles:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/DiffDrop.shtml
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...cer.shtml#FAQ3
How much lift you can get will likely depend on your tolerance for a rough ride (larger torsion bars = stiffer torsion bars) and cranking up the torsion bars = rougher ride and less suspension down travel (which means a rougher ride). Probably can do 2" lift w/o too much trouble, in fact you'll see some vendors selling the 1.5" ball joint spacers as a 2" lift spacer.
Likely you have the automatic differential disconnect (ADD) and not auto hubs. You could put on manual hubs in place of the drive flanges, retain the ADD features with the hubs locked and yet unlock the hubs and save CV joint/boot wear.
And a front diff drop can help lower the CV joint angles:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/DiffDrop.shtml
#5
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thanks 4crawler thats your who i planned on getting them through but i was wanting to run 33 with out rubbing issues and trying to avoid a body lift at all costs as the truck in my avatar had one and didnt care for it much at all
#6
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You can fit 33's will no issues without any lift. Balljoint spacers and relaxed torsion bars are nice offroad though. I would recommend a slight diff drop since the spacers will cause your CVs to travel down more than the factory intended. I am currently running BJ spacers and if I let the suspension travel all the way down the CVs bind slightly - I need to get a diff drop! Also if you're interested in upgraded torsion bars I have a couple of sets for sale. They can be a nice upgrade depending on your wheeling style.
#7
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alright pm sent and as for the ADD conversion to maunal hubs, if i just put the manual hubs on and didnt mess with the fork in the front end or anything else it would still act like ADD until i unlocked them right? and after i unlocked them does that keep everything in the front end from turning? and would that help out my fuel mileage any?
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