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88' 3VZE Cranks no start

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Old 12-20-2010, 07:19 AM
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RBX
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Question 88' 3VZE Cranks no start

Alright guys I need some help…I’m really getting frustrated
The 88’ 4Runner (3VZE) is not starting. When I started this project she ran rough and had a loping idle, no power. I have since replaced the necessary sensors that were throwing codes, and replaced 90% of the vacuum lines. Then she fired up! No codes and all was good….sort of.
I noticed that she took quite a few cranks to stumble to life, feather the pedal a bit while in stumble, then she would high-idle until warm like she normally did. She idled a little rough because my timing is dead nuts accurate yet…(the idiot that put the rebuilt engine in didn’t find it necessary to put the lower timing cover on) but needless to say she idles pretty well.
So I then checked the Cold Start Injector, it sprays as it should, used my multi-meter to check that and the Cold Start Timer switch, both are in spec. Then I figured I feed some Seafoam through a vacuum line to clean stuff out, I’ve had great success with previous vehicles. Seafoaming did not seem to change much, but I haven’t had her on the road yet either.
Still I have no codes being thrown. A few days pass and I decide t start her up (still takes multiple cranks)to keep things moving, and notice that after about 2 minutes from start, the RPMs will drop, and she dies. From this point it will take less cranks to get her started again, and yes, high idle kicks in because the engine is still could. No time to figure out what is happening, I let her sit for a few days…
Now I get no start…she cranks…but not catching. Spark is good, AFM checks out, TPS adjusted, new Denso O2, New Water Temp Sensor, CST working. I have jumped the FP-B+ to hear the pump run, even tried starting it that way, but no dice. I have a fuel pressure switch on order.
I did notice fuel smell, and that if i let it sit for a few minutes after trying to start it seems to almost stumble to and idle when i try again, but still won't idle.

The only thing I did to the vehicle was reinstall the interior heater blower motor, and crammed it in the corner with all those plugs from the main harness, perhaps I unplugged something? I figured I would get a code if I did. I am really at wits end now, and could really use some help..suggestions?
Thanks for any help
Old 12-20-2010, 10:00 AM
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Definitley go back and check the plugs around the heater box. I dont know if any of them have anything to do with your issues though. Sea foam is good, but it is best to get the engine hot before using it, and then run the pee out of it for a while after the sea foam. You may have killed your o2 sensor. Maybe the TPS sensor is off a little?? I dont know the condition of the engine, but it kinda sounds like maybe a lack of compression(valves, rings) Mine is shot to ˟˟˟˟e and requires multiple cranks and pedal pumps to get her going as well. Maybe try adjusting the dizzy a little for grins?
Old 12-20-2010, 10:17 AM
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Thanks 88
I did get the truck hot before Seafoaming, but have not run the 'p' out of it yet, maybe i should drain the tank....last resort.
I haven't shown any codes, actually i had an AFM code, because i unplugged it by mistake, but i cleared that one. I hope it's not my brand new O2...
Old 12-20-2010, 11:06 AM
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I have always found that when I run seafoam through the engine that it has a hard time starting afterward, and that's after I ran it till all the white smoke stopped pumping out of the exhaust, maybe try disconnecting the battery to reset the ecu. When I reflash ecu's at work or clear codes, I notice sometimes the cars will stumble and almost die at stops. The only way we get it to "relearn" is to disconnect the battery, reconnect, and idle the car with a/c on for about 5 min. and then it's fine.
Old 12-20-2010, 11:09 AM
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Mr. Woods,
Thanks for the suggestion, i pulled the EFI fuse, but this only clears the codes? Makes sense just never thought of disconnecting the battery....how long? 5-10 min, or i know some cars t needs to be 45 minutes.

thanks
Old 12-20-2010, 11:20 AM
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Pull your EFI relay out. Jump the terminals for the switch side of the relay. Should be the two connectors nearest to the front of the truck. One side is fed off igniton power and the other is fed off efi fuse. You should hear another relay click in if you get the right one. With this jumped the truck should fire up and run, if this is the case you either have a bad ground on this circuit or the relay is no good.
Old 12-20-2010, 11:21 AM
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Sorry this is all in the fuse box under the hood.
Old 12-20-2010, 11:22 AM
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Thanks, i ll give that a shot
Old 12-20-2010, 11:36 AM
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Didn't see a "Replaced the Fuel Filter" in there.... have you done that? Mine got worse and worse, then eventually would barely start(on another rig than my current). Replaced the Fuel Filter and it started right up. However, the crap in the lines FROM the filter to rail wound up shooting something into injector #2 and completely shut it down. Had to tear down the intake again.

Not sure on the blower motor.... check all your lines, as suggested... They don't pull any vacuum, I don't think, so not sure how it would cause a "no start" condition.

Was going to suggest compression test...but reading back I see you said "reman motor" in there, somewhere? Might wanna check, anyway, just to be sure nothing froze up(even then, I wouldn't think it would cause a no start. I had under 100# on 3 of my holes and still started on the first turn of the starter/flywheel).

Have you made sure you're getting spark? Rotor's good? Cap isn't seriously cracked? Coil good? Seems more like a EFI issue, from what you described gradually happening... But just to set up a good Process Of Elimination, eh?

So you're getting fuel to the rail and out the CSI.... how bout the injectors? Maybe check for spark, then when verified you're getting spark, pull a plug and check for gas in the hole?

I see you have an 87 Parts rig... Still have the ECU? I know they have different resistance values on certain things....but it should still start with it. Just to rule it out, being that it's such a simple swap.(if you have it of course, lol)

Not very knowledgeable with the 3.0.... but does it have a Voltage Resistor for the Injectors?

Make sure of the basics, brudda....

1. Getting spark?
2. Getting Fuel IN THE HOLES?
3. Got decent IGN components, all working order and good readings?
4. Compression tight?

Best wishes man, ..sorry to hear. Sorry, as well, that I'm not much help, haha.
Old 12-20-2010, 04:23 PM
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yep. spark, fuel, compression, and time. how "good" is your spark? and is your PCM grounded? engine grounded?
Old 12-20-2010, 04:48 PM
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Thanks for the help guys, I'll give the suggestions a try.
I have spark but nit sure how good.
Fuel filter was not replaced that I know of so I will check that.
I put two 4awg wires as grounds when I did the knock sensor in place of the stockers.
But PCM? Sorry it just escapes me right now.
Oh and I haven't checked compression, but I can do that just might he a day or two till I get time.

Last edited by RBX; 12-20-2010 at 04:49 PM.
Old 12-20-2010, 10:17 PM
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To me it sounds like a fuel delivery problem. I agree with Chef. I had an old M38A1 jeep with similar symptoms. I replaced the fuel filter and it would run fine for a day or two. Took me almost six to realize that the inside of the gas tank was rusting out. I got a new gas tank and replaced the 2 filters I had put in line and it ran like a champ (until the head gasket blew).
Old 12-21-2010, 04:19 AM
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Had no time last night to do anything, and it's really cold(my choice to build a rig, rather then build a garage is a fridged decision).
Ordered a mechanical fuel gauge so i can check pressure, Hopefully after work i can check/replace the fuel filter.
I was told to check the EFI Relay, the FSM(90-95 since toyota didn't think the 88 should need an FSM for the 3weez) says its under the hood in the black box, but i think that is wrong.
Thanks again for all your help guys.
Old 12-21-2010, 03:21 PM
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Update still same issue no start
Replace the efi relay
Unplugged the battery for a few hours to clear the ecu.
I checked the connections behind the blower and everything seems tight, but it is cold out and I'm having trouble seeing every wire to make sure there are no broken or shorted wires.
This is making me crazy cuz I have a feeling it's something really simple.
I'm going to try to replace the fuel filter next
Old 12-21-2010, 03:24 PM
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Can I really swap ecu's from a 22re to a 3vze?
Old 12-21-2010, 05:36 PM
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Im a dumby. She was out of gas! Buti didn't realize my fuel gauge isn't working.
Thanks for the help, I knew something was up when I didn't get a gas bath when I replaced the furl filter just now.
Old 12-21-2010, 06:16 PM
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Just pretend this never happened...
Old 12-21-2010, 09:59 PM
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Man, I dont know if I would have admitted to that! I think I would have claimed a "loose ground found, or something a little more technical! =) Not saying it hasnt happened to me. I once spent 3 hours on the side of a trail in Moab working on a carb adjustment, and then realized I never reattached the coil wire. Doh!! Glad it worked out, and now you know a little more about your rig!
Old 12-22-2010, 03:05 AM
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Sometimes i need my peers to humble me, and yeah it was a stupid mistake.
In my defense this is why i didn't think it was fuel:
Jumped the Fuel Pump and heard the whizzing/hissing
Fuel guage read half full(or half empty, whatever you prefer)
Could smell fuel on crank
CSI test with glass yielded fuel(not sure how much is normal amount)
CSI taken off to clean, fuel gushing when broken loose

And i did state earlier that i thought it was something simple....my oversight!
She still isn't running tip-top, but that should be sorted when i do the timing belt, and install the lower timing cover...yeah the idiot that did the engine install didn't think that was a necessary part!
Ok, back to my build thread

But I learn,
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