86 4Runner Windshield Leak, Upper Seal and Trim Missing (84-89 4Runner, 84-88 Pickup)
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
86 4Runner Windshield Leak, Upper Seal and Trim Missing (84-89 4Runner, 84-88 Pickup)
Hey all... I've been having a persistent leak in my windshield and I'm looking for advice on how to seal it, short of going to a window guy to do it. The reason: because of the age and specialty of the 1st gen 4Runners/2nd gen pickups, and because they're glued in, everybody is either saying a) we can't do it or b) "it will cost a kidney to do it because we'll probably break your windshield to get it out and it'll require some body work to get the rust out, make a good seal, etc.", or some version thereof.
The upper seal and trim are missing, probably flew off a long time ago. You can literally see a cavity above the windshield (see pics). Obviously, this leaks bad in rain.
Question: what can I use to fill in the void above and around the windshield that will not promote rusting (I learned about some types of acid silicone sealant that will do this).
The upper seal and trim are missing, probably flew off a long time ago. You can literally see a cavity above the windshield (see pics). Obviously, this leaks bad in rain.
Question: what can I use to fill in the void above and around the windshield that will not promote rusting (I learned about some types of acid silicone sealant that will do this).
#2
Registered User
This thread should help: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-maker-107858/
#3
Not necessarily, unless you see it actually leak. The trim is superficial- in fact, it causes rust.
The glass is really glued on with a very strong urethane adhesive.
No Trim and filled with adhesive:
I used Dow Corning 995 Silicone. It uses stearic acid for solvent. Stearic acid is supposedly used for rust-proofing. This was before I learned that Urethane windshield adhesive is much more robust than silicone.
You still need to prep the crevice very well to prevent rust.
Attachment 110151
Attachment 110152
Attachment 110153
The glass is really glued on with a very strong urethane adhesive.
I learned about some types of acid silicone sealant that will do this).
I used Dow Corning 995 Silicone. It uses stearic acid for solvent. Stearic acid is supposedly used for rust-proofing. This was before I learned that Urethane windshield adhesive is much more robust than silicone.
You still need to prep the crevice very well to prevent rust.
Attachment 110151
Attachment 110152
Attachment 110153
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 11-28-2021 at 09:13 PM.
#4
YT Community Team
It's kinda hard to tell by the photos how extensive the rust is in the channel. If it's superficial it may be worth the time to pull the glass(if it breaks new windshields are around $200-$250 last I checked) and treat the rust, primer/paint.
If you get the glass out without breaking you could even glue it back in yourself, just get the proper adhesive. Windshield adhesive is thick and sets pretty fast, so you have to be efficient and have everything ready and nearby. A good 18:1 caulking gun is helpful.
The molding clips are held in by the same adhesive, so if you're replacing those be ready to do at same time.
If the rust has actually created holes then you got some tougher decisions to make.
Most body shops hate dealing with rust. Hard to get rid of(labor intensive, which means $$$), and often comes back. Most bid high hoping you don't accept.
If you get the glass out without breaking you could even glue it back in yourself, just get the proper adhesive. Windshield adhesive is thick and sets pretty fast, so you have to be efficient and have everything ready and nearby. A good 18:1 caulking gun is helpful.
The molding clips are held in by the same adhesive, so if you're replacing those be ready to do at same time.
If the rust has actually created holes then you got some tougher decisions to make.
Most body shops hate dealing with rust. Hard to get rid of(labor intensive, which means $$$), and often comes back. Most bid high hoping you don't accept.
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11-08-2012 08:33 PM