Philbert

iTrader: (2)

[quote=hgill;51647453]
1. Tow Bar does not fit anymore. Since the rear mount needs to be welded a few inches back, The tow bar needed to be removed as it mounts the bottom of the frame rail or behind stock rear spring mounts.
quote]


I've wondered about this too - I took some measurements last year for the chevy swap and noticed the tow bar would be in the way. Wonder if you can cut/modify the tow bar and retain functionality? Welding it to the frame is not an option I know....

Eagerly awaiting pics (or just to see it when you bring it to work )

myyota

Im just wondering if the chevy spring are old or used or what ?. The 63'' 5'' lift chevy springs on the back of my 4Runner don`t sag at all, there is not body roll and they flex like crazy. The rear springs were new when they were installed.

hgill

Yaah, the tow bar looks pretty challenging.

Currently, the tow bar attaches to two holes on the frame rail. One of the hole is covered due to the relocated spring hanger, but the second one is in the clear. I was thinking if it was possible to extend the frame rail by welding a 1.5" 'square metal block'. Then I can put my tow bar back on. Not sure if this is doable or recommended.

There is definitely space to add that extra block at the back of the frame rail.

Philbert, I hope to be done this weekend and bring my truck to work on monday (provided my alignment is not completely out of wack!) and I will give you a shout! Maybe you can chime in some ideas about the tow bar n bumper thingie.

I also need your help by measuring the height of the bumpstop spacers and sway bar spacer bracket on your truck so I can have some fabb'ed. I got a used IFS kit and it didnt come with those things.

Stuwy123

iTrader: (1)

I kinda did my own thing with the shackles.
I didn't want to move the rear shackle mounts.
I made my own front hanger, bought some new bushings and bolts for the springs.
I left one spring and mounted and tacked one mout in place, to keep the axle in the same place.
Then I did the other side.
I made some shackles, I believe they are somewhere in the 7-9" range.
I cranked the front torsion bars up and she's not quite level but you'd be hard pressed to tell, less rake than my buddy's stock 05+ tacoma.
They work great. Gotta get another shock on under there. Much better ride.

A 4" lift up front to match chevy's in the rear? You must've made some big shackles or did you get a 4 leaf +1 overload leaf pack? I'm only running a 3+1 pack. All I really need for my truck.

hgill

Stuwy123, all the hardware was from 'low range offroad' and I think the shackles are 6" eye-to-eye. My Chevy leafs are from '96 2WD Chevy 1500 = 3 Leaves + OL.

Now, when I refer to the 5" lift, Im comparing it to the old stock springs I had earlier (practically flat after 20 years). So, the lift can be 2-3" if you have good arched toyota springs and it also depends on the chevy springs. The springs I got from Pick-n-Pull looked pretty brand new for some reason.

I recall the truck looked pretty straight with the flat springs in the rear, so 4" bracket lift + BJ Spacers should level stuff out. *fingers crossed* My back-up plan is to add a 1" block at the back if needed, but that would be jokes!

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Cool, Harbir - looking forward to seeing it in person!

I'll try to get to the measuring this weekend. If you don't hear from me, ping me on work email

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Hey Harbir,

Thanks again for showing me your truck at work yesterday - looks fantastic!

I think you should skip the mudguards, or as I recommended, at least get some wheel spacers or wider tires to go with your new lift.

Guys - he doesn't have photos posted yet, but the lift is CLEAN! He put a 4" bracket lift up front, with new ball joints and 1.5" BJ spacers and it looks great. Bilsteins all around, and the 63" Chevys in the rear - looks level and clean. The only potential issue is that the rear axle doesn't seem to be centered in the wheel well, and it looks like the rear tires would bump up into the rear wheel well corner with any flex...is this normal and is it a problem?

Harbir - when you do get around to posting photos, you should show off your engine and interior mods too - they look great!

No 4runner at work for me today....taking Datsun in

hgill

Finally got done with the whole suspension work this past weekend ...

Here are the pictures as promised

Before Swap / Lift:





During / After Rear Chevy Install. ~5.5" lift from before





After IFS Lift (4" Bracket Lift + 1.5" BJ Spacers + Slight Torsion Bar Crank]







Issues / Concerns / Feedback

- Much smoother ride than before. Chevy springs give good lift and flex great. Was expecting 2-3" lift, but ended up with ~5.5" with the camper weight. Great Swap .. except a few headaches mentioned below

- As Phil mentioned, is the rear axle not being centered going to be a problem? Mechanic recommended having the axle slightly back to have a longer wheelbase and better stability with all the lift/height. (Not sure if that reasoning is BS). Doesn't seem like a problem.

- Driveline vibrations after swap due to highly extended propeller shaft. Need to extend it by 2.5" and have it rebalanced.

-Rear bumper mounting bracket hits the shackles. Supposedly not a problem on 89 or earlier gen. Recommended to install spacers to move the L bracket outward. Will post pictures once done.

-Unable to mount the Tow Bar. The rear spring hanger had to be repositioned slightly back so the tow bar mount is obstructed now. Need to look into a fix for that.

-Too much lift maybe?... need a ladder to climb into the truck for DD .. .. rock sliders next?

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Wheel spacers and taller, wider tires to match your new gears

camo31_10.50

it looks like your front spring mount needs to be moved FORWARD about a half inch or an inch, and your shackle mount moved forward about a half inch or inch. maybe even more for both of them.

all of the 63" chevy swaps i seen put the axle in the center of the wheel well like it was factory.

hgill

Probably wont be doing it .... I have noticed that unless I specifically point it out, it doesn't even get noticed. Even with 33" Tires, it wont be hitting the fender at all when my usual DD or weekend dirt roads. Not even close...there is lots of space. Im not into Rock crawling .. however, there is always the option of fender trimming if needed...lol

camo31_10.50

ya know, it might not even hit the fender when flexed.


go out and flex it out and see if it rubs?

hgill

yaah .. I think the same ... Im gona try to flex it once I get this driveline fixed ... its extended way way too far .. any big bump, I think its gona pop out.

Stuwy123

iTrader: (1)

I drove my truck around in a similar fashion to picture 3 and 4 for a little bit (not quite so much rake). Kinda funny.
You ended up getting way more lift then I did. Not sure what happened there.
You definitely need some taller and wider tires to be running with that much lift. Hahah.
I think you might have too much lift in the front... Could be the pics.
Easy way to find out. Find a super level spot (workshop or whatever), break out the 4 or better level. I used a digital level. I measured my buddies stock 07 tacoma (level on the bed rail). I adjusted my torsion bars accordingly. I ended up with slightly less rake then my buddy's tacoma.
If you move your axle back to the stock location, you won't have to modify your driveshaft and potentially end up with a wobbly / unbalanced driveshaft.

Your rear shackle angle is a little steep. Should be closer to 45 degrees. Mine's at around 35 degrees, makes for a smooth ride.

Yes, the taller you go, the more of a jump you gotta take to get in. You get used to it. Hahah. It's funny watching passengers get in. 75% of the time they jump too much and smoke their head.

myyota

Actually the rear axle not being centered is very noticeable.

scuba

I do kind of agree with the above post.

Though, the shackle angle looks REALLY good so if you move anything forward I'd move both mounts forward a little bit.
Remember that as the axle flexes the shackles flatten meaning the tire will move back. I think it'll rub if you step up to a larger tire. But, I could be wrong.
And please, don't be like every other dingle berry out there that doesn't properly bumpstop the rear end.

Stuwy123

iTrader: (1)

I made a U-bolt flip plate and just welded the old bumpstops onto the top of it after everything was installed.

scuba

Thats cool and all, but did you extend the upper strike mount down so the leaves don't go negative arch?

Stuwy123

iTrader: (1)

I've never checked to see if they hit the stops before the leaves go negative.
But I've I manage to get these leaves to go negative, I've got bigger problems than wearing out my leaves. I'd be getting airborn or bending something else.
Chevy leaves are cheap. Not too worried. Bumpstops are a last resort, and they are there.