yoterguy

I'll try to be as thorough as possible in explaining this ˟˟˟˟ box I call my 4Runner. Couple months ago I had a code pop for bad knock sensor. Truck ran fine just drank a ˟˟˟˟ ton of gas and didn't have the power she used to. So I decided to do the knock sensor removed everything very carefully replaced the knock sensor and put everything back together. Tried to start it and a whole bunch of nothing happened. Spitting and sputtering is all she's doing. Made sure I had the vaccum system hooked up right and that's all good there. Finally got it to somewhat run after holding the key saying ˟˟˟˟ it I'm pissed while simultaneously having a friend ˟˟˟˟ with the throttle under the hood. It'll stay running as long as you keep the throttle body open,but max rpm wide open is 3500 rpm and if you let it go it will die. Replaced the cap and rotor also to make sure I hadn't accidentally bumped it or something,no avail. I'm wondering if I might have caused it to jump time when I loosened the top timing belt tensioner pulley to remove the intake? Somebody help. I'll take any kind of ideas at this point.

scope103

Well, that's where I'd start. It's not hard to check. Just remove the upper timing cover (so you can see the cam sprockets), and turn the crank to TDC with a wrench (don't forget there are two TDCs; if the cam marks are pointing down instead of up, just turn the crank once more). At TDC, both cam sprocket arrows should point up.

If that's good, check your ignition timing. Code 52 causes the ECU to dramatically retard timing. If it "ran okay," someone might have advanced the timing a lot to cover it up. Now that the knock sensor is working, your timing could be way off.

Last, retrace your steps. What did you remove or fiddle with, and look closely at each of those items. It seems a "no start" condition is frequently something which, in retrospect, was very obvious.

yoterguy

Sweet thanks, I'll do that today. I'll reply with an update after I check the timing belt tonight

yoterguy

alright so pulled the timing cover and I can' get the cam marks to line up with the marks on the back of the timing cover. I've spun the crankshaft 4 times and lined up the timing mark with 0 and the cam gears still don't line up with marks on the gears and the rear cover.

scope103

Now, don't you feel bad calling your sweet ride all those bad names?
In case it helps, here's the manual section on the timing belt:
http://web.archive.org/web/201003261...67timingbe.pdf
(This is for a '93. You didn't give a year, and in earlier models the hydraulic tensioner is replaced with a spring tensioner.)

yoterguy

Lol I'll feel bad about calling her bad names if the timing belt fixes it. It's a 1995 thanks again dude. I'm going to go pick up the timing kit tomorrow from Napa.

yoterguy

Think I'll be alright if I rotate that cam gear clockwise till the marks line up again?

scope103

The 3VZE is a "non-interference" engine; you can rotate the cams all you want and the valves won't hit a piston.

As you've probably figured out, installation of the timing belt is all about managing the slack. Since you CAN "back up" the cam, it's best to leave the crank at TDC, back up the driver's side cam just enough to get the belt on and pull the slack out so the cam is now correct. Do the same for the other cam. The "rest" of the slack is managed by the tensioner. Spin the crank twice after you have the tension back on the belt; if you were careful the cams will come right back to where they belong.

yoterguy

So just to make sure the timing was my my problem. I loosened the top tensioner again and as soon as I did the left cam gear sprung back and lined up the markins on the back of the timing cover. Bolted the tensioner down and started her up....�� Of course that ˟˟˟˟ runs like new now

yoterguy

alright, well its running now, but not running good enough to drive. idles fine, but when I try to drive it, no power whatsoever. 2nd gear feels like its dying going up a hill barely moves....

scope103

Any codes? Did you check ignition timing? (You'll need a $20 timing light, and don't forget the jumper TE1-E1).

yoterguy

Yeah code 52 is back. Gonna pick up a timing light today. Code 52 is knock sensor, I'm sure you already knew that though. Engine light is off when I start the truck, then comes on when I start to drive the vehicle.

scope103

You didn't mention replacing the "pigtail" from the knock sensor to the harness. That's in a hellish environment, and is MUCH more likely to fail than the sensor itself.