tb

Hi there. I just did a head gasket job last weekend when I was at school and got the truck running great.

I timed the motor by ear and it ran fine. I drove home this weekend and checked with a timing light to fine adjust it and found it was running at about 25 degrees BTDC. I turned the distributor and it hit the bolt at 5 degrees BTDC. It actually idled a bit better but had no power and wouldn't rev past 2k. I adjusted it back to 20 degrees or so just to get home and now the timing chain is making a lot of noise. It still runs fine, gets normal gas mileage and hasn't lost any power.

I am sure the cam timing is correct and have moved the distributor a tooth each way and it ran rough both ways. There wasn't a spacer for the distributor bolt before I did the HG so I don't think that is the issue. TPS hasn't been checked but it seems to be a bigger issue than that. Valves have been adjusted as well. The timing chain wasn't done during the head gasket job and I realized I may have to replace it but I would like to fix the timing issue first.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. I have searched endlessly and I have yet to find a fix to this sort of problem.

tb

Anyone have any ideas? Is there a possibility the noise could be a bearing? It definitely sounds like its coming from the top front of the engine but oil pressure has always shown up low on the gauge and it has been using quite a bit of oil lately even though its not burning blue at all and obviously isn't a hg issue. Still working on the timing but no luck so far.

raydouble

Did you jump the diagnostic box when you were timing it?

I would start over, roll up to TDC and restick distributor....... jump the box to revert to base timing and set timing.

tb

Thanks for the reply. I was thinking the same thing and started over again. I tried turning the chain a tooth either way on the cam gear and got it so that at 5 degrees BTDC is when the distributor bolt is in the center of the channel.

It still bogs badly at 5 degrees and runs best at 20 or 25. After driving it around for a while i noticed that it only seem to have about 80% power, which is really noticeable at low rpms (1000-2400) which I'm thinking the timing is responsible for. Also I think I traced the noise to 2 chips out of the cam gear that contacts the distributor gear. Does anyone know what would account for this?

rustyruststang88

im dealing with about the same problem. how do you jump the dianostics box? and i have the timing set at 12 deg. and were is the spout you have to disconnect to mess with timing or does this truck have one.

tb

The diagnostic box is the little box right beside the fuse box. You have to put a jumper (piece of wire) between the TE+ and E+ port. Its easy enough to figure out by looking in a manual or online. If you have an early 22re (1985 only I believe but someone can correct me on that) you have to put a jumper on the ports of the diagnosis plug located above the passenger side fender. It should have 2 wires going to it and have a rubber cap on it.

As far as my problem it beats the crap out of me what it was. The only thing it really could have been was the cam gear was off a tooth but for life of me I couldn't get it to work so I gave up and just replaced the timing chain. It only took me 4 hours or so but I've done one before. Runs like a top now.

Karlton

Images compliments of raydouble:
ADJUST IGNITION TIMING
(a) Using SST 09843–18020 (you can use a paper clip), connect terminals TE1 and E1 of the DLC
(b) Check the idle speed. Idle speed: 750 rpm
(c) Using a timing light, check the ignition timing. Ignition timing: 5 degrees BTDC @ idle
(d) Loosen the hold–down bolt, and adjust by turning the distributor.
(e) Tighten the hold–down bolt, and recheck the ignition timing. Torque: 19 N–m (195 kgf–cm, 14 ft–lbf)
(f) Remove the SST 09843–18020 (or paper clip)
FURTHER CHECK IGNITION TIMING
Check that the ignition timing advances. Ignition timing: 10 – 14 degrees BTDC @ idle

YFZsandrider

Your directions were to trip the two terminals in the diagnostic box, then check idle speed. I did mine in the reverse order, and the idle speed dropped around 200 RPM when the terminals were crossed... is that normal??

And if you are supposed to set the idle speed after tripping the terminals, won't it jump up in RPM after the timing is set and you disconnect your short wire?!

Karlton

I don't want to take credit where credit isn't due. They are not really "my" instructions, but instructions copied out of the '93 FSM. I've double-checked and the FSM does say to jump the terminals first.

If nothing else, these instructions serve as a good baseline for tweaking your idle and timing. I know some guys like to tune by ear.

I just followed the instructions, and haven't looked back. My truck has no dash tachometer, but I have an external tachometer I can hookup when I get a chance, because now I am curious to see where my idle is at. I don't recall any major drop or bump in RPM when I did it a number of months ago.

kevin g

To Homeless dog and truck. you mentioned that the key way on the crank has to be in the up position, does this mean 12 o'clock? and the cam pin is also at 12 o'clock. So would that make the timing marks on the cam gear at around 11:55?
And what exactly is the cam pin?
The reason im asking is because im about to do a complete timing chain/sprocket/tensioner replacement and im trying to get as much info as possible

Thanks!

abecedarian

Crank and cam keyway's at 12:00, chain timing mark on cam sprocket at ~ 11:50-11:55.

DeathCougar

iTrader: (23)

I would say about 11:52 with 39 seconds

kevin g

OK thanks! So as long as the cam and crank are at 12 o'clock Im good to go? and the cam sprocket will just end up at 11:50 or whatever time, as it slides on the cam? Im not timing the engine by using the cam sprocket marks as a reference right?

raydouble

The valve lash is supposed to be adjusted with engine at operating temp.

raydouble

I wondered........

Not everyone knows that though, just putting it out there.

kevin g

You guys are awsome! Thanks so much Homeless dog and truck! And anybody use a speedi sleeve kit for the harmonic balancer?

kevin g

Ok I might not sleeve the harmonic balancer, depending on how it looks. Iv'e never done one before and I can't afford the time to redo a screw up at this moment lol.