Dezertoyota

My 94 22re pings under load slightly with 87 octane. My distributor is clocked all the way and no adjustment is left. I was worried if I pulled it out and rotated it a whole tooth it would retard the timing to far to get it to run. Is there anyting I can do besides running higher octane??

Im running this cam with a mild pocket port job, thats it.

http://cranecams.com/?show=browsePar...tType=camshaft

Anyone have a link to stock 22re cam specs?

superjoe83

For 1975 and up 20R's and non EFI 22R's:
Intake Duration- 272 degrees
Exhaust Duration- 248 degrees
Intake Lift- 10.1 mm
Exhaust Lift- 9.7 mm

For EFI 22R's:
Intake Duration- 248 degrees
Exhaust Duration- 280 degrees
Intake Lift- 10.0 mm
Exhaust Lift- 9.7 mm

superjoe83

what do you have your timing set to now?

bob200587

run 93...its worth it.

Dezertoyota

Not when its your DD and all you want to do is point A to B with little $$$.

Its at around 20 degrees at idle (I think its been a while since I checked)

superjoe83

20 degrees with the check connector shorted, or just normal? that sound like too much...

i think Toyota spec is 5 with the connector shorted

Dezertoyota

I just checked the timing again...At idle (Don't have tach or meter but idle sounds close enough) it is about 3/4 of an inch from the last mark on the degree casting.

Better explanation....
On my degree casting (facing the engine) I have 0, then 5 to the left of that then two unmarked degree lines to the left of the 5. What are the degrees for these last two marks? Its about 3/4" to the left of the last casting mark.

If I pull the distributor and rotate it will I get close to 5 at idle or will I be to far advanced?

jimbo74

you are running 20 degrees advanced? no wonder its pinging! retard that!

superjoe83

did you put a paper clip in the correct ports in the diagnostic port? if you did and the timing changed, but is still off the scale then you may have to pull the dist. and retard it 1 tooth, if the idle or timing did not change when you shorted the terminals, then you most likely have a problem with the TPS, and i think that those other two marks are 8 and 10, but dont quote me on that

2ToyGuy

the next two marks are 12 and 18. You should set your dist to 12 then short teh test connector TE1 to E1 and it should go to 5, at idle of 700-900rpm. Too high an idle and you'll get surging when you step on the brake, due to the ECU sending an "idle cut" signal. But if you're pinging, the first thing to do is retard the timing. Even a few degrees is enough to cure the problem sometimes. But it's usually best to set it where the factory reccommends.

Here's a pretty helpful link.

kyle_22r

might try running some seafoam or water through a *small* vacuum line. you could have carbon build-up which would artificially raise the compression, or create hot spots in the cylinder head/pistons which can cause pinging.

Dezertoyota

Facing the dist from the driver side...When I pull it out do I rotate it clockwise or counterclockwise to retard the timing?

2ToyGuy

CCW to retard. If teh dist is installed correctly, you don't have to worry about it, though. Just make sure that your #1 piston is TDC, the main timing mark is at 0*, and then, when you go to put the dist in, make sure the rotor is pointed right at 12:00. It'll turn CCW as you put it in and it engages the drive gear, and once it's all teh way in, you can check that the pickup is aligned with teh little magnetic tooth on the rotor shaft, and that the rotor is pointed towords the #1 plug wire. That'll get your timing close enough to start it up, then set the timing to 12* BTDC, short TE1 to E1 in the test jumper area and it should drop back to 5* BTDC. ANd voila! Your truck is timed right

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

You want 5 BTDC with the timing jumper installed:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...CheckConnector
or about 12 BTDC w/o the jumper. And if the timing/idle does not change w/ jumper installation, check and adjust your TPS, it is most likely out of whack. I run stock timing, TRD Level 1 cam, 87 (or even 85) octane and no pinging.

Dezertoyota

I clocked the distributor back a tooth to retard the timing. I have it set inbetween the two lines on the dial (12 degrees?) I then put the jumper into TE1 and E1 and...voila my timing stayed where its at .

The idle sounds fine but if I drive it, it acts up. If I give it gas it falls on its face (bogs really badly).

The TPS is brand new, does it just need adjusting? Its a pain to adjust because the thermostat housing is in the way!

What about the air/fuel mixture screw...How far is it supposed to be screwed in or out?

Whats wrong with this truck?

2ToyGuy

The AFM screw is pretty much to set the idle speed, but the TPS HAS to be aligned correctly first. If the TPS is out of align, especially the idle settings, a lot of things will be screwy. Yes, the TPS is a royal pain to align with the throttle body on teh truck, but a 90* screwdriver will usually reach to loosen the bottom screw. I would definately do the TPS check/alignment before declaring any further troubles. And really, the thermostat housing isn't really all that hard to get off. Just have to drain some coolant.

Anyhow, here's a link on how-to. Hope that helps a little.

The TPS alignment is crucial, and yes, even a new TPS can be out of alignment. Even a very small error can really mess a lot of things up...

Dezertoyota

Fixed the problem...After noticing the idle didnt change when the jumper was in I figured Id adjust the TPS. Ended up the TPS wasnt quite clocked right (no continutity)and the throttle stop screw needed adjusting.

The distributor was clocked right it was just the TPS that threw everything off. Its perfect now!

I bought this truck a few months back for really cheap but it ended up having lots of problems.

Ive allready had the complete engine apart myself to do a head gasket, oil pump, water pump, fix leaking oil pan, followers, valve job, crane cam, cap, rotor, plug wires, fixed mixed up vacumm lines, cleaned gummed up TB and intake manifold, radiator hoses, belts, the list goes on ..To not have it run right after all that was really frustrating. Now it runs really good after this last TPS problem I got fixed. All this only cost me $700 not bad at all.

Thanks for the help