1990 4Runner 3.0L 4X4 WON'T CRANK!
10-29-2012, 11:33 AM
#21
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on my facebook 4 runner forum someone posted this up for me...
20R, 2.2L, 90 HP@4800, 122 Ft-Lbs@2400
22R, 2.4L, 96 HP@4800, 129 Ft-Lbs@2800
22RE, 2.4L, 112 HP@4600, 142 Ft-Lbs@3400
22RTE, 2.4L, 135 HP@4800, 173 Ft-Lbs@2800, 6psi
20R/22R Hybrid, Estimated 135-155 HP depending on build
2RZFE, 2.4L, 142 HP@5000, 160 Ft-Lbs@4000
3RZFE, 2.7L, 150 HP@4800, 177 Ft-Lbs@4000
3VZ-E, 3.0L, 150 HP@4800, 180 Ft-Lbs@3400
5VZ-FE,3.4L, 190 HP@4800, 220 Ft-Lbs@3600
5M-GE, 2.7L, 143 HP@5200, 154 Ft-Lbs@4400
7M-GE, 3.0L, 199 HP@6000, 188 Ft-Lbs@3600
7M-GTE,3.0L, 232 HP@5600, 254 Ft-Lbs@3200, 5psi
20R, 2.2L, 90 HP@4800, 122 Ft-Lbs@2400
22R, 2.4L, 96 HP@4800, 129 Ft-Lbs@2800
22RE, 2.4L, 112 HP@4600, 142 Ft-Lbs@3400
22RTE, 2.4L, 135 HP@4800, 173 Ft-Lbs@2800, 6psi
20R/22R Hybrid, Estimated 135-155 HP depending on build
2RZFE, 2.4L, 142 HP@5000, 160 Ft-Lbs@4000
3RZFE, 2.7L, 150 HP@4800, 177 Ft-Lbs@4000
3VZ-E, 3.0L, 150 HP@4800, 180 Ft-Lbs@3400
5VZ-FE,3.4L, 190 HP@4800, 220 Ft-Lbs@3600
5M-GE, 2.7L, 143 HP@5200, 154 Ft-Lbs@4400
7M-GE, 3.0L, 199 HP@6000, 188 Ft-Lbs@3600
7M-GTE,3.0L, 232 HP@5600, 254 Ft-Lbs@3200, 5psi
10-29-2012, 11:37 AM
#22
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so basically at the moment with my 3.0L im getting max 150 if even that. well the car aint starting so right now its not even 1HP with me pushing the car over the line...
well actually yeah right now it is 1HP (not horse power but human power) lol
so if i went to the engine swap thats apparently easy so this other dude says as well --> POSTED :
(I’d like to have a round table discussion about engine swaps for a 1st gen 4Runner.
I’ve always loved the 1st gen, but being from MA, finding a clean example was like seeing a unicorn. I’ve owned a 3rd gen. and now own a 4th gen, but I plan on adding a 1st gen. to the family while there are still some rust free trucks to be found (I live in TX now). After driving the 4.0 liter V6, I’d hate to drive anything slower. The 3.0 is garbage and the 22RE is just too anemic for me.
What are some swaps that you’ve seen that you’ve liked? I’ve read up on some of the more popular ones. The 3.4 swap appears to be super easy if you have a 3.0, but I’m not terribly impressed with the 190hp V6. I don’t want to pigeon hole the conversation with a budget, but maybe $3000 for just the drive train. 3.4, UZ, 7MGTE (I love boost), SBC? Without saying “read up on pirate/toyatech”, what have you day-dreamed about? )
back to what i was saying now. im gonna gain --> 40HP. ok thats pretty cool.
how much would it cost to rip my old engine out and put this baby in... and would the gearbox stay the same and everything else. ?
secondly. would i be able to go higher then that and go 7M-GTE, 3.0L with 232HP and run that at 5-7psi or more depending on turbo setup but factory 5 ???
well actually yeah right now it is 1HP (not horse power but human power) lol
so if i went to the engine swap thats apparently easy so this other dude says as well --> POSTED :
(I’d like to have a round table discussion about engine swaps for a 1st gen 4Runner.
I’ve always loved the 1st gen, but being from MA, finding a clean example was like seeing a unicorn. I’ve owned a 3rd gen. and now own a 4th gen, but I plan on adding a 1st gen. to the family while there are still some rust free trucks to be found (I live in TX now). After driving the 4.0 liter V6, I’d hate to drive anything slower. The 3.0 is garbage and the 22RE is just too anemic for me.
What are some swaps that you’ve seen that you’ve liked? I’ve read up on some of the more popular ones. The 3.4 swap appears to be super easy if you have a 3.0, but I’m not terribly impressed with the 190hp V6. I don’t want to pigeon hole the conversation with a budget, but maybe $3000 for just the drive train. 3.4, UZ, 7MGTE (I love boost), SBC? Without saying “read up on pirate/toyatech”, what have you day-dreamed about? )
back to what i was saying now. im gonna gain --> 40HP. ok thats pretty cool.
how much would it cost to rip my old engine out and put this baby in... and would the gearbox stay the same and everything else. ?
secondly. would i be able to go higher then that and go 7M-GTE, 3.0L with 232HP and run that at 5-7psi or more depending on turbo setup but factory 5 ???
10-29-2012, 11:37 AM
#23
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If it's turning over but doesnt fire/start try changing the "igniter coil". It fixed the problem for me and I had replaced the previous igniter less than a year before... Just saying could be it if it ran before... same thing happened to me... also had a similar problem because the battery I had bought the truck with was half the size that it shouldve had. Just a couple cheaper suggestions... granted your motor is not seized. good luck
10-29-2012, 11:51 AM
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Well man the cost depends on a lot of things. Are you going to do the swap by yourself?
If you are looking for power and have plenty of money to spend, get a carbureted Chevy 350! You'll need a new trans, transfer case, and driveshafts.
The 3.4 would also be an excellent choice. They are very strong engines and last forever. You could find one pretty cheap on Craigslist. You could find a Chevy 350 even cheaper but then you'll need all the other stuff I mentioned.
Are you doing the swap yourself?
If you are looking for power and have plenty of money to spend, get a carbureted Chevy 350! You'll need a new trans, transfer case, and driveshafts.
The 3.4 would also be an excellent choice. They are very strong engines and last forever. You could find one pretty cheap on Craigslist. You could find a Chevy 350 even cheaper but then you'll need all the other stuff I mentioned.
Are you doing the swap yourself?
10-29-2012, 11:52 AM
#27
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are you just using it mainly as offroad or daily driver? If it's going to be just for fun then you can always regear... to get more power and less mpg... Trust me I know how you feel... I used to be all about the fast cars and horsepower until I moved to Utah. Yes our 3.0's are underpowered but the rest of the package makes up for it. If you have your heart set on swapping then you can research and see how far you're willing to go. drop in a diesel for 15K or go the other route and do a 3.4... or keep what you have... Just search and you'll find all sorts of swaps....
my opinion get it fixed if its not dead... then go shred some trails... if you want to go through puddles then get a snorkel like 4x4 runner said ... and go from there.. you may realize that in 4 low and maybe some new gearing you wont feel the "need" to swap... just my 2 cents.
my opinion get it fixed if its not dead... then go shred some trails... if you want to go through puddles then get a snorkel like 4x4 runner said ... and go from there.. you may realize that in 4 low and maybe some new gearing you wont feel the "need" to swap... just my 2 cents.
10-30-2012, 12:02 AM
#28
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just found out its a bin job... 
the mechanic told me to get a SWB patrol. $3000 down the drain. the car is up for sale as WRECKING if anyone needs parts for a 4Runner 1992...
get at me
the mechanic told me to get a SWB patrol. $3000 down the drain. the car is up for sale as WRECKING if anyone needs parts for a 4Runner 1992... get at me
11-13-2012, 08:50 PM
#30
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Let's start with vocabulary. I like:
Won't crank: the motor won't turn over. At all.
Won't fire: it cranks, but I don't hear any cylinder firing
Won't start: it fires and tries to run, but when I let go of the key it quits
Won't run: I can get it to start, but no matter what I do, after "n" seconds it quits.
Won't idle: I can keep it running by [holding my foot on the gas, whatever], but if I stop doing that it eventually dies.
You say it won't crank, but I think you mean it won't fire. Or is it something else? If it won't crank, you don't care if the plugs are wet. If it won't fire, use a timing light to check that you've got spark at each plug (you can do the shade-tree method of holding a sparkplug against something grounded, but it's hard to do, dangerous, and hard on the plugs. Plus, you're going to need a $20 timing light anyway, so bite the bullet and get serious.)
Won't crank: the motor won't turn over. At all.
Won't fire: it cranks, but I don't hear any cylinder firing
Won't start: it fires and tries to run, but when I let go of the key it quits
Won't run: I can get it to start, but no matter what I do, after "n" seconds it quits.
Won't idle: I can keep it running by [holding my foot on the gas, whatever], but if I stop doing that it eventually dies.
You say it won't crank, but I think you mean it won't fire. Or is it something else? If it won't crank, you don't care if the plugs are wet. If it won't fire, use a timing light to check that you've got spark at each plug (you can do the shade-tree method of holding a sparkplug against something grounded, but it's hard to do, dangerous, and hard on the plugs. Plus, you're going to need a $20 timing light anyway, so bite the bullet and get serious.)
11-13-2012, 09:26 PM
#31
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When you turn the key to "ON," the CEL should illuminate solid. If it doesn't light at all, then yup, the prior owner disconnected it. You're going to need to fix that sooner or later, but if all you want is the codes, you're in luck! The CEL is connected to the "W" connector in the diagnostic connector. Hook a 12v test light between W and B+, turn the key to on, and count the flashes. (Radio Shack used to have an led with a resistor builtin so it worked on 12v; this may be it: http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062567)
11-15-2012, 11:38 AM
#32
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To read the diagnostic codes on your pre-OBD II pickup, you need the Special Service Tool (SST). But everyone else uses one of these: http://www.staples.com/Staples-1-Siz...product_525881
When you turn the key to "ON," the CEL should illuminate solid. If it doesn't light at all, then yup, the prior owner disconnected it. You're going to need to fix that sooner or later, but if all you want is the codes, you're in luck! The CEL is connected to the "W" connector in the diagnostic connector. Hook a 12v test light between W and B+, turn the key to on, and count the flashes. (Radio Shack used to have an led with a resistor builtin so it worked on 12v; this may be it: http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062567)
When you turn the key to "ON," the CEL should illuminate solid. If it doesn't light at all, then yup, the prior owner disconnected it. You're going to need to fix that sooner or later, but if all you want is the codes, you're in luck! The CEL is connected to the "W" connector in the diagnostic connector. Hook a 12v test light between W and B+, turn the key to on, and count the flashes. (Radio Shack used to have an led with a resistor builtin so it worked on 12v; this may be it: http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062567)
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