my 85 with bumpsteer
#1
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my 85 with bumpsteer
just finished putiing a set of yjs and crossover steering on my runner it drives and flexes fairly decent but seems to have some bumpsteer on the highway every thing seems tight and I have the steering stabilizer. Do you all think it can come from caster and shims or a drop hanger and shorter shackles will cure it or do I need stiffer springs. Will post some pics when I resize them
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I have rears up front and have just a little brake/bump steer, but in my case it's because the springs are so soft. It's not a DD and I'm used to it, so it's no big deal for me.
Yours could be due to that and/or a caster problem. Your pinion should be pointing up towards the t-case for your caster to be in the ball park. If you used longer shackles or a drop front hanger, your caster will have changed. If you used (for example) a 2" drop hanger and shackles that give 2" of lift, your caster would be pretty much stock.
Yours could be due to that and/or a caster problem. Your pinion should be pointing up towards the t-case for your caster to be in the ball park. If you used longer shackles or a drop front hanger, your caster will have changed. If you used (for example) a 2" drop hanger and shackles that give 2" of lift, your caster would be pretty much stock.
#3
Bumpsteer is caused by the distance between the drag link mounting points (pass knuckle and steering box) changing when you hit a bump and the front suspension compresses. If the pitman arm doesn't move the mounting point on the pass side (steering arm) has to. It should steer to the right when you hit a bump. Steer to the left when the susp unloads.
Nothing but a panhard (track) bar will fix it. It's not really that bad on mine and it doesn't bother me so I've never paid any attention to it. If you look at a lot of other rigs with crossover steering like older f-150/bronco's and Newer solid axle Fords like the superduties they all use a track bar to get the axle to move slightly to the passenger side as the susp compresses to keep the distance between the pitman arm and the pass steering knuckle constant.
Nothing but a panhard (track) bar will fix it. It's not really that bad on mine and it doesn't bother me so I've never paid any attention to it. If you look at a lot of other rigs with crossover steering like older f-150/bronco's and Newer solid axle Fords like the superduties they all use a track bar to get the axle to move slightly to the passenger side as the susp compresses to keep the distance between the pitman arm and the pass steering knuckle constant.
Last edited by rrmike; 07-17-2006 at 04:18 PM.
#4
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Make sure the alignment specs are good:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/4R_TechInfo.shtml#Steering
Then see if you can lower the draglink angle. I get no bumpsteer with mine:
Granted, the hydro-assist steering ram can help reduce bumpsteer, but I had no bumpsteer before adding that.
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/4R_TechInfo.shtml#Steering
Then see if you can lower the draglink angle. I get no bumpsteer with mine:
Granted, the hydro-assist steering ram can help reduce bumpsteer, but I had no bumpsteer before adding that.
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thanks this link shows pics of my setup allignment is good so Im thinking the soft springs or caster is my cause.
http://www.trail-gear.com/vbulletin/...ead.php?t=2025
http://www.trail-gear.com/vbulletin/...ead.php?t=2025
#6
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You'll need to get the caster angle checked at a shop, unless you want to try it yourself. Find an alignment shop that will just give you a quick check, you might even find some that do that for free or a nominal cost. Get the numbers and go from there. And also, what pre-load did you use on the knuckle bearings when you installed the high steer arms? Most folks normally go to the top end of the factory specs or a bit higher.
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I used my original shims for the knuckle rebuild and it came out on the high end of the specs. I assume the caster can't be changed by a shop beings it is a solid axle but they can measure it correct.In the trail gear link the pic of the front drive shaft angle I was told the front axle flange should point straight to the transfer case flange for it to be close So I was going to do a drop hanger and shorter shackles to get it close to factory spec. Also plan to work with the spings to firm them up a little. Thanks for the input also read most of the info on your site and have learned alot.
Last edited by 85 4runr; 07-26-2006 at 09:04 PM.
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#8
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Originally Posted by 85 4runr
I assume the caster can't be changed by a shop beings it is a solid axle but they can measure it correct.In the trail gear link the pic of the front drive shaft angle I was told the front axle flange should point straight to the transfer case flange for it to be close So I was going to do a drop hanger and shorter shackles to get it close to factory spec. Also plan to work with the spings to firm them up a little. Thanks for the input also read most of the info on your site and have learned alot.
You can shim the axle to change the caster:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/Shims.shtml
Or you can change shackle length
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...es.shtml#FAQ12
or front hanger height:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ringHangerDrop
or you can even cut and rotate the steering knuckles to correct both caster and pinion angles at the same time:
- http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/rotated_housing/
I have done all the above (except the rotated knuckles) and they all work.
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thanks will be working on it as money/time permits,but it is summer time and I want to enjoy it some it still dives better than a long shackled jeep I had
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