fishon1213

I recently bought a 84 sr5 and need some help with the rear window. I am missing the license plate light/key tumbler tumbler assembly. I am assuming this is the first reason nothing works. Not a complete circuit? I have five wires that I believe are supposed to go to the assembly. 1white 1green 3blue Anyone know exactly where these wires go? Is the key tumbler just electrical or is it mechanical too? I have searched on ebay and haven't had any luck finding this assembly. Any ideas would help. Wiring is my downfall.



P.S. The glass is not in the pic but I do have it.

fishon1213

OK, I used an extra battery I had and put power directly to the window motor, Yippie, up and down. I am thinking the green and white wires I have hanging are for the license plate light. The blue wires must be for the key switch. Can anyone confirm this?

fishon1213

OK, heres the dumb question of the day. Where is the rear window lock switch supposed to be located?

muddpigg

iTrader: (1)

on the armrest base is my lock out switch, well before the duals.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

The rear key switch is just an electrical switch:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...roubleshooting

Located in the plastic trim piece across the tailgate:

tj884Rdlx

here's some info from the wiring diag in the haynes manual. (take it for what it's worth)

power comes from 20a circuit breaker at kickpanel to power window relay. this c/b is manual reset with a toothpick. make sure it's reset if you have no power on blue to pin 6 of relay

relay pin 1 blue/black to motor - blue yellow returns to relay pin 2

relay pin 12 blue black to outer key switch pin 3 for up
relay pin 11 blue/white to outer key switch pin 2 for down

outer key switch pin 1 blue then blue/green to cover top switch and power window lock switch at console

this info corresponds to the 1st diag on 4crawler's link above.

good luck!

Etype R

I ran those 2 wires to a 3 way switch, which is wired directly to the battery. Its not a ideal setup and one of these days I plan to build a better relay box. But it works for now

rocketbud

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...arWindow01.gif

That link might help

fishon1213

OK, I jumpered the top cover switch and made a little progress. The green and white wires are for the license plate light which I dont have. The blue wires must be for the key switch which I don't have. I am just going to forget about those for now. After jumpering the top cover switch I got the regulator to go up with the switch in the cab. Yay!!! After the regulator was in the top position I tested the wiper functions. They all worked! I couldn't believe it. But the regulator won't go down with the switch in the cab. To get it back down I hook a battery directly to the motor. I am now thinking that my rear wiper retraction detection switch is the problem. The back door light is not on. What else would cause it to go up but not down? What exactly is supposed to make the tailgate lock pop up? I am getting there. Thanks everyone for your help.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Could be either the down switch contact or down relay is not working properly. The lock button only pops up when you pull it up manually. It should go down/lock automatically when to raise the window with the switch.

AustinTaco

I have referred back to Roger's site many times over the years for various back window issues with my 2 4runners. It's the rear window bible for 4runners.
That being said, if you think its the wiper switch that is defeating you, try this trick. Open up the wiper motor cover and you will see how the wiper motor moves an arm that goes over a pin switch that lets it know the wiper is seated. I couldn't get my wiper to seat properly, so I just permanently depressed the pin switch. I just had to remember to double check that my wiper wasn't getting caught in the window as I raised it up.
Also, my 84 doesn't have a window lock button on the console. I think that started in 85?

XtraSlow_XtraCab

Yes... the lock button going "down" is a mechanical action. As the regulator moves, an attached rotational part contacts a piece on the lock switch and pulls it downward. It also prohibits the lock switch from unlocking when the window is at any position other than down.

Don't blame the relay. Its just an inductor-operated switch soldered to a PCB with some other inductor-operated switches and resistors (ok, and a few transistors) inside of a plastic casing. Its only gonna go out if some moron decided fuses were a bad thing or it got rained on.

Blame a faulty switch. It sounds like everything checks out, but you haven't mentioned the latch-sensing switch (located on the driverside latch of the tailgate). If the wiper is up, you're covered. Its worth looking into, but you're gonna find out in a bout 2 seconds. Its such a sloppy design that the window will still go down even if the blade is resting on the glass. It has to practically be at a 15 degree angle before the window functions are cut.

Regardless of things functioning or not, invest in a 5 dollar can of "Electrical Contact Cleaner". Remove all switches (push-button or mechanically operated) and flood those things with some of that spray. Wait 15 minutes of drying time in the sun and then plug them all back in. That stuff is magic.

If that doesn't work, PM me or post up on your results. Also, I thought you might want this. Its out of a field service manual. You can dowload a .PDF copy of it via my link in my signature. Have fun! And don't worry... it feels good once it all works.