My first yota and some weber carb swap questions
09-03-2008, 04:34 PM
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My first yota and some weber carb swap questions
First, let me introduce myself. My name is Josh, I live in Knoxville, Tennessee, and go to UT College of Vet. Med. I have a 1986 Chevy K10 on 39.5's with ton axles and lockers, winch, etc for my wheelin truck and a 1998 Jeep Cherokee for my late model daily driver. The truck gets like 8-10mpg and the jeep gets high teens at best.
So... this past weekend I bought a 1977 Toyota 2wd Pick-up for $150 to be my good gas mileage daily driver/ beater! Awesome and fun little truck. Was originally my wife's grandfather's truck back in 77, has been sitting off and on for the better part of the last decade (4 years since she was last driven). All it took was some good gas and some new tires and I drove it 200 miles to Knoxville. She has some rust issues (painted her this past Saturday with my dad's paint gun and some sherwin williams metal enamel), could use a master cylinder (swapping this weekend), and definitely has some carb issues with the factory Aisan (I bought a weber 32/36 kit). The carb is where my questions lie:
The weber kit has an egr plate/pcv valve adapter. However, it doesn't seem that it will work on my 77 20R. I would like to eliminate as much emissions equipment as possible for simplicity (I don't have inspections where I live). Rust has eliminated the "air pump to exhaust manifold" tube for me already.
The factory pcv hook-up is on the carb adapter plate (which will be leaving with the aisan carb). Where do I route the PCV now since the EGR adapter from the kit is not an option?
The factory EGR goes into another plate under the carb (also leaving with the Aisan) so I need to eliminate it also. How? I'd like to avoid buying plates if possible. Can I just cap the vacuum line to the EGR valve and crimp the egr tube coming out of it to the carb?
Pics/advice for a weber on a 1977 20R would be very helpful if possible. From what I understand all I need to keep is the single vacuum line from the distributor to the single vac inlet on the weber and the charcoal canister?
Oh yeah, here are some specs and some pics of the new addition to my driveway family:
1977 Toyota Standard bed pick-up
20R
2wd
4 speed manual
75,300 actual miles on the odometer
Absolutely bone stock, right down to the AM radio.
So... this past weekend I bought a 1977 Toyota 2wd Pick-up for $150 to be my good gas mileage daily driver/ beater! Awesome and fun little truck. Was originally my wife's grandfather's truck back in 77, has been sitting off and on for the better part of the last decade (4 years since she was last driven). All it took was some good gas and some new tires and I drove it 200 miles to Knoxville. She has some rust issues (painted her this past Saturday with my dad's paint gun and some sherwin williams metal enamel), could use a master cylinder (swapping this weekend), and definitely has some carb issues with the factory Aisan (I bought a weber 32/36 kit). The carb is where my questions lie:
The weber kit has an egr plate/pcv valve adapter. However, it doesn't seem that it will work on my 77 20R. I would like to eliminate as much emissions equipment as possible for simplicity (I don't have inspections where I live). Rust has eliminated the "air pump to exhaust manifold" tube for me already.
The factory pcv hook-up is on the carb adapter plate (which will be leaving with the aisan carb). Where do I route the PCV now since the EGR adapter from the kit is not an option?
The factory EGR goes into another plate under the carb (also leaving with the Aisan) so I need to eliminate it also. How? I'd like to avoid buying plates if possible. Can I just cap the vacuum line to the EGR valve and crimp the egr tube coming out of it to the carb?
Pics/advice for a weber on a 1977 20R would be very helpful if possible. From what I understand all I need to keep is the single vacuum line from the distributor to the single vac inlet on the weber and the charcoal canister?
Oh yeah, here are some specs and some pics of the new addition to my driveway family:
1977 Toyota Standard bed pick-up
20R
2wd
4 speed manual
75,300 actual miles on the odometer
Absolutely bone stock, right down to the AM radio.
Last edited by Josh86k10; 09-03-2008 at 04:40 PM.
09-05-2008, 06:19 PM
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Okay, I think I have everything figured out except one thing.
I'm routing the PCV to the old vacuum manifold thing that sticks out just under the carb toward the passenger side fender (retapping the 1/8 BSPT for the 3 prong vacuum port to 1/8 NPT and installing the weber barb fitting).
Just capping the vacuum port and tube on the EGR for the time being until I can make a block off plate.
But....New discovery (I'm learning as I go)
Is it okay to just ditch the hollow plate under the carb that the coolant flows through (some sort of warming/cooling device)? I don't think my hardware is long enough to include it under the 2 Weber plates. The weber base plate will just cover up the coolant passage holes. Will this be okay? I don't want to create any hot spots.
Thanks in advance.
I'm routing the PCV to the old vacuum manifold thing that sticks out just under the carb toward the passenger side fender (retapping the 1/8 BSPT for the 3 prong vacuum port to 1/8 NPT and installing the weber barb fitting).
Just capping the vacuum port and tube on the EGR for the time being until I can make a block off plate.
But....New discovery (I'm learning as I go)
Is it okay to just ditch the hollow plate under the carb that the coolant flows through (some sort of warming/cooling device)? I don't think my hardware is long enough to include it under the 2 Weber plates. The weber base plate will just cover up the coolant passage holes. Will this be okay? I don't want to create any hot spots.
Thanks in advance.
09-05-2008, 06:54 PM
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I've used that black spacer(if thats what your talking about) and not used it..
Couldn't ever tell if it was better or not. And your hardware is not long enough if you have the two piece plates. I run a single adapter about 3" tall.
That PCV idea you have is perfect, you don't want to block this off.
Nice cherry truck BTW
Couldn't ever tell if it was better or not. And your hardware is not long enough if you have the two piece plates. I run a single adapter about 3" tall.
That PCV idea you have is perfect, you don't want to block this off.
Nice cherry truck BTW
09-05-2008, 07:07 PM
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I'm not sure what color it is/should be, but it's under a black adapter with the pcv port on it (it's the closest spacer to the manifold). I've never seen one before. There are two 1/4" coolant passages that flow into it and it is hollow to allow coolant to circulate under the carb base plate. Without it the weber plates will just block these coolant passages. I doubt they're terribly important to the rest of the cooling system, but I wanted to ask the experts. Is it safe to assume they're unimportant?
And thanks, I'm having a blast getting her back to daily driver status after 4 years in the weeds. The last time she was driven regularly was 1999.
And thanks, I'm having a blast getting her back to daily driver status after 4 years in the weeds. The last time she was driven regularly was 1999.
Last edited by Josh86k10; 09-05-2008 at 07:17 PM.
09-05-2008, 07:59 PM
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They have one peice adapters now too alot better. Got mine from webercarbs direct I belive since the old style had problems staying toghter. btw anyone rebuild there carbs the one I has a leak on the throttle rod. sorry for the tread hijack/
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09-05-2008, 08:31 PM
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In my opinion once a weber "needs rebuilt" it's junk.
I got a pile of them. but still pay 3-500 for them. I've tried the rebuild thing, and it was still junk. Maybe i'm just not a carb guy. I dunno
to the OP
I'd ditch that thing. If you really want to keep it then get one of the one piece adapters
I got a pile of them. but still pay 3-500 for them. I've tried the rebuild thing, and it was still junk. Maybe i'm just not a carb guy. I dunno
to the OP
I'd ditch that thing. If you really want to keep it then get one of the one piece adapters
09-06-2008, 03:05 PM
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okay, the corner snapped off of the bottom adapter plate on installation at a whopping 10 ft-lbs 
. The instructions said to torque to 12 ft-lbs, so I went and bought a tiny torque wrench just for this. Just to be sure I went with 10......
Anyway, now I need to find a new adapter. Since I need a new one anyway, I'd like to get a one piece adapter. Where is the best place to find one? I found one that even has the pcv barb on it online, but the place (WPS Racing) has a bad reputation so I'd like to avoid them. CP Automotive made the adapter, but they don't have a website.
. The instructions said to torque to 12 ft-lbs, so I went and bought a tiny torque wrench just for this. Just to be sure I went with 10......Anyway, now I need to find a new adapter. Since I need a new one anyway, I'd like to get a one piece adapter. Where is the best place to find one? I found one that even has the pcv barb on it online, but the place (WPS Racing) has a bad reputation so I'd like to avoid them. CP Automotive made the adapter, but they don't have a website.
09-13-2008, 05:37 PM
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Follow up:
Got the trans dapt adapter from Summit Racing for $40 plus shipping - I needed it quick (p/n 2120). Would probably work with the cooling plate, but only had a few thousandths of coverage past the coolant passage so it made me nervous. Ended up ditching the plate (sprayed some compressed air in one of the holes and coolant shot out of the other one, so I assume it is a redundant coolant passage). Truck runs great now... night and day. Sounds like a bumble bee when the secondary opens up.
Got the trans dapt adapter from Summit Racing for $40 plus shipping - I needed it quick (p/n 2120). Would probably work with the cooling plate, but only had a few thousandths of coverage past the coolant passage so it made me nervous. Ended up ditching the plate (sprayed some compressed air in one of the holes and coolant shot out of the other one, so I assume it is a redundant coolant passage). Truck runs great now... night and day. Sounds like a bumble bee when the secondary opens up.
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