what do i need to clear 35s on my 3rd gen
#1
what do i need to clear 35s on my 3rd gen
ok i have done allot of reading but i need to clarify things. i want to run 35s with ifs. so after a 2" BL what will i nead.
if i do the tudra swap will i be able to clear them and who makes good rear cloils?
thanks, josh
if i do the tudra swap will i be able to clear them and who makes good rear cloils?
thanks, josh
Last edited by 86toyotakid; Oct 16, 2006 at 04:07 PM.
#2
Contributing Member
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,071
Likes: 0
From: raleigh, nc for school chapel hill, nc for home
I assume you mean using tundra coils for the front lift.....even with the tundra coils, you need some spacers on top of that. Andy (Bamachem) sells these for $40 a pair IIRC.
I Would use LC coils in the rear, they will give you more lift than the Tundra coils and spacers up front, but i like the raked look.
I would reccomend just buying the kit from Sonoran steel, as it has everything you'll need.
http://www.sonoransteel.com/store_co..._liftkits.html
I Would use LC coils in the rear, they will give you more lift than the Tundra coils and spacers up front, but i like the raked look.
I would reccomend just buying the kit from Sonoran steel, as it has everything you'll need.
http://www.sonoransteel.com/store_co..._liftkits.html
#4
Fitting 35's on a 3rd gen without going sky-high... https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/fitting-35s-3rd-gen-without-going-sky-high-73003/
#6
Yup, but, notice he is the only one whos done that (besides Steve). Lots of work and time, but, comes out pretty much the best setup, since your center of gravity is nice and low for the IFS.
I'd recommend a 2" body lift and 2" suspension lift with some minor trimming along rear of the fenders.
I'd recommend a 2" body lift and 2" suspension lift with some minor trimming along rear of the fenders.
Trending Topics
#8
I plan on doing almost exactly what the TLT guy did on his '96 to my '98. Probably about a month or so before I get to hat project though, I still have to fix it from my wreck and do my engine swap. Then its suspension and tire time.
#11
To be honest unless I totally missed something I cant clear 35's well maybe on the road but not offroad had a hard enough time with 33.9's Iterco SSR's "285/75/16" I have the Sonoran lift plus an extra spacer in the front 1/2" making 1" total on top of the Tundra coils and 35's arent happening,as a result of the extra spacer makes me in need of limit straps too! If you run the SS lift and get a body lift you might stand a chance, whats the hard on about the 35's anyway? YOu could always try and modiy a Fabtech 6" kit for the tacoma and use lift springs for a tundra.... hope it helps
4RUNNER ON the 285 or 33.9 SSR's

4RUNNER ON the 285 or 33.9 SSR's

I assume you mean using tundra coils for the front lift.....even with the tundra coils, you need some spacers on top of that. Andy (Bamachem) sells these for $40 a pair IIRC.
I Would use LC coils in the rear, they will give you more lift than the Tundra coils and spacers up front, but i like the raked look.
I would reccomend just buying the kit from Sonoran steel, as it has everything you'll need.
http://www.sonoransteel.com/store_co..._liftkits.html
I Would use LC coils in the rear, they will give you more lift than the Tundra coils and spacers up front, but i like the raked look.
I would reccomend just buying the kit from Sonoran steel, as it has everything you'll need.
http://www.sonoransteel.com/store_co..._liftkits.html
#12
what do i need to clear 35s on my 3rd gen
2" suspension lift (more in the rear would be better)
1" body lift (minimum)
8"-wide wheels w/ at least 4.5" or less backspacing
shaved upper A-arms
power steering fluid cooler
poly steering rack bushings
transmission cooler
regear to 4.88's or 5.29's
tundra calipers, pads, and rotors to stop the additional rotational weight
cut and welded/patched firewall at the rear of the front fenders for clearance
cut the rear of the front fenders
cut the stock or aftermarket front bumper at the wheel well
remove all mud flaps, running boards, etc.
remove all bolts from the rear of the wheel well (rear bumper/flab bolt)
you should also consider steel front and rear bumpers, sliders, & front/rear lockers, and a winch to take full advantage of the additional ground clearance. if you don't already need these, then you should ask yourself if you really NEED 35's.
Last edited by bamachem; Nov 2, 2006 at 06:04 AM.
#13
You always say it best! I was trying to be nice about saying just 3 months salary you too can clear 35's Marry the girl or marry the truck that is th question.
Aaron
Aaron
a fat bank account, and as a minimum (to do it right):
2" suspension lift (more in the rear would be better)
1" body lift (minimum)
8"-wide wheels w/ at least 4.5" or less backspacing
shaved upper A-arms
power steering fluid cooler
poly steering rack bushings
transmission cooler
regear to 4.88's or 5.29's
tundra calipers, pads, and rotors to stop the additional rotational weight
cut and welded/patched firewall at the rear of the front fenders for clearance
cut the rear of the front fenders
cut the stock or aftermarket front bumper at the wheel well
remove all mud flaps, running boards, etc.
remove all bolts from the rear of the wheel well (rear bumper/flab bolt)
you should also consider steel front and rear bumpers, sliders, & front/rear lockers, and a winch to take full advantage of the additional ground clearance. if you don't already need these, then you should ask yourself if you really NEED 35's.
2" suspension lift (more in the rear would be better)
1" body lift (minimum)
8"-wide wheels w/ at least 4.5" or less backspacing
shaved upper A-arms
power steering fluid cooler
poly steering rack bushings
transmission cooler
regear to 4.88's or 5.29's
tundra calipers, pads, and rotors to stop the additional rotational weight
cut and welded/patched firewall at the rear of the front fenders for clearance
cut the rear of the front fenders
cut the stock or aftermarket front bumper at the wheel well
remove all mud flaps, running boards, etc.
remove all bolts from the rear of the wheel well (rear bumper/flab bolt)
you should also consider steel front and rear bumpers, sliders, & front/rear lockers, and a winch to take full advantage of the additional ground clearance. if you don't already need these, then you should ask yourself if you really NEED 35's.
#14
Portraying what Sean did as "fender trimming" is a little shortsided. He took a chunk out of the firewall. That is pretty serious.
If you need 35's, you must have seen www.sonoransteel.com or the TLT write up. Either do that, or don't. Nothing is particularly exotic, it is just one of those modifications that hurts resale.
If you need 35's, you must have seen www.sonoransteel.com or the TLT write up. Either do that, or don't. Nothing is particularly exotic, it is just one of those modifications that hurts resale.
#15
a fat bank account, and as a minimum (to do it right):
2" suspension lift (more in the rear would be better)
1" body lift (minimum)
8"-wide wheels w/ at least 4.5" or less backspacing
shaved upper A-arms
power steering fluid cooler
poly steering rack bushings
transmission cooler
regear to 4.88's or 5.29's
tundra calipers, pads, and rotors to stop the additional rotational weight
cut and welded/patched firewall at the rear of the front fenders for clearance
cut the rear of the front fenders
cut the stock or aftermarket front bumper at the wheel well
remove all mud flaps, running boards, etc.
remove all bolts from the rear of the wheel well (rear bumper/flab bolt)
you should also consider steel front and rear bumpers, sliders, & front/rear lockers, and a winch to take full advantage of the additional ground clearance. if you don't already need these, then you should ask yourself if you really NEED 35's.
2" suspension lift (more in the rear would be better)
1" body lift (minimum)
8"-wide wheels w/ at least 4.5" or less backspacing
shaved upper A-arms
power steering fluid cooler
poly steering rack bushings
transmission cooler
regear to 4.88's or 5.29's
tundra calipers, pads, and rotors to stop the additional rotational weight
cut and welded/patched firewall at the rear of the front fenders for clearance
cut the rear of the front fenders
cut the stock or aftermarket front bumper at the wheel well
remove all mud flaps, running boards, etc.
remove all bolts from the rear of the wheel well (rear bumper/flab bolt)
you should also consider steel front and rear bumpers, sliders, & front/rear lockers, and a winch to take full advantage of the additional ground clearance. if you don't already need these, then you should ask yourself if you really NEED 35's.
^^^ what he said. most importantly FAT BANK ACCOUNT
it will cost alot to do it right. by the looks of your sig, youve got the 4banger 5sp, so im guessing 4.10's. youre probably going to need to regear to 4.88 or 5.29's and that in itself will cost almost much as the 35's im willing to bet. maybe go up to a 33" as most here do. it works well with minimal fuss. are your 31's not doing the job for you? what suspension are you currently running?
but of course..nothing beats the extra ground clearance & better approach angle. i keep going back n forth with whether should do this..and its killing me
JGM...whaddya want for your arms if OP doesnt want em?
#16
Lemme check to see if I still have them. Pretty sure I do amidst 3rd gen spindles, lower a-arms, coil springs, and rack & pinions. I don't use any of this stuff, but I can't through it away, either.
I was thinking $175 negotiable. Not including shipping. I may have someone else that is interested.
Sorry for the highjack.
I was thinking $175 negotiable. Not including shipping. I may have someone else that is interested.
Sorry for the highjack.
#17
Someone make a price list of how much you actually think this would cost to do the TLT considering you do all the work yourself. I don't think it would be all that bad if you don't include wheels and tires but I don't know.


