what do i need to clear 35s on my 3rd gen
Nov 2, 2006 | 12:08 PM
#21
Contributing Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 4,749
Likes: 0
From: Santa Clarita, California
a fat bank account, and as a minimum (to do it right):
2" suspension lift (more in the rear would be better)
1" body lift (minimum)
8"-wide wheels w/ at least 4.5" or less backspacing
shaved upper A-arms
power steering fluid cooler
poly steering rack bushings
transmission cooler
regear to 4.88's or 5.29's
tundra calipers, pads, and rotors to stop the additional rotational weight
cut and welded/patched firewall at the rear of the front fenders for clearance
cut the rear of the front fenders
cut the stock or aftermarket front bumper at the wheel well
remove all mud flaps, running boards, etc.
remove all bolts from the rear of the wheel well (rear bumper/flab bolt)
you should also consider steel front and rear bumpers, sliders, & front/rear lockers, and a winch to take full advantage of the additional ground clearance. if you don't already need these, then you should ask yourself if you really NEED 35's.
2" suspension lift (more in the rear would be better)
1" body lift (minimum)
8"-wide wheels w/ at least 4.5" or less backspacing
shaved upper A-arms
power steering fluid cooler
poly steering rack bushings
transmission cooler
regear to 4.88's or 5.29's
tundra calipers, pads, and rotors to stop the additional rotational weight
cut and welded/patched firewall at the rear of the front fenders for clearance
cut the rear of the front fenders
cut the stock or aftermarket front bumper at the wheel well
remove all mud flaps, running boards, etc.
remove all bolts from the rear of the wheel well (rear bumper/flab bolt)
you should also consider steel front and rear bumpers, sliders, & front/rear lockers, and a winch to take full advantage of the additional ground clearance. if you don't already need these, then you should ask yourself if you really NEED 35's.
Good List.
Nov 2, 2006 | 12:32 PM
#22
Contributing Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,150
Likes: 0
From: Fayetteville, AR
a fat bank account, and as a minimum (to do it right):
2" suspension lift (more in the rear would be better)
1" body lift (minimum)
8"-wide wheels w/ at least 4.5" or less backspacing
shaved upper A-arms
power steering fluid cooler
poly steering rack bushings
transmission cooler
regear to 4.88's or 5.29's
tundra calipers, pads, and rotors to stop the additional rotational weight
cut and welded/patched firewall at the rear of the front fenders for clearance
cut the rear of the front fenders
cut the stock or aftermarket front bumper at the wheel well
remove all mud flaps, running boards, etc.
remove all bolts from the rear of the wheel well (rear bumper/flab bolt)
you should also consider steel front and rear bumpers, sliders, & front/rear lockers, and a winch to take full advantage of the additional ground clearance. if you don't already need these, then you should ask yourself if you really NEED 35's.
2" suspension lift (more in the rear would be better)
1" body lift (minimum)
8"-wide wheels w/ at least 4.5" or less backspacing
shaved upper A-arms
power steering fluid cooler
poly steering rack bushings
transmission cooler
regear to 4.88's or 5.29's
tundra calipers, pads, and rotors to stop the additional rotational weight
cut and welded/patched firewall at the rear of the front fenders for clearance
cut the rear of the front fenders
cut the stock or aftermarket front bumper at the wheel well
remove all mud flaps, running boards, etc.
remove all bolts from the rear of the wheel well (rear bumper/flab bolt)
you should also consider steel front and rear bumpers, sliders, & front/rear lockers, and a winch to take full advantage of the additional ground clearance. if you don't already need these, then you should ask yourself if you really NEED 35's.
Nov 2, 2006 | 04:49 PM
#24
Contributing Member
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,358
Likes: 0
From: Colorado
The body lift will decrease the amount of trimming you will have to do when compared to what TLT did. I have a 1.5" BL with almost everything bamachem listed and still rub a bit up front at full stuff.
Nov 2, 2006 | 05:03 PM
#25
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,427
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From: vansterdam BC.
Jan 28, 2008 | 02:20 PM
#26
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
you will definitely need 3 and 3. go with the roger brown 4crawler 3" body and maybe a downey or revtek for the rear suspension. i also did the tundra swap but you will also need coil spacers. this setup will give you enough clearance for a mall crawler.
for trail riding, you're gonna have to put a little more elbow grease into it. not a one day project. i have done a couple of inches of trimming to both front and rear fenders, and some major cutting in the wheel well so i don't stuff it, but carefull enough to where i don't shoot stuff up near the engine. sorry i don't have exactly what i did, but thats a start. and no pictures of the trimming yet. but it IS possible.
for trail riding, you're gonna have to put a little more elbow grease into it. not a one day project. i have done a couple of inches of trimming to both front and rear fenders, and some major cutting in the wheel well so i don't stuff it, but carefull enough to where i don't shoot stuff up near the engine. sorry i don't have exactly what i did, but thats a start. and no pictures of the trimming yet. but it IS possible.
Jan 28, 2008 | 02:44 PM
#28
Contributing Member
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,358
Likes: 0
From: Colorado
Yep and with incorrect info included.
cmarch97runner: since this thread is at the top now, you can do the 315s with less than the 3" suspension and 3" body lift you used...there are several on this board that are proof of this...me included. And I don't "mall crawl".
Don't assume that the the way you came up with is the only way to do it.
cmarch97runner: since this thread is at the top now, you can do the 315s with less than the 3" suspension and 3" body lift you used...there are several on this board that are proof of this...me included. And I don't "mall crawl".
Don't assume that the the way you came up with is the only way to do it.
Last edited by Bighead; Jan 28, 2008 at 02:49 PM.
Jan 28, 2008 | 05:13 PM
#31
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,427
Likes: 0
From: vansterdam BC.
...you were doin somethin wrong then. im only running 2.75" suspension lift, and 1.5" body lift, and 1.5" front wheel spacers to clear my 315's.
tall is only good for mall crawlin...nothing else.
tall is only good for mall crawlin...nothing else.
Jan 28, 2008 | 06:04 PM
#32
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
of course my rims are 16x10. hey, i'm definitely not trying to be a know it all. i have 6" and without cutting, i got enough flex to maybe clear a curb. but i haven't seen everything.
and i'm going for a 97. not all 3rd gens.
don't give me too much ish. i'm still trying to learn here too.
and i'm going for a 97. not all 3rd gens.
don't give me too much ish. i'm still trying to learn here too.
Feb 19, 2008 | 08:35 PM
#37
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 453
Likes: 0
From: Woodinville, Washington
im running stock suspension with 30/9.50/15 bfg muds. When im fully flexed out with the wheels turned i have about an inch or so before i rub. i dunno exactly but the math but thats something to go off.
Feb 19, 2008 | 08:52 PM
#38
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 586
Likes: 0
From: Lake Stevens, Washington
I'm running 2.75 OME lift up front with LC coils OME out the rear under a 2in RB BL and I still rub at full crank on the rear of my fenders. I've started grinding down my UCA's and trimming towards the firewall. Eventually, I'll do most of the other mods before wheeing it. I don't mall crawl, but I wanna make sure i do it right. Here's the trimming I've done, etc
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Anyone know a good place for Tranny and PS coolers??
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[/IMG]Anyone know a good place for Tranny and PS coolers??
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