Is it worth saying your all Toyota?

I want to go full width on my 92 pick-up. There are 2 options I can see (FJ80 or D60). I want to still be able to drive this truck around town and on the street.

Option 1: FJ80 front and rear axles. I’ve found a deal ($1100 for the pair) on a pair of e-locking FJ80 axles. There are 2 problems with 80 axles.
1. It’ll cost around $700.00 to get high-steer on the 80.
2. The rear 80 axle is offset a few inches to the right so my driveshaft will be kind of odd.

Option 2: Dana 60. I might have found a deal on a pair of military Dana 60/14 Bolt’s with Detroit lockers. The only problems I see are that I can’t say its all yota and they weight a lot, but I get to beat the hell out of the truck.

I just figured I’d post this up for discussion to give you guys something to write about.

 

Nothing cheap or easy with LC parts.

I'd do D60/14.

 

This is Off Topic how?

The Cruiser stuff will be cheaper to pimp, but the domestic stuff will be potentially stronger when pimped.

It is worth staying Toyota on most stuff, engine, drivetrain, etc. Axles are a grey area and I see no real point.

 

The selectables would be very trick, making street driving somewhat less painful... how much are the 14bolt/D60? How much total if you did ARBs in the 14bolt/D60?

 

Can the rear FJ80 axle work with the offset? If it can be made to work I think the 80 axles are what I want.

 

I'd say you should get under your truck and look at your d-shaft now, and then imagine it shifted a few inches to the right (how many inches from center should be measured on the axle). Be on the lookout for gas tank rubbage while flexed, things like that.

 

It won't work with the offset.

You would need xcase from another landcruiser, not worth the trouble.

It would be stronger to go with something like a 60. Build it tough, and your truck won't be able to break it.

 

The domestic choice is standard and stout. Steering is stupid easy, same with brakes, lockers, gears, etc.

If you are linking it, then it is a toss up.

If you are leaving it, then kiss off steering. I have actually laid my hands on two sets of prototype high steer arms for an 80. I have not, in the last 5 years, actually seen anyone get product for an 80 front from OTT. Consider I have been working at a place that builds 80's.

Have we considered width?

I had the choice to build any custom Toyota based front end I could for my runner. I need something to be the biggest and strongest with a chance to run 40's. Do you know what I run? Mini stuff. HP diff with 30 splines. The pain of trying to use 80 stuff versus the size gain is really a wash.

 

I don't think 80 axles are worth screwing with at all, unless you are building a land cruiser.

Too much hassle to make the front work. Whack it and put on leaves for a mini, easy. 80, not so much.

Cost wise, building mini stuff to be strong is compareable to building domestic, depends on what you've got around. Stock mini stuff is not strong at all. Stock domestic is stronger, but still not that strong.

I ask what width as well.

 

60/14 or diamonds with mini stuff

 

Thanks, but the gas tank is not really a problem. What I was asking is, can a driveshaft be made to work with the offset?

My GF came up with a good plan. I have a mini axle sitting at home so I’m just going to use mini stuff for now and wait on a good deal for a FJ80 axle (my $1100 deal didn’t work out – they’re not e-locker axles) I think a mini axle can handle 38’s without any problems (obviously with upgrades).

FYI - OTT will still make arms for 80’s. It'll just cost you.

 

FYI, I will believe it when you have them.

1100 for cruiser axles open?

How much is the domestic set up? If it is close, the choice is easy.

 

I wasn't trying to be a smart a$$. I talked to OTT on the phone yesterday and he said that he'd make a pair and mill the knuckles if I needed it.

 

And I am not either.

I just have not actually heard anyone getting them. People usually investigate, educate and pick a different route or try to place an order but can't make it happen.

 

parts are really cheap and easy to get for the 60 and 14 bolt, my rear 14 bolt came from a van, 70" wms really and is a really simple axle, even though theyre heavy that weight is toward the bottom, if ur going the fj80 route let us know if those military axles are still available

 

Unless you are running 40s plus 60/14 is not worth it. You will have clearance issues with the running that large of diffs. 9" is where it's at if you want clearance and strength. If you don't want diamonds I know a company in Chattanooga that can build you a 9/60.

Also AxleIke keep trying.. I know two people running offset 80 rears without a problem w/o LC transfercase.

Talk to Jack(Mad African) on TTORA as he's running 80 rear axle in his comp buggy with stock tacoma drivetrain.

 

There's a guy that was trying to do a Tacoma SAS with an 80 on pirate and OTT told him sorry but not making them anymore. I don't know why they told you diffenrent but I'd have them in hand before I shelled out for the axle. Also I wouldn't put a 14 out back unless you are going to run huge tires. They are rock anchors bad.

Mini axles with longfield axles and hub gears will handle 38's all day long.

So I guess it boils down to what size tires you want to run. If you want 44's then go ahead with the 1 tons. I like my ground clearance with mini's. With 38's I haven't run into many places I get hung up where people with bigger axles can make it. Even with bigger tires.

 

I'm running FZJ's......steering can be complex

 

Greg, I'm thinking 60/14-the 80 axles would definitely be cool and if it was a street rig part time then I would go that route, but for a wheeler only go for the 60/14.

 

Friend running 44's on a mini-based Diamond front.



Another friend, 40's and a heavy foot on stock mini housing with 30 spline.



The difference on these trucks, the width of the Diamond lets him turn and stuff, otherwise at 40" the tires get into the leaves and everything else. These are trucks that don't have too much "everything else".

Locker options on the 80?

Find a late 70's/early 80's one ton domestic. Buy it for 2k, sell the engine for 500, sell the scrap for 200 and grin for your usable new axles.