Ok Gang, I have 87 Langcruiser coils that are way too soft. When I climb big slabs they compress too much and don't allow for much traction up front. Then I am going down hill they open up WAY too much and creat tippy isues see 10 new things I learned in Moab for my roll. (I did get a baby winch in the reaer to help with that now but I'd rather have stiffer coils)

So the question is can I find stiffer coils or should I move to leafs? I do have to replace my front all pro leafs (they suck) so I just wanted to check in and see if any of you have had similar issues and what have you done?

Thanks guys! -Molly

 

how much lift do you want from them? You could build a home made spring dyno, find out the spring rate and up that, maybe get a custom set made by eibach or someone.

 

No more lift. I wanted to save my killer articulation but I don't think that's gonna happen...

 

MOst of us that wants to keep coils in the rear after SAS goes with OME860. It's a little higher than what you have.
I've replaced the rear links with Allpro ones. I've also replace the rear d-shaft to double carden joint.

http://home.earthlink.net/~audiorat1.../rearsusp1.jpg

do you still have the pah hard bar? I cant' see it in the pic.

 

Yeah, she's still got the panhard. It's that black line running along the axle length.

 

I'm a little hesistant about AllPro. I have NOT been impressed with my front leafs from them. I wail on my rig, and I mean wail on it. They don't call her the tippy bi@tch for nothing. So is that what you would really recomend?

 

If I remember the all pro rear coils aren't made by them, they're just a reseller. I think they are OME lift coils for a FJ80.

 

What kind of height do you need?

I put stock 100 series cruiser coils in the rear of a 91 with a bracket lift up front. It has a perfect rake and balanced rear. 100 coils are thicker wire with more wraps and feel much more stable on road. We have not wheeled the truck yet.

If they are not tall enough, an OME 865 should be a little taller still, same height coil side to side and a little stiffer.

Short of that, you know a Currie type sway bar is the real solution, but I hate throwing that at a rig with a panhard rod.

The coils AP was selling IIRC, were just OME 860's which is a medium weight 2.5" lift coil.

I have front leaves and rear links. The truck is not together yet, but I encourage links in the rear if you have the know how or the bucks. Leaves just get eaten up in long, soft, spring over applications.

 

I say replace the front springs (which you know are bad) first and see how the truck is balanced then. Also, when the lift was added, were new/longer trailing links made? If not, wouldn't the axle be a bit farther forward than normal, and the spring be kinda slanted instead of vertical?

If you end up needing different springs in the back after that, I would look at leafs. Being that you also think you could benefit from a slightly longer wheelbase sometimes, you could have the perches set up to give you a few more inches (you always seem to be asking for a few more inches - what's up with that?) of wheelbase, increasing your departure angle and getting more of the weight of the spare, tools, etc between the axles instead of off the back - which will help the tippiness and wheelstanding more than anything IMHO.

Just my $0.02

 

If you already have a suck down winch, I would think it time to either leave, which I hate to see, or link with a moved tank.

4-Link with a swaybar will drive and wheel better than what you have and still be predectable on road.

How about capturing the coils, I associate a tippy feeling with unloaded coils/coilovers.

 

Yes. I only got the links from them. I bought the coils from OME seperately. I also like the idea of lifting the pan hard bar up instead of droping it. I bent it once already when I had lower lift.
Nexting you'll be complaining about the d-shaft hitting the gas tank....

 

Sorry guys, was offline for a week... Ok good feedback. Uh yeah already had that happen - the guys who did the work on tippy uh moved it. They put it back, when I did a good articulation on the crack and got the *thump thump* (I knew right away what that was).

Ok yeah the suck down winch is cool but, yeah I got your point Flyingstein.

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Thanks for all your input on this guys. Very helpful and yeah I'll always take a few more inches (tc) Give *ME* an inch and I take a MILE!