IFS axle shaft
#1
My restoration project has hit a snag. I discovered that the left axle shaft on the front IFS is pitted around where the inner seal rides. As a result, it's leaking oil into the axle tube extension and out the outer dust seal. :pat:
So now I'm looking for a replacement axle shaft. I would really like to avoid going to the dealer and getting ass raped. Is there another source for these, or does someone have a used shaft that is still in good condition (no pitting please).
88 4rnr,
2.4L,
auto,
1.1" splines
So now I'm looking for a replacement axle shaft. I would really like to avoid going to the dealer and getting ass raped. Is there another source for these, or does someone have a used shaft that is still in good condition (no pitting please).
88 4rnr,
2.4L,
auto,
1.1" splines
#2
Registered User
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 3,291
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From: 100 miles offshore as much as possible, & Springfield Oregon USA
Carefull with the language, but since it was in the same sentence with 'dealer' I understand completely...
I paid $66 each for complete assemblies ready to install, lifetime warranty from Carquest.
I paid $66 each for complete assemblies ready to install, lifetime warranty from Carquest.
#6
Registered User
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 3,291
Likes: 0
From: 100 miles offshore as much as possible, & Springfield Oregon USA
You mean the side shaft? (yellow in this diagram)
Do you have ADD or no?
Someone doing SAS should have one laying around. Check over in the Classifeds.
Do you have ADD or no?
Someone doing SAS should have one laying around. Check over in the Classifeds.
#7
Yes, I mean the side shaft. The FSM calls it the 'side gear shaft'. I always knew it as the stub shaft.
The problem I've run into is that the previous owner never used the 4 wheel drive mode, so the oil and grease didn't get splashed on the parts inside the diff. As a result, condensation which formed inside the diff has caused rust pitting on the surface where the oil seal rides which is causing it to leak.
The dealer wants $320 for a new shaft. Not going to happen. What I'm doing now is I'm going to chuck the shaft up in my lathe and polish the seal surface to see if I can get it smooth enough to seal properly again.
As a fallback position, I'm hoping that someone who's done an SAS will have an old shaft laying around they might want to get rid of.
The problem I've run into is that the previous owner never used the 4 wheel drive mode, so the oil and grease didn't get splashed on the parts inside the diff. As a result, condensation which formed inside the diff has caused rust pitting on the surface where the oil seal rides which is causing it to leak.
The dealer wants $320 for a new shaft. Not going to happen. What I'm doing now is I'm going to chuck the shaft up in my lathe and polish the seal surface to see if I can get it smooth enough to seal properly again.
As a fallback position, I'm hoping that someone who's done an SAS will have an old shaft laying around they might want to get rid of.
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#10
If it's anything like the wheel bearings on the rear axle, you're going to need a good bearing splitter and a press of at least 15 tons.
The setup is nearly the same as the rear axle. To change it, you just need to remove the snap ring and place the bearing splitter under the bearing and press like crazy. You're probably going to destroy the dust shield in the process. So when you replace the bearing, be sure to use a new dust shield and a new snap ring. The new bearing will need to be pressed on with a suitable spacer underneath to support it while pressing. Don't use the outer race as a press surface when installing.
The setup is nearly the same as the rear axle. To change it, you just need to remove the snap ring and place the bearing splitter under the bearing and press like crazy. You're probably going to destroy the dust shield in the process. So when you replace the bearing, be sure to use a new dust shield and a new snap ring. The new bearing will need to be pressed on with a suitable spacer underneath to support it while pressing. Don't use the outer race as a press surface when installing.
#12
That's what I'm going to try this weekend. I have some JB weld that I'm going to coat the area with, and then I'm going to polish it using my lathe and some fine emery paper. The pits are not that deep, so there's a chance they may polish out without the JB weld.
#13
Originally Posted by InternetRoadkill
If it's anything like the wheel bearings on the rear axle, you're going to need a good bearing splitter and a press of at least 15 tons.
The setup is nearly the same as the rear axle. To change it, you just need to remove the snap ring and place the bearing splitter under the bearing and press like crazy. You're probably going to destroy the dust shield in the process. So when you replace the bearing, be sure to use a new dust shield and a new snap ring. The new bearing will need to be pressed on with a suitable spacer underneath to support it while pressing. Don't use the outer race as a press surface when installing.
The setup is nearly the same as the rear axle. To change it, you just need to remove the snap ring and place the bearing splitter under the bearing and press like crazy. You're probably going to destroy the dust shield in the process. So when you replace the bearing, be sure to use a new dust shield and a new snap ring. The new bearing will need to be pressed on with a suitable spacer underneath to support it while pressing. Don't use the outer race as a press surface when installing.
#15
Originally Posted by Flamedx4
The whole thing.
Already lubed, with boots etc.
Like this:
Already lubed, with boots etc.
Like this:
The shafts that you are describing, can I install myself? Is it easy to replace and require any special tools?
How much will it cost at stealership with OEM parts?
TIA.
#17
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