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IFS axle shaft

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Old Jan 19, 2006 | 09:10 AM
  #1  
InternetRoadkill's Avatar
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From: San Antonio, Texas
Question IFS axle shaft

My restoration project has hit a snag. I discovered that the left axle shaft on the front IFS is pitted around where the inner seal rides. As a result, it's leaking oil into the axle tube extension and out the outer dust seal. :pat:

So now I'm looking for a replacement axle shaft. I would really like to avoid going to the dealer and getting ass raped. Is there another source for these, or does someone have a used shaft that is still in good condition (no pitting please).

88 4rnr,
2.4L,
auto,
1.1" splines
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Old Jan 19, 2006 | 09:35 AM
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Carefull with the language, but since it was in the same sentence with 'dealer' I understand completely...

I paid $66 each for complete assemblies ready to install, lifetime warranty from Carquest.
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Old Jan 19, 2006 | 09:40 AM
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$66 for the axle shaft or the CV assembly? I need the axle.
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Old Jan 19, 2006 | 10:24 AM
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The whole thing.
Already lubed, with boots etc.
Like this:
Attached Thumbnails IFS axle shaft-cvaxleassemblies.jpg  
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Old Jan 19, 2006 | 10:41 AM
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Thanks for trying, but that's the wrong item. I need the left stub shaft that the CV half shaft bolts to.
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Old Jan 19, 2006 | 05:11 PM
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You mean the side shaft? (yellow in this diagram)
Do you have ADD or no?
Someone doing SAS should have one laying around. Check over in the Classifeds.
Attached Thumbnails IFS axle shaft-sideshaft.jpg  
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Old Jan 19, 2006 | 06:36 PM
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Yes, I mean the side shaft. The FSM calls it the 'side gear shaft'. I always knew it as the stub shaft.

The problem I've run into is that the previous owner never used the 4 wheel drive mode, so the oil and grease didn't get splashed on the parts inside the diff. As a result, condensation which formed inside the diff has caused rust pitting on the surface where the oil seal rides which is causing it to leak.

The dealer wants $320 for a new shaft. Not going to happen. What I'm doing now is I'm going to chuck the shaft up in my lathe and polish the seal surface to see if I can get it smooth enough to seal properly again.

As a fallback position, I'm hoping that someone who's done an SAS will have an old shaft laying around they might want to get rid of.
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Old Jan 19, 2006 | 06:39 PM
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not to dash your hopes but ive been hittin up most of the SAS guys i can find looking to de ADD my 4runner. 6 months of search has yeilded squat.
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Old Jan 20, 2006 | 09:18 AM
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Question

AS a side note to this question, anyone know how difficult it is and how long it should take to change the bearing for this side gear shaft? I know a got a little bit of slop in mine.
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Old Jan 20, 2006 | 12:24 PM
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If it's anything like the wheel bearings on the rear axle, you're going to need a good bearing splitter and a press of at least 15 tons.

The setup is nearly the same as the rear axle. To change it, you just need to remove the snap ring and place the bearing splitter under the bearing and press like crazy. You're probably going to destroy the dust shield in the process. So when you replace the bearing, be sure to use a new dust shield and a new snap ring. The new bearing will need to be pressed on with a suitable spacer underneath to support it while pressing. Don't use the outer race as a press surface when installing.
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Old Jan 20, 2006 | 12:33 PM
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I wonder if smearing some epoxy glue into the pitted area and fine/wetsanding it smooth would make a smooth enough, sealable surface?
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Old Jan 20, 2006 | 02:05 PM
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That's what I'm going to try this weekend. I have some JB weld that I'm going to coat the area with, and then I'm going to polish it using my lathe and some fine emery paper. The pits are not that deep, so there's a chance they may polish out without the JB weld.
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Old Jan 20, 2006 | 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by InternetRoadkill
If it's anything like the wheel bearings on the rear axle, you're going to need a good bearing splitter and a press of at least 15 tons.

The setup is nearly the same as the rear axle. To change it, you just need to remove the snap ring and place the bearing splitter under the bearing and press like crazy. You're probably going to destroy the dust shield in the process. So when you replace the bearing, be sure to use a new dust shield and a new snap ring. The new bearing will need to be pressed on with a suitable spacer underneath to support it while pressing. Don't use the outer race as a press surface when installing.
Thanks for the info.
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Old Feb 9, 2006 | 06:06 PM
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Did this ever work out?
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Old May 23, 2006 | 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Flamedx4
The whole thing.
Already lubed, with boots etc.
Like this:
I think my '94 4runner 194,000 miles V6 SR5 4x4 is making loud ticking noise when in 4x4 mode and steep turning. I think think the half shafts are broken or something.

The shafts that you are describing, can I install myself? Is it easy to replace and require any special tools?

How much will it cost at stealership with OEM parts?

TIA.
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Old May 23, 2006 | 11:29 AM
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sounds like the CVs are just clicking, rebuild or replace. search CV removal for all the goodness
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Old May 23, 2006 | 04:08 PM
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From: marlbank, canada
this might help out:

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...18frontdri.pdf

lee
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Old May 23, 2006 | 05:54 PM
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Try Pirate 4x4 if you can't fix it. About 96% of the Toyota guys run straight axles. Someone sent me all the torsion bar hardware for the price of the shipping.

They just trash the stuff.

Roy
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