Spare tire lift - part 1 complete, need HELP with part 2!
#1
Spare tire lift - part 1 complete, need HELP with part 2!
I could not lower the spare from under the truck - 12 yrs of Ohio winter salt I guess took its toll! I searched and got a lot of ideas how to get the tire out so I could get to the lift mechanism.
Part 1: Get the tire out of there so you can work on the lift mechanism:
What I ended up doing was jack a 2x4 across the tire to add a little pressure then let out the air. Jack it up some more which will allow a VERY LITTLE amount of play in the holder. Pry it out of one of the lug nut holes and try and get it to one side of the hub hole in the rim. Some posts said you could get enough slack to weasel the holder loose - all I could do was get it to one side. Sawzall the cable with an 18tpi blade. Let the jack down with the now free tire.
Part 2: Get the old lift mechanism out.
There are two kinds of lifts - one where you angle the bar towards the driver's side (uses a cable to lift the tire), and another where you go straight in (uses a chain to lift the tire). Mine is the angled/cable type. The first thing I did was get the shaft that connects the gear box to the lift out. It is secured with bolts on each end. 7mm nut and then beat/pry the bolt out.
OK - here's where I'm stuck. Next step is to get the old pieces out. They are bolted from the top with what appear to be captive square nuts on the bottom. It is VERY tight up on top , I can't get a socket on it, just an end wrench, and there is little swing to get a cheater or anything on it. Any ideas? Time for the blue wrench (torch)?
The new lift is the straight in kind (got for $0 from a guy at work!). I am rather encouraged, because it's the gearbox off to the side that is rusted solid, not the lift itself - it actually runs relatively smoothly.
I assume the parts that hang down will have to be removed also for me to fit a bigger tire under there. Anyone put a 33x10.50 under a 2nd gen?
Pix attached, 'cuz I know you'd ask! LOL (Also, it will show how lucky you guys who don't have salt are)
Part 1: Get the tire out of there so you can work on the lift mechanism:
What I ended up doing was jack a 2x4 across the tire to add a little pressure then let out the air. Jack it up some more which will allow a VERY LITTLE amount of play in the holder. Pry it out of one of the lug nut holes and try and get it to one side of the hub hole in the rim. Some posts said you could get enough slack to weasel the holder loose - all I could do was get it to one side. Sawzall the cable with an 18tpi blade. Let the jack down with the now free tire.
Part 2: Get the old lift mechanism out.
There are two kinds of lifts - one where you angle the bar towards the driver's side (uses a cable to lift the tire), and another where you go straight in (uses a chain to lift the tire). Mine is the angled/cable type. The first thing I did was get the shaft that connects the gear box to the lift out. It is secured with bolts on each end. 7mm nut and then beat/pry the bolt out.
OK - here's where I'm stuck. Next step is to get the old pieces out. They are bolted from the top with what appear to be captive square nuts on the bottom. It is VERY tight up on top , I can't get a socket on it, just an end wrench, and there is little swing to get a cheater or anything on it. Any ideas? Time for the blue wrench (torch)?
The new lift is the straight in kind (got for $0 from a guy at work!). I am rather encouraged, because it's the gearbox off to the side that is rusted solid, not the lift itself - it actually runs relatively smoothly.
I assume the parts that hang down will have to be removed also for me to fit a bigger tire under there. Anyone put a 33x10.50 under a 2nd gen?
Pix attached, 'cuz I know you'd ask! LOL (Also, it will show how lucky you guys who don't have salt are)
#2
Registered User
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 3,291
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From: 100 miles offshore as much as possible, & Springfield Oregon USA
Ouch. Salt sucks.
No help here, just showin support.
Mine worked fine, and when I removed it (it's essentially useless with 35s and a body lift) it came right out, no rust whatsomeever. I had plenty of room above for wrenches because of the body lift.
No help here, just showin support.
Mine worked fine, and when I removed it (it's essentially useless with 35s and a body lift) it came right out, no rust whatsomeever. I had plenty of room above for wrenches because of the body lift.
#4
Thanks for the support fellas...
I was thinking - since I'm going from the "back" side, what if I took a drill bit and tried to spin the screw out like using an easy-out?
I was thinking - since I'm going from the "back" side, what if I took a drill bit and tried to spin the screw out like using an easy-out?
Last edited by tc; Dec 31, 2005 at 02:36 PM.
#6
Drilling them out worked like a charm. Started with a small bit, and worked up to a 3/8". They don't appear to be hardened bolts - drilled pretty easy. Highly recommend a face mask - hot metal chips will be raining down on you!
#7
had the same problem, but didn't want it under there any more
(94 runner in massachusetts) so i teach drafting at a tech and had the
kids in welding make me a tire carrier w/ some old parts i had hanging around.
had an extra hitch, took out the ball and bolted the carrier to it. tilts down
to get the tailgate down. and this is temp since i'm going to have a swing out
one made attached to the bumper.
woody
(94 runner in massachusetts) so i teach drafting at a tech and had the
kids in welding make me a tire carrier w/ some old parts i had hanging around.
had an extra hitch, took out the ball and bolted the carrier to it. tilts down
to get the tailgate down. and this is temp since i'm going to have a swing out
one made attached to the bumper.
woody
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