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NEED CAR audio experts with head unit please

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Old Jun 16, 2005 | 11:59 PM
  #1  
yongxing's Avatar
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NEED CAR audio experts with head unit please

Need help with connecting head unit with harness.

I had a pioneer head unit but it did not have these clear wraps aroudn them, but I guess Alpine does and this is how it looks like.



Only those four ^^^^ look like that , but the rest look like this ( the second pic is a harness by the way VVVVVV)



I am trying to connect those together, how do I do it? I have connected the rest, you can see in the pic.



and there is a fourth wire, the black one with the weird shape. How do I connect that one? Thanks guys, bye
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Old Jun 17, 2005 | 12:41 AM
  #2  
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Leave illumination alone you wont need it. I think the blue wire is attenna signal im not sure but it wouldnt hurt not having it connected. The black wire is most likely ground. So ground it to chassis.
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Old Jun 17, 2005 | 01:11 AM
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The power antenna turn-on wire connects with a blade that slides in, the other with bullets, you can get them at radioshack, sound shop, autozone. Or you can just cut them off and splice them. Make sure you're doing more than twisting and taping, trust me it'll come apart. The big black thing it the antenna hook up. Your stock antenna connection should be back in the dash, you can tell they fit together.
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Old Jun 17, 2005 | 05:41 AM
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No offense, but you should have figured out what the universal industry standard is for each and every color is before attempting an install.

Also I cant tell from the pics but those wires need to be soldered. When ya solder it correctly the droplets of molten solder will suddenly be absorbed into the wire. If it doesnt do that you run the risk of having a cold joint....

Yellow - constant 12v
Red - accessory turn on 12v
Black - ground
Pink - cell phone interrupt (IN INT)
Blue - power amp turn on
Blue/White - power antenna turn on
Orange - Illumination
Orange/White - Dimmer (I could have these mixed up as we never hook them up)

Then you have your speakers leads
Green - left rear positive
Green/Black - left rear negative
Violet - right rear positive
Violet/Black - right rear negative
White - left front positive
White/Black - left front negative
Gray - right front positive
Gray/Black - right front negative
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Old Jun 17, 2005 | 06:22 AM
  #5  
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Ahhh... cold joints to go with my cold beer!!! good times.
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Old Jun 17, 2005 | 08:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Bumpin' Yota
No offense, but you should have figured out what the universal industry standard is for each and every color is before attempting an install.

Also I cant tell from the pics but those wires need to be soldered. When ya solder it correctly the droplets of molten solder will suddenly be absorbed into the wire. If it doesnt do that you run the risk of having a cold joint....

Yellow - constant 12v
Red - accessory turn on 12v
Black - ground
Pink - cell phone interrupt (IN INT)
Blue - power amp turn on
Blue/White - power antenna turn on
Orange - Illumination
Orange/White - Dimmer (I could have these mixed up as we never hook them up)

Then you have your speakers leads
Green - left rear positive
Green/Black - left rear negative
Violet - right rear positive
Violet/Black - right rear negative
White - left front positive
White/Black - left front negative
Gray - right front positive
Gray/Black - right front negative
Might I suggest the new "cold heat", cordless soldering iron put out by "Coleman"(I think) for all of your stereo soldering needs?
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Old Jun 17, 2005 | 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by 94x4
Might I suggest the new "cold heat", cordless soldering iron put out by "Coleman"(I think) for all of your stereo soldering needs?
Does that really work? I always thought it was a cool looking tool, but was never tempted to shell out the $20 they want for it.

To the original poster, do you live in Houston? I just saw this post on www.houston-imports.com. If you need help, PM me here or there. I use the same sn on both forums.

Oh yeah, I hope you are using a wiring harness for your car. If you are splicing up your factory harness, good luck.
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Old Jun 17, 2005 | 08:57 AM
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Yes, it does, amazingly so! You just have to be real careful with the tip & apply it gingerly as it is pretty fragile & does'nt require pressure to activate, only contact.

Last edited by 94x4; Jun 18, 2005 at 09:29 PM.
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Old Jun 17, 2005 | 09:46 AM
  #9  
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how much are crimps and are they easy to use?
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Old Jun 17, 2005 | 11:26 AM
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thank guys, i just put it in and left those 4 wires untouched and the back and front speakers and tweeters all work. is there anything that can go wrong if i dont put in ground wire?
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Old Jun 17, 2005 | 11:36 AM
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Yes, things can go wrong. You definately want to ground your head unit.
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Old Jun 17, 2005 | 01:14 PM
  #12  
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Rtfm Rtfm Rtfm

Last edited by Bob_98SR5; Jun 17, 2005 at 01:24 PM.
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Old Jun 17, 2005 | 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by NisAznMonk
Does that really work? I always thought it was a cool looking tool, but was never tempted to shell out the $20 they want for it.

To the original poster, do you live in Houston? I just saw this post on www.houston-imports.com. If you need help, PM me here or there. I use the same sn on both forums.

Oh yeah, I hope you are using a wiring harness for your car. If you are splicing up your factory harness, good luck.
those plastic thigns are solderless crimps..but they suck so just solder the connections.


btw those coldheat soldering pens blow ass...they work for about 60min than crap out..

save your money and buy a nice cordless
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Old Jun 17, 2005 | 08:25 PM
  #14  
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what if it is temporary? Is a crimp a tool ? what is it? How much do they cost? Please let me know. THanks bye
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Old Jun 18, 2005 | 04:10 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by yongxing
thank guys, i just put it in and left those 4 wires untouched and the back and front speakers and tweeters all work. is there anything that can go wrong if i dont put in ground wire?
Glad ya got it working!

However you will want to ground that black wire, and frankly, I'm surprised the deck even turns on without it being grounded. (I bet it's using the coaxial antenna shield to ground...)

Also be sure to use electrical tape to insulated those 4 wires from each other and lastly please please please please do not use those infernal crimp connectors - they can and do break off after about a year or so and I speak from experience on this one. Besides soldering is FUN!

PS - the cold heat thing doesnt really impress me. My 150 watt soldering iron makes quick work of most soldering jobs.
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Old Jun 18, 2005 | 08:31 AM
  #16  
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I think the black wire he's talking about is the big antenna or cd changer hookup. The reciever wouldn't turn on ungrounded.
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Old Jun 18, 2005 | 04:28 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by 4x4runner
I think the black wire he's talking about is the big antenna or cd changer hookup. The reciever wouldn't turn on ungrounded.

no im talking about the one that is "U" shaped, its in the second and third pic
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Old Jun 18, 2005 | 08:42 PM
  #18  
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yeah that is without a doubt the ground. There is only ONE black wire eminating from the back of an aftermarket deck and that's the ground. Industry standard. The other wire off the ass end of the alpine is the antenna input.

And yes a deck will indeed turn on without the ground wire connected IF the antenna shield is also grounded to chassis of the vehcile, however i do NOT recommend doing that....

I have been doing this as a hobby for 4 years, and now I do this for a job...until I get into pharmacy school!

Last edited by Bumpin' Yota; Jun 18, 2005 at 08:54 PM.
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Old Jun 18, 2005 | 09:39 PM
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Sorry you had such a poor experience with it "89macrunner".
I've used mine on eight different stereo installs, various electronic component repairs (e.g., VCR, CD player, boom box & the like) & even resoldiered the contacts on my alarm remote.
Maybe it's a "user error" issue ???
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Old Jul 2, 2005 | 06:38 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by 94x4
Sorry you had such a poor experience with it "89macrunner".
I've used mine on eight different stereo installs, various electronic component repairs (e.g., VCR, CD player, boom box & the like) & even resoldiered the contacts on my alarm remote.
Maybe it's a "user error" issue ???
nah i solder a lot and if you use it a lot...which ull notice soon it will just crap out on you
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