Well, I've only driven the rig (89 runner) for a few months & looks like she's sprung a leak. Too bad, this Runner must have never had any major leaks in it's life cause when I bought it the underside was spotless- like to good to be true spotless- anyway, picked up some UV dye & light -worked awesome!- & found the culprit, the right side cam seal.

I've searched threads off & on the last couple nights & my eyes are crossed & I almost feel

Any tricks to removal & install cam seals....my FSM's aren't here yet.
I'm gonna try air impact or just make my own "F" shaped tool for holding pulley, but I'm wondering if a flat screw driver or hooked scratch awl will carefully yank one out??

Also picked up the many tips on checking /replacing:
Timing Belt - it's got more cracks than...
Crank seal -or what ever seal is behind the crank pulley- is this about the same as cam seal on replacement? read all about the bolt removal here too - 181 ft-lbs?! DANG!! - might make a tool for this too if no one has a hd strap wrench...
Water pump (& gasket)
Idlers (any trick to getting the #2 off?)
Thermostat (& gasket)
Tensioner ?? do the expansion springs ever get weak????

SOOO, what causes a cam seal to blow?? could the PCV be toast/plugged & causing too much internal pressure? I noticed my valve covers were starting to sweat a bit so I gave the bolts a once over. Might try weaseling that thing out & doing the PCV mod....

Planning a trip to NC in a few weeks- so kinda glad this happened now rather than on the road!!

Thanks for any help/advice....

 

I tried taking off the cam pulleys the same way I did the crank bolt/pulley (which btw was right at the edge of my strength to do using a 2' breaker bar and chain wrench). No cigar on the cam pulleys. So I had TONS of fun swapping out the #2 idler! (the one with the water inlet for the engine)....

I did see someone use a large steel bar that has slots in it and they anchored 2 very large bolts in it and used that to hold the pully still. (This large steel bar was about 8' long....LOL)

 

8' long....oh great...not what i wanted to hear! lol!! better eat me spinach before i try this!! 8' bar <shaking head> these cam bolts are torqued to 80 ftlbs right?! wtf?!

So no dice on using a strap wrench on the cam pulleys, 10-4!

Thanks

 

I replaced my cam seals a few years ago, not too hard. To get the pulleys off I used an impact gun and held them in place with the old timing belt and a large pipe wrench. Probably not recommended but it worked.

The crank bolt comes out with an impact also, or another method which I found easier is get a 2 ft breaker bar with the correct deep socket. Put the socket on the bolt and put the end of the bar under the passenger side frame rail. Disconnect the ignition and bump the starter. A couple of seconds is enough.

As for the seals the easiest way to get them out is screw a small screw into the seal and pull that with pliers.

I think the idler comes off easy after you remove all the rear timing covers, but definitely replace the top one. I asked the parts guy at the dealer about the tensioner and he said they never replace them, so I just used the old one.

And don't ever reuse the timing belt, even if it didn't have cracks. Saving $50 bucks that way just isn't worth it.

Another Eric

 

Be carefull to not goof up the timing

 

messing up the timing is the obvious problem...so if the cam pulley moves CW or CCW -which I'm sure it will when wrestling w/ it - can't I just rotate it back to the mark??

Thanks for the insight guys! Anything else?!
Off to the stealership @ lunch time...

Thanks again!

 

i actually made a tool using a 2x6 and 2 long bolts. drilled 3 holes - 2 for bolts, one for the wrench. the one for the wrench was offest so the 2 bolts would both lock a spoke of the gear. had someone hold this locker while i used a 3' breaker bar to pop the bolts

 

Yes, just make sure you get them back to the correct marks and it'll be OK. The 3.0 is a non-interference engine so turning the cams won't do any harm.

 

cool. thanks for the help guys, confidence is back on my side!

ordered all my parts & it wasn't as bad as I thought it would be.
Timing belt, both cam seals, crank (aka oil pump seal) seal, water pump & gasket, #2 idler, thermostat & gasket, PCV & grommet, & a plastic anti rattle clip for the tailgate....minus a 10% discount...all for $253.49! I didn't think that was tooo bad!

Thanks again!
Cheers!