any one tried it or herd of it ? I havn't researched it any yet but i was thinking about it the other day.

The thing that interests me is they had an option for a front e locker if im correct...

it would be sweet to find one of thos axels with a e locker in it to use on my 3rd gen.

 

Do you know what side diff an 80 front has?

Do you know what side output your t-case is?

It is pretty common for Tacos since the 63" front matches well with the ~61" rear, but there is a hitch.

Complete 80 fronts with e-lockers are hard to find and expensive, at least around here.

 

havn't done any looking around but im sure i could find one evuntly.

 

you'd better do some more homework before you waste all that time searching.

Dana 44 Waggy w/ an ARB is your best bet.

 

FZJ 80 pumpkins are on the passenger side, as with most other cruisers. I saw a rare find a year back at a junk yard, 1963 FJ with a CENTERED differential. that was cool

 

Get a Marlin and use that axle.

Or think about the behind the axle stock crossover combined with limited and spendy steering arm options. Then go build a Front Range housing.

Good thing I have a short memory and have looked passed the name calling since I have some info here, eh?

 

exactly what "info" have you givin that the average person wouldn't know / ask ? Do you have an exact expereince with a FJ axle ? no ? oh ok....

 

flyg is trying to help you and yes, he does know more than the average person. If I were you, I'd listen to him carefully.

 

Sorry for providing anything of note.

I did not spend the better part of today sitting on one measuring link geometry of the last 6 weeks taking one apart. I am a web wheeler.

Do you know the answers to the questions I posed?

Would you like to bet that neither an 80 front nor a 44 will be serving duty as your front end in the next 12 months?

 

I very much would. I accept paypal. Whats your wager ?

 

Passanger side.

Driver side, un fourtantly.

I have one located, still on the truck with the locking diff option.....



As for weither or not it will be the FJ axle, or a D44, I would say a 44 will be more economical and easier to setup.

For a locker, it will probably just be a simple lockrite with manual hubs. I do not see the point is spending the amount of money required on a front ARB and setup... Ill also go with some FZJ coils in the rear, and hopfully be able to get about 5 inchs over stock front/rear. I plan on running 35s with out any bodylift or excessive cutting. I'll be regearing at the same time, along with my S/Cer install.

And just so you fylg, the truck goes on jack stands after SE4RJII.

You can paypal my your wager anytime you like.

 

Since you seem to be the one with the on going gripe, send me pics when it is done and I will send you 20 bucks. Despite your continual misspellings of my name, name calling and attitude, I do know something.

I said the axles are hard to find around here. That is in Colorado, I don't think you are in Colorado.

Good luck with the project. Marlin is a littl back logged, so get in the order soon.

 

I cant afford a cawler, besides why would I need/want one ? SC isnt known for its rock gardens. Also, as far as Marlin axles, if I am not mistaken, they use toyota truck front axles? I have one already, but the idea of running wheel spacers to compensate for the less wide axle doesn't interest me.

I originaly only even suggested a 80 axle because of the locker option.
I've tooled with the idea of just running a lockrite on my ifs setup, but by the time I convert it to manual hubs, im about half way to a SAS setup. Just makes more sence to drop money on parts to SAS, insted of broken IFS parts which are bound to happen.


I only called you a name once. :cry:

 

Sas will cost you alot more than putting a lockrite and a manual hub conversion.
Take your cost for the manual hub conversion and lockright multiply it by 2 or 3.

I have spent at least $2300 on my 82 SAS truck and that's just gears, lockers, long treated birfs and crossover steering and a front brake upgrade and wheel spacers. Add another $1000 for tires and rims and $179 for a bud built crossmember, $550 for a winch. Another $150 for spring hangers and hardware and I still have to spend another $75 for rear springs. Also need longer shocks $160-200 maybe a u-bolt flip kit $50 and the shock relocation for my rear axle $25. misc welding $200.
Add at least $150 for supplies like gear oil, grease, seals etc.
My project is already past at least $4500.

I still need the rear driveshaft brake kit, IFS rear axle housing and shafts a full sized spare and rim for the spare also I am sure some other stuff.

It add's up quick do you get what I am meaning?

Look at alot more than that on your truck because you still need suspension, a front drivershaft also to convert the steering over to a IFS box and weld on the frame braces for the box etc, etc.

 

perhaps you should go back and read my post again.


I mentioned by the time I spend 1200 to 1300 on manual hubs and my lockrite, im half way to a SAS.

Why spend 1300 bucks on my IFS when its eveuntly going to break ?
I could spoend the extra money now, and have a tronger more capable rig.


also, why did you do a solid axle swap on a already soild axle truck ?

 

I mean't my truck already is a SFA truck sorry should have specifyed that.
I improved the axle gearing, steering, traction and braking which all should be done to it for offroading.


As far as doing SAS on your truck go for it but I am saying things always cost way more than you think they will with your orginal estimate of the cost.

Are you using a dana44 or a toyota custom axle housing from FROR?
The FROR housing alone is like $900 because you need the drivers drop axle.

By the time you get done working on a used junkyard axle housing there are alot of little things that will add up on it like seals bearings, axle shafts, gears brakes etc. Don't ever assume these things will be good on a salvage yard axle.

Are you welding all this on yourself or having someone do it?
If not you will be adding in a couple hours in labor in welding and cutting.

Not trying to be negative about it just realistic.

 

the setup will be a D44 waggy, lockrite, and manual hubs.

all the rebuild,setup,fab work will be done by me.

I'll have to have the gears setup, and im going to look into haveing some brackets made or machined so I can run the original 4 piston caliper brakes off the runner on the D44 axle. As far as the cost, I like to beleive I can do it for less then 2500 bucks, not including selling old IFS parts and lift stuff. I'll also sell my 33s and bump up to 35s. By the time its all said and done, SAS, locked front, 35s, I think i'll still be under 3 grand. Plus, the build will be spread out over at least 3 or 4 months, so im not sweating it if I run into an extra 500 bucks some where.

 

That's cool then go for it. Are you using used waggy leafs or new?
I think JC whitney has the best price on new waggy packs. Are you going to use the ford f250 shock mounts?


I am just going to use my rear spring pack on the front with two addional leaves cut down and staggered and running boomerang shackles from bud built.
I am getting 63" chevy's for the rear from a junkyard I goto and I am getting front spring hanger from bud built.

 

im still debating on what i want to do about leafs. im considering doing the rears too if the prices arent to outragous.

 

i think he was referring to the fact that you will need a different t-case because of the front output. the logical choice being an adapter from marlin and then a gear drive t-case that has passenger side output. that is unless you have the cash for an atlas or something else in the works.