Try Bleeding brakes on 4th gen but messed up
#1
Try Bleeding brakes on 4th gen but messed up
I attemped to bleed my brakes on my 4runner but screwed it up. Wanted to get some feedback on those that have done this in the pass. Here is what I did and used.
I bought this pump from Sears
started on the right rear wheel, went to left rear, front right and then left front wheel.
Pumped the pump up to 15psi and opened the bleeding screw, waited for all the bubbles to disapear and closed it.
Once I started the rig, I noticed I still have air in the lines :cry:
Anyways long story short I can't seem to get the air out and don't know what to try next. Any feedback is appreciated.
I bought this pump from Sears
started on the right rear wheel, went to left rear, front right and then left front wheel.
Pumped the pump up to 15psi and opened the bleeding screw, waited for all the bubbles to disapear and closed it.
Once I started the rig, I noticed I still have air in the lines :cry:
Anyways long story short I can't seem to get the air out and don't know what to try next. Any feedback is appreciated.
Last edited by Biff; Mar 29, 2005 at 04:17 PM.
#2
you will always get small bubbles when bleeding with a vacuum type bleeder, the air is sucked in from the bleeder screw threads, try doing it the old fashioned way and see if you still have bubbles
#3
I'M curious
What was the reason for bleeding your brakes?
I don't really know anything about bleeding and was wondering if bleeding them ofter(even on a new vehicle) is recommended/mandatory for maximum brake performance.
THANKS
Tom
I don't really know anything about bleeding and was wondering if bleeding them ofter(even on a new vehicle) is recommended/mandatory for maximum brake performance.
THANKS
Tom
Last edited by tomrunner; Mar 30, 2005 at 04:31 PM.
#4
The main reason for bleeding is to ditch the old fluid and replace with new. The fluid gets contaminated with moisture and breaks down over time.
#5
Victor... did you add brake fluid before air got sucked back in the system? You said you noticed that there is air still in the system, does the padel go all the way down with no resistance?
I like the vacum way better, wouldnt it be less likely to damage the seals in the master cylinder (compared to the foot method)? But I never tried anything other than the traditional method.
I like the vacum way better, wouldnt it be less likely to damage the seals in the master cylinder (compared to the foot method)? But I never tried anything other than the traditional method.
#6
Originally Posted by Mad Chemist
The main reason for bleeding is to ditch the old fluid and replace with new. The fluid gets contaminated with moisture and breaks down over time.
#7
I use one of those vacuum bleeder kits. What I do is start with a qt. of fresh brake fluid, then pull 4-8 oz. out of each fitting, not really watching for bubbles per se, rather just volume. Suck out 4 oz. (my bleeder has a 4 oz. cup), dump that, top off the reservoir then pump some more fluid until it runs nice and clear. Some keys are to pull a vacuum prior to opening the bleeder and hold until you close it. Also, takes a little practice to get just the right amount of loosening, enough to let the fluid flow, but not enough to let a lot of air in. By the time you finish all 4 wheels and the LSPV, you'll pull a qt. of fresh fluid in and gotten rid of most of the old stuff. I do this evey year or two.
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