1988 3VZE 4runner long crank when outside temps are low
#1
1988 3VZE 4runner long crank when outside temps are low
Hi everyone. First post here.
As said in the title, my truck takes a while to start when temps are low outside. If it’s 6 degrees C, it will take 10 seconds of cranking. If it’s 8C or above, it will fire right up. I can leave it for a week, and if it’s warm outside, it will fire right up. Also i can drive it around and park it, and even if it’s cold outside it will start right up, as the engine will still be a bit warm.
Once the engine starts, it runs and idles fine. However a lot of smoke will ploom out for a bit, which could be fuel, or possibly oil from valve stem seals leaking overnight.
Ive replaced spark plugs, wires, and the distributor. The engine has poor compression in cylinder 6, which I believe to be a burnt valve (I have a leak down tester ordered). I will be pulling the heads and sending them out to get rebuilt once Spring comes and I can just daily my summer car.
My first suspicion was the ECT, however I tested resistance and it read fine (could still be the issue though)
Could it be the VAFM? I know there’s a temp sensor in there. But I believe if it was no good my fuel pump wouldn’t fire at all. During the cranking, it sounds like it’s definitely getting SOME fuel.
Maybe the ignition coil?
Any insight is greatly appreciated.
As said in the title, my truck takes a while to start when temps are low outside. If it’s 6 degrees C, it will take 10 seconds of cranking. If it’s 8C or above, it will fire right up. I can leave it for a week, and if it’s warm outside, it will fire right up. Also i can drive it around and park it, and even if it’s cold outside it will start right up, as the engine will still be a bit warm.
Once the engine starts, it runs and idles fine. However a lot of smoke will ploom out for a bit, which could be fuel, or possibly oil from valve stem seals leaking overnight.
Ive replaced spark plugs, wires, and the distributor. The engine has poor compression in cylinder 6, which I believe to be a burnt valve (I have a leak down tester ordered). I will be pulling the heads and sending them out to get rebuilt once Spring comes and I can just daily my summer car.
My first suspicion was the ECT, however I tested resistance and it read fine (could still be the issue though)
Could it be the VAFM? I know there’s a temp sensor in there. But I believe if it was no good my fuel pump wouldn’t fire at all. During the cranking, it sounds like it’s definitely getting SOME fuel.
Maybe the ignition coil?
Any insight is greatly appreciated.
#2
Welcome to YotaTech.
You have a Cold-Start Injector (CSI). https://web.archive.org/web/20100326...88coldstar.pdf WHEN it is cold, DURING cranking, it should admit extra fuel into the intake to help with cold starts.
First, DO NOT disconnect the fuel line from the CSI. When you do, you need to replace the two crush washers (cheaper than dirt, but I've only found them at the dealer). You don't need to do that for most testing. I would start with a multimeter on the disconnected CSI connector. When you assistant cranks, look for battery (~12v) voltage there. No voltage, suspect the CSI timer switch, tucked back behind the heads. If you get voltage, pull the CSI out of the manifold w/o disconnecting the fuel line. Stick it into a suitable connector and crank. If cold enough, you should see a spray of fuel during cranking. (Be careful - atomized gasoline!)
You have a Cold-Start Injector (CSI). https://web.archive.org/web/20100326...88coldstar.pdf WHEN it is cold, DURING cranking, it should admit extra fuel into the intake to help with cold starts.
First, DO NOT disconnect the fuel line from the CSI. When you do, you need to replace the two crush washers (cheaper than dirt, but I've only found them at the dealer). You don't need to do that for most testing. I would start with a multimeter on the disconnected CSI connector. When you assistant cranks, look for battery (~12v) voltage there. No voltage, suspect the CSI timer switch, tucked back behind the heads. If you get voltage, pull the CSI out of the manifold w/o disconnecting the fuel line. Stick it into a suitable connector and crank. If cold enough, you should see a spray of fuel during cranking. (Be careful - atomized gasoline!)
#3
Welcome to YotaTech.
You have a Cold-Start Injector (CSI). https://web.archive.org/web/20100326...88coldstar.pdf WHEN it is cold, DURING cranking, it should admit extra fuel into the intake to help with cold starts.
First, DO NOT disconnect the fuel line from the CSI. When you do, you need to replace the two crush washers (cheaper than dirt, but I've only found them at the dealer). You don't need to do that for most testing. I would start with a multimeter on the disconnected CSI connector. When you assistant cranks, look for battery (~12v) voltage there. No voltage, suspect the CSI timer switch, tucked back behind the heads. If you get voltage, pull the CSI out of the manifold w/o disconnecting the fuel line. Stick it into a suitable connector and crank. If cold enough, you should see a spray of fuel during cranking. (Be careful - atomized gasoline!)
You have a Cold-Start Injector (CSI). https://web.archive.org/web/20100326...88coldstar.pdf WHEN it is cold, DURING cranking, it should admit extra fuel into the intake to help with cold starts.
First, DO NOT disconnect the fuel line from the CSI. When you do, you need to replace the two crush washers (cheaper than dirt, but I've only found them at the dealer). You don't need to do that for most testing. I would start with a multimeter on the disconnected CSI connector. When you assistant cranks, look for battery (~12v) voltage there. No voltage, suspect the CSI timer switch, tucked back behind the heads. If you get voltage, pull the CSI out of the manifold w/o disconnecting the fuel line. Stick it into a suitable connector and crank. If cold enough, you should see a spray of fuel during cranking. (Be careful - atomized gasoline!)
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